What tool do I use to remove this kind of free wheel ?

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http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-49.jpg
http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-48.jpg

A link to an image would be useful. Or any kind of
instructions.

shadow wrote:
> http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-49.jpg http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-
> 48.jpg

Five dollar bill.

Bill "sorry Tom, couldn't resist" S.

On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:57:16 -0300, shadow <sh@dow> wrote:

>http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-49.jpg http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-
>48.jpg
>
>A link to an image would be useful. Or any kind of
>instructions.

Dear Shad,

If those are round holes machined into the gear, a pin-
wrench might be the solution, with a chain-whip to hold the
gear in place if needed.

Maybe a Park SPA-1?

Here's a picture:

le&c=Tools&sc=Bottom%20Bracket&tc=Cup%20Spanners&item_id=PA-
SPA1

The tips fit tightly in the holes. There are fiercer tools
of the same design.

Good luck,

Carl Fogel

On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 16:13:46 -0600, carlfogel@comcast.net wrote:

>On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:57:16 -0300, shadow <sh@dow> wrote:
>
>>http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-49.jpg http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-
>>48.jpg
>>
>>A link to an image would be useful. Or any kind of
>>instructions.
>
>Dear Shad,
>
>If those are round holes machined into the gear, a pin-
>wrench might be the solution, with a chain-whip to hold the
>gear in place if needed.
>
>Maybe a Park SPA-1?
>
>Here's a picture:
>
>e&c=Tools&sc=Bottom%20Bracket&tc=Cup%20Spanners&item_id=PA-
>SPA1
>
>The tips fit tightly in the holes. There are fiercer tools
>of the same design.

I might be mistaken, but I think that's the wrong approach
for this type of freewheel. The two shallow notches appear
to be the tool slots; the two-screwdriver method (also used
to semove bungs from oil drums) would be a possible place to
start. I'm pretty sure, looking at the photo closely, that
those two pin holes perform the same function on this
freewheel that the similar ones perform on a lot of other
units, i.e., they allow removal of the outer freewheel
bearing cone. I would not recommend removing it.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug. Some gardening required to
reply via email. Surrealism is a pectinated ranzel.

On Mon, 05 Jul 2004 00:52:24 GMT, Werehatrack
<rault00@earthWEEDSlink.net> wrote:

>On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 16:13:46 -0600,
>carlfogel@comcast.net wrote:
>
>>On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:57:16 -0300, shadow <sh@dow> wrote:
>>
>>>http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-49.jpg http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-
>>>48.jpg
>>>
>>>A link to an image would be useful. Or any kind of
>>>instructions.
>>
>>Dear Shad,
>>
>>If those are round holes machined into the gear, a pin-
>>wrench might be the solution, with a chain-whip to hold
>>the gear in place if needed.
>>
>>Maybe a Park SPA-1?
>>
>>Here's a picture:
>>
>>&c=Tools&sc=Bottom%20Bracket&tc=Cup%20Spanners&item_id=PA-
>>SPA1
>>
>>The tips fit tightly in the holes. There are fiercer tools
>>of the same design.
>
>I might be mistaken, but I think that's the wrong approach
>for this type of freewheel. The two shallow notches appear
>to be the tool slots; the two-screwdriver method (also used
>to semove bungs from oil drums) would be a possible place
>to start. I'm pretty sure, looking at the photo closely,
>that those two pin holes perform the same function on this
>freewheel that the similar ones perform on a lot of other
>units, i.e., they allow removal of the outer freewheel
>bearing cone. I would not recommend removing it.

Dear Shad and Werehatrack,

I'd listen to Werehatrack--he knows more.

Carl Fogel

In article <uu2ge0la7b1fu5iffk96aotp5mc1p2f8gh@4ax.com>,
shadow <sh@dow> wrote:

> http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-49.jpg http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-
> 48.jpg
>
> A link to an image would be useful. Or any kind of
> instructions.

