Complete New Chain Set
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I've been advised by my cycle store that if I change my cassette and chain, the chain will still slip on the crank as he reckons my crank has been silghtly worn.
This complicates matters somewhat. Looks like I'll have to change my entire chain set.
I now plan to buy a chain whip for the cassette, a tool to remove the cassette and a crank remover tool. It will be a big job, of course.
How much will it cost me to buy a new crank? Maybe I'm better ordering one from a cycle mag?
There seems to be a bit of misunderstanding. It is quite common to suggest that you change cassette and chain together... but the crank? I think your shop-guy means the chain rings, that are a bit cheaper than changing