modify, or replace?
View Full Version : modify, or replace?
im currently riding a (laugh if you must) mongoose (MGX)
D50, bought new at costco back in 98 or so. i ditched the
fattie tires and im running a pair of skinny michelins,
pumped up to 100psi. the rear shock is adjusted all the way
firm. i basically use it for bike trail use/exercise.
the problem im having is the gearing is just too low for me
now. i guess im a "gear masher", since i run the hardest
ratio all the time. front sprocket is a 41T, rear is 13T.
the valleys on the teeth of the 13 are starting to look
oval, with all the use it gets.
anyhow- ive been thinking about getting a dedicated road
bike, since its made for what i think i REALLY want to do.
after pricing front cranks/sprockets (the sprockets are
riveted to the crank), rear casettes, and stems (id like a
slightly higher lift, but the bars are ok), it comes to
about half the cost of a new bike.
and theres no guarantee the new parts will work with the
gruppo (i use that term jokingly) thats on there now.
i used to have a schwinn "world" in the mid 80s, and liked
it. well, except for the leaning on the bars, which is what
im doing now. and thats what id do if i got a road bike, i
imagine, unless i sprung for the "triathlete" style bars you
lean on. on the MGX, even with gloves on, my hands still go
numb. they did on the schwinn as well.
so i could pour some money into this department store bike
ive been happy with, buy a dedicated road bike and still
likely be uncomfortable without mods like the triathelon
handlebars, go for a recumbent for a lot more money, but
probably less speed.
what to do, what to do?
im 5'10", 200lbs, 30" inseam... any rough ideas of frame
sizes i should look for, if i go shopping for a road bike?
supergo has '03 cannondale R400s for about $550 that i saw
online, but have yet to actually go look at.
any other ideas? i REALLY dont want a $1000 bike, and ive
taken good care and got a lot of use out of the schwinn
world (RIP, years ago) and currently the MGX.
Originally posted by Socalmike
im currently riding a (laugh if you must) mongoose (MGX)
D50, bought new at costco back in 98 or so. i ditched the
fattie tires and im running a pair of skinny michelins,
pumped up to 100psi. the rear shock is adjusted all the way
firm. i basically use it for bike trail use/exercise.
the problem im having is the gearing is just too low for me
now. i guess im a "gear masher", since i run the hardest
ratio all the time. front sprocket is a 41T, rear is 13T.
the valleys on the teeth of the 13 are starting to look
oval, with all the use it gets.
anyhow- ive been thinking about getting a dedicated road
bike, since its made for what i think i REALLY want to do.
after pricing front cranks/sprockets (the sprockets are
riveted to the crank), rear casettes, and stems (id like a
slightly higher lift, but the bars are ok), it comes to
about half the cost of a new bike.
and theres no guarantee the new parts will work with the
gruppo (i use that term jokingly) thats on there now.
i used to have a schwinn "world" in the mid 80s, and liked
it. well, except for the leaning on the bars, which is what
im doing now. and thats what id do if i got a road bike, i
imagine, unless i sprung for the "triathlete" style bars you
lean on. on the MGX, even with gloves on, my hands still go
numb. they did on the schwinn as well.
so i could pour some money into this department store bike
ive been happy with, buy a dedicated road bike and still
likely be uncomfortable without mods like the triathelon
handlebars, go for a recumbent for a lot more money, but
probably less speed.
what to do, what to do?
im 5'10", 200lbs, 30" inseam... any rough ideas of frame
sizes i should look for, if i go shopping for a road bike?
supergo has '03 cannondale R400s for about $550 that i saw
online, but have yet to actually go look at.
any other ideas? i REALLY dont want a $1000 bike, and ive
taken good care and got a lot of use out of the schwinn
world (RIP, years ago) and currently the MGX.
Pick up an older used 12/10/14 speed with good condition components likely to have BB/crank compatibility with your gruppo, combine parts.
Put the road cranks/rings on the Mongoose-
11/34 Megarange freewheels are pretty reasonable in price, or if the road bike is cassette, mount the cassette wheel on your Mongoose and customize a tight high end cassette for your riding style (i.e., 11-12-13-14-17-26-34).