Looks like that takes a pretty conventional two-prong
remover.

Park's list of cassette freewheel removers. I think you
need the FR-2:

http://www.parktool.com/tool_indexes/catindex_fr.shtml

They have guides linked to each tool on correct usage. The
right way to do this is to use the wheel's skewer to hold
the removal tool in place, then put the remover's flats into
a bench vise, and turn the wheel.

If you only plan to remove this type of freewheel once, it
can be happily left to the local bike shop for a very small
fee (probably $5). Most of the time, this is a fairly
straightforward job. The rest of the time, you don't want to
be the guy who broke your wheel :).

-RjC.

--
Ryan Cousineau, rcousine@sfu.ca
http://www.sfu.ca/~rcousine/wiredcola/ President, Fabrizio
Mazzoleni Fan Club

On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:57:16 -0300, shadow <sh@dow> wrote:

>http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-49.jpg http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-
>48.jpg
>
>A link to an image would be useful. Or any kind of
>instructions.

Maybe one from this list:ools&sc=Freehubs%20and%20Freewheels&tc=Freewheel%20Removers-
Notched or http://tinyurl.com/3b7us

Most likely one like this:ools&sc=Freehubs%20and%20Freewheels&tc=Freewheel%20Removers-
Notched&item_id=ST-TA101 or http://tinyurl.com/2qx4f

shadow wrote:
> http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-49.jpg http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-
> 48.jpg A link to an image would be useful. Or any kind of
> instructions.

That is a single speed freewheel. Before Suntour developed
the modern 4-notch "EZOff" system, your style was the
standard. You need a "classic single freewheel tool"

In some cases even your small notches are omitted. For those
the freewheel must be destroyed for removal.

These are not commonly removed. You can rebuild the hub with
the freewheel in place for example. Replacement spokes slide
past many of these too.

A quick perusal of catalogs shows no one selling classic
single removers, so you might want to make friends with a
doddering grey mechanic in your area who has one. (I'm sure
they can be found, just not at the big parts houses.)

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971

> On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:57:16 -0300, shadow <sh@dow> wrote:
>>http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-49.jpg http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-
>>48.jpg A link to an image would be useful. Or any kind of
>>instructions.

carlfogel@comcast.net wrote:
> If those are round holes machined into the gear, a pin-
> wrench might be the solution, with a chain-whip to hold
> the gear in place if needed. Maybe a Park SPA-1? Here's a
> picture:&c=Tools&sc=Bottom%20Bracket&tc=Cup%20Spanners&item_id=PA-
> SPA1 The tips fit tightly in the holes. There are fiercer
> tools of the same design.

Those teeny depressions are used with a punch to
dissassemble a freewheel. The cover plate is reverse
threaded if you are so inclined.

The cover plate is driven home firmly such that a pin wrench
won't budge it. Bearing adjustment is done by substituting
shims under the cover plate, similar to a Jaguar V12 valve
train and about as much fun.
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971

> In article <uu2ge0la7b1fu5iffk96aotp5mc1p2f8gh@4ax.com>,
> shadow <sh@dow> wrote:
>>http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-49.jpg http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-
>>48.jpg A link to an image would be useful. Or any kind of
>>instructions.

Ryan Cousineau wrote:
> Looks like that takes a pretty conventional two-prong
> remover. Park's list of cassette freewheel removers. I
> think you need the FR-2:
> http://www.parktool.com/tool_indexes/catindex_fr.shtml
> They have guides linked to each tool on correct usage. The
> right way to do this is to use the wheel's skewer to hold
> the removal tool in place, then put the remover's flats
> into a bench vise, and turn the wheel. If you only plan to
> remove this type of freewheel once, it can be happily left
> to the local bike shop for a very small fee (probably $5).
> Most of the time, this is a fairly straightforward job.
> The rest of the time, you don't want to be the guy who
> broke your wheel :).

That's a good technique with an older Suntour freewheel and
the aftermarket tool FR-2. That system is 25mm diameter with
6mm notches.

His classic single is 35mm across with 3mm notches.
Different tool, same technique (usually found with solid
axles so use an axle nut, not a skewer)

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971

dianne_1234 wrote:
> Most likely one like this:ls&sc=Freehubs%20and%20Freewheels&tc=Freewheel%20Removers-
> Notched&item_id=ST-TA101 or http://tinyurl.com/2qx4f

Yes, that's it! Hard to find nowadays.

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971

In article <10ehr51eh4rjnf8@corp.supernews.com>,
A Muzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:

> dianne_1234 wrote:
> > Most likely one like this:

> > or http://tinyurl.com/2qx4f
>
> Yes, that's it! Hard to find nowadays.

Hey, you learn something new every day.

Now for the scary part: I actually own that tool. I just
didn't know what it was for. This is what happens when you
make a windfall acquisition of bike tools.

Also have a headset press, no idea when I'll use that,
--
Ryan Cousineau, rcousine@sfu.ca
http://www.sfu.ca/~rcousine/wiredcola/ President, Fabrizio
Mazzoleni Fan Club

On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 20:56:11 -0500, dianne_1234
<dianne_1234@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:

>On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:57:16 -0300, shadow <sh@dow> wrote:
>
>>http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-49.jpg http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-
>>48.jpg
>>
>>A link to an image would be useful. Or any kind of
>>instructions.

>Most likely one like this:ols&sc=Freehubs%20and%20Freewheels&tc=Freewheel%20Removers-
>Notched&item_id=ST-TA101 or http://tinyurl.com/2qx4f

Looks very much like it :) QUOTE Item #ST-TA101: .An
oldie, but a goodie! One side has a 2-notch, multi-
speed freewheel removal tool. The other side has a
two-layer, 2-notched BMX freewheel remover. Each
layer is a different outer diameter; one is 28.8mm &
the other is 33.1mm. No tool fits the old 2 notched
BMX freewheels better (MF-1000, FS-1500 & others).
We found a batch of these hard-to-find tools. END
QUOTE My thread is closer to 34-36 mm though.
Wondering if it wont fall a bit short of the
notches. Here are more images
http://www.jindalind.com/jindalfine/freewheels.html
http://www.jindalind.com/jindalfine/freewheels01.ht-
ml They seem to be pretty popular in the east.

On Mon, 05 Jul 2004 00:50:11 -0500, A Muzi <am@yellowjersey.org>
wrote:

>> In article <uu2ge0la7b1fu5iffk96aotp5mc1p2f8gh@4ax.com>,
>> shadow <sh@dow> wrote:
>>>http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-49.jpg http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-
>>>48.jpg A link to an image would be useful. Or any kind of
>>>instructions.
>
>Ryan Cousineau wrote:
>> Looks like that takes a pretty conventional two-prong
>> remover. Park's list of cassette freewheel removers. I
>> think you need the FR-2:
>> http://www.parktool.com/tool_indexes/catindex_fr.shtml
>> They have guides linked to each tool on correct usage.
>> The right way to do this is to use the wheel's skewer to
>> hold the removal tool in place, then put the remover's
>> flats into a bench vise, and turn the wheel. If you only
>> plan to remove this type of freewheel once, it can be
>> happily left to the local bike shop for a very small fee
>> (probably $5). Most of the time, this is a fairly
>> straightforward job. The rest of the time, you don't want
>> to be the guy who broke your wheel :).
>
>That's a good technique with an older Suntour freewheel and
>the aftermarket tool FR-2. That system is 25mm diameter
>with 6mm notches.
>
>His classic single is 35mm across with 3mm notches.
>Different tool, same technique (usually found with solid
>axles so use an axle nut, not a skewer)
Yes, 35 mm notch to notch, notch is between 3 and 4
mm wide (I do not have a gauge, used a ruler). The
freewheel is a 20 cog shimano, and is marked:
SHIMANO 333 FREE WHEEL NO 4531 MADE IN JAPAN Its an
old bike (circa 1975), and I wanted to maintain it
as "original" as possible. Would you recommend I
destructively remove the shimano, and buy one like
the one in the picture, or buy something with more
conventional slots ? (Would a more conventional free
wheel use the same thread ?)