Pick up your aero bars for your hands and you’ve got yourself a FS road bike.
Alternatively, recumbent-yeh more expensive- but in contrast your assertion on speed, should be faster unless your in a rugged terrain and sitting back would be easier on your hands.
SoCalMike <mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<TDIHc.50665$a24.44858@attbi_s03>...
> im currently riding a (laugh if you must) mongoose (MGX)
> D50, bought new at costco back in 98 or so. i ditched the
> fattie tires and im running a pair of skinny michelins,
> pumped up to 100psi. the rear shock is adjusted all the
> way firm. i basically use it for bike trail use/exercise.
>
> the problem im having is the gearing is just too low for
> me now. i guess im a "gear masher", since i run the
> hardest ratio all the time. front sprocket is a 41T, rear
> is 13T. the valleys on the teeth of the 13 are starting to
> look oval, with all the use it gets.
>
> anyhow- ive been thinking about getting a dedicated road
> bike, since its made for what i think i REALLY want to do.
> after pricing front cranks/sprockets (the sprockets are
> riveted to the crank), rear casettes, and stems (id like a
> slightly higher lift, but the bars are ok), it comes to
> about half the cost of a new bike.
>
> and theres no guarantee the new parts will work with the
> gruppo (i use that term jokingly) thats on there now.
>
> i used to have a schwinn "world" in the mid 80s, and liked
> it. well, except for the leaning on the bars, which is
> what im doing now. and thats what id do if i got a road
> bike, i imagine, unless i sprung for the "triathlete"
> style bars you lean on. on the MGX, even with gloves on,
> my hands still go numb. they did on the schwinn as well.
>
> so i could pour some money into this department store bike
> ive been happy with, buy a dedicated road bike and still
> likely be uncomfortable without mods like the triathelon
> handlebars, go for a recumbent for a lot more money, but
> probably less speed.
>
> what to do, what to do?
>
> im 5'10", 200lbs, 30" inseam... any rough ideas of frame
> sizes i should look for, if i go shopping for a road bike?
> supergo has '03 cannondale R400s for about $550 that i saw
> online, but have yet to actually go look at.
>
> any other ideas? i REALLY dont want a $1000 bike, and ive
> taken good care and got a lot of use out of the schwinn
> world (RIP, years ago) and currently the MGX.
go to wrenchscience.com They've got a decent system to help
you with frame size etc.
As far as a new bike goes just realize you may spend
additional money after bike purchase to get the bike to fit
you right. Stock gear doesn't always cut it. Replacing parts
for you old bike should be OK but realize that it will take
patience, trial, and error to get everything adjusted and
working right. Also you may just be able to but a 53T
chainring on your current crank, maybe. Check out the
possibilities. If you can do all the maintenance
work/adjustments yourself then I'd say try and go for it but
if you must pay to have it done. Get a new bike. It will be
cheaper in the long run.
SoCalMike <mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<TDIHc.50665$a24.44858@attbi_s03>...
> im currently riding a (laugh if you must) mongoose (MGX)
> D50, bought new at costco back in 98 or so. i ditched the
> fattie tires and im running a pair of skinny michelins,
> pumped up to 100psi. the rear shock is adjusted all the
> way firm. i basically use it for bike trail use/exercise.
>
> the problem im having is the gearing is just too low for
> me now. i guess im a "gear masher", since i run the
> hardest ratio all the time. front sprocket is a 41T, rear
> is 13T. the valleys on the teeth of the 13 are starting to
> look oval, with all the use it gets.
>
> anyhow- ive been thinking about getting a dedicated road
> bike, since its made for what i think i REALLY want to do.
> after pricing front cranks/sprockets (the sprockets are
> riveted to the crank), rear casettes, and stems (id like a
> slightly higher lift, but the bars are ok), it comes to
> about half the cost of a new bike.
>
> and theres no guarantee the new parts will work with the
> gruppo (i use that term jokingly) thats on there now.