S o r n i <sorni@bite-me.san.rr.com> wrote:
> shadow wrote:
>> http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-49.jpg http://www.samraexports.com/imgs/sif-
>> 48.jpg
>
> Five dollar bill.
>
> Bill "sorry Tom, couldn't resist" S.

If you hadn't said it, I would have been forced to.

Tom

enetr the shade tree mechanic:

ahewm. take the wheel apart. place the hub on a 2x6 chunk
againts another pice resting against a solid wall(masonary,
steel something, your naybors dog from the looks of it.
place an engineer's 11 pound hammer on the ground with a
long enough metal chisel. heat the freewheel cover or back
cog area and insides with a propane torch till it smokes.
then slam the cover with the chisel and hammer in the
correct direction, that's crucial. or bang on a suitable
area either around the cover or between the cogs. place in a
vise and try to wrench off. it helps to soak the unit in
paint thinner for two-three weeks(or months) before goin at
it one assumes the hub is wanted, or both which gives
different approachs. the assembly the cogs ride on, like the
cover, is made of strong steel: indestructible. soak heat
and bash then twist.

g.daniels wrote:

> enetr the shade tree mechanic:
>
> ahewm. take the wheel apart. place the hub on a 2x6 chunk
> againts another pice resting against a solid
> wall(masonary, steel something, your naybors dog from the
> looks of it. place an engineer's 11 pound hammer on the
> ground with a long enough metal chisel. heat the freewheel
> cover or back cog area and insides with a propane torch
> till it smokes. then slam the cover with the chisel and
> hammer in the correct direction, that's crucial. or bang
> on a suitable area either around the cover or between the
> cogs. place in a vise and try to wrench off. it helps to
> soak the unit in paint thinner for two-three weeks(or
> months) before goin at it one assumes the hub is wanted,
> or both which gives different approachs. the assembly the
> cogs ride on, like the cover, is made of strong steel:
> indestructible. soak heat and bash then twist.

And if this procedure fails to dislodge the freewheel, the
following tool is recommended:
<http://www.fdungan.com/mk39.gif> (http://www.fdungan.com/mk39.gif).

--
Tom Sherman – Quad City Area

Tom Sherman wrote:
>> And if this procedure fails to dislodge the freewheel,
>> the following
> tool is recommended: <http://www.fdungan.com/mk39.gif> (http://www.fdungan.com/mk39.gif).

Misleading.

Bill "and you know it" S.

S o r n i wrote:

> Tom Sherman wrote:
>
>>>And if this procedure fails to dislodge the freewheel,
>>>the following
>>
>>tool is recommended: <http://www.fdungan.com/mk39.gif> (http://www.fdungan.com/mk39.gif).
>
>
> Misleading.
>
> Bill "and you know it" S.

I defy anyone who to find a freewheel which would still be
attached to the hub after using the MK 39 on it.

--
Tom Sherman – Quad City Area

Tom Sherman <tsherman@qconline.com> wrote:
> S o r n i wrote:
>
>> Tom Sherman wrote:
>>
>>>> And if this procedure fails to dislodge the freewheel,
>>>> the following
>>>
>>> tool is recommended: <http://www.fdungan.com/mk39.gif> (http://www.fdungan.com/mk39.gif).
>>
>>
>> Misleading.
>>
>> Bill "and you know it" S.
>
> I defy anyone who to find a freewheel which would still be
> attached to the hub after using the MK 39 on it.

... and it'll probably run more than $5.

Tom (I'd shop around though)