>
> i used to have a schwinn "world" in the mid 80s, and liked
> it. well, except for the leaning on the bars, which is
> what im doing now. and thats what id do if i got a road
> bike, i imagine, unless i sprung for the "triathlete"
> style bars you lean on. on the MGX, even with gloves on,
> my hands still go numb. they did on the schwinn as well.
>
> so i could pour some money into this department store bike
> ive been happy with, buy a dedicated road bike and still
> likely be uncomfortable without mods like the triathelon
> handlebars, go for a recumbent for a lot more money, but
> probably less speed.
>
> what to do, what to do?
>
> im 5'10", 200lbs, 30" inseam... any rough ideas of frame
> sizes i should look for, if i go shopping for a road bike?
> supergo has '03 cannondale R400s for about $550 that i saw
> online, but have yet to actually go look at.
>
> any other ideas? i REALLY dont want a $1000 bike, and ive
> taken good care and got a lot of use out of the schwinn
> world (RIP, years ago) and currently the MGX.
First go to wrenchscience.com The website has a really nice
section on the right fit of a bike.
Second you could put all those components on your old bike.
If you have the ability to install/adjust everything needed
to bring your old bike up to your desired specks then go for
it. If you're going to pay to have it done, forget it and go
with the new bike option unless you know for sure that the
mechanic is good and the price is right. Also, you may end
up spending more than the new bike purchase price in order
to get the right fit. Sometimes stock components aren't
tailored enough to you and thus you may have to upgrade
these to what you want.
SoCalMike <mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<TDIHc.50665$a24.44858@attbi_s03>...
> im currently riding a (laugh if you must) mongoose (MGX)
> D50, bought new at costco back in 98 or so. i ditched the
> fattie tires and im running a pair of skinny michelins,
> pumped up to 100psi. the rear shock is adjusted all the
> way firm. i basically use it for bike trail use/exercise.
>
> the problem im having is the gearing is just too low for
> me now. i guess im a "gear masher", since i run the
> hardest ratio all the time. front sprocket is a 41T, rear
> is 13T. the valleys on the teeth of the 13 are starting to
> look oval, with all the use it gets.
>
> anyhow- ive been thinking about getting a dedicated road
> bike, since its made for what i think i REALLY want to do.
> after pricing front cranks/sprockets (the sprockets are
> riveted to the crank), rear casettes, and stems (id like a
> slightly higher lift, but the bars are ok), it comes to
> about half the cost of a new bike.
>
> and theres no guarantee the new parts will work with the
> gruppo (i use that term jokingly) thats on there now.
>
> i used to have a schwinn "world" in the mid 80s, and liked
> it. well, except for the leaning on the bars, which is
> what im doing now. and thats what id do if i got a road
> bike, i imagine, unless i sprung for the "triathlete"
> style bars you lean on. on the MGX, even with gloves on,
> my hands still go numb. they did on the schwinn as well.
>
> so i could pour some money into this department store bike
> ive been happy with, buy a dedicated road bike and still
> likely be uncomfortable without mods like the triathelon
> handlebars, go for a recumbent for a lot more money, but
> probably less speed.
>
> what to do, what to do?
>
> im 5'10", 200lbs, 30" inseam... any rough ideas of frame
> sizes i should look for, if i go shopping for a road bike?
> supergo has '03 cannondale R400s for about $550 that i saw
> online, but have yet to actually go look at.
>
> any other ideas? i REALLY dont want a $1000 bike, and ive
> taken good care and got a lot of use out of the schwinn
> world (RIP, years ago) and currently the MGX.
First go to wrenchscience.com The website has a really nice
section on the right fit of a bike.
Second you could put all those components on your old bike.
If you have the ability to install/adjust everything needed
to bring your old bike up to your desired specks then go for
it. If you're going to pay to have it done, forget it and go
with the new bike option unless you know for sure that the
mechanic is good and the price is right. Also, you may end
up spending more than the new bike purchase price in order
to get the right fit. Sometimes stock components aren't
tailored enough to you and thus you may have to upgrade
these to what you want.
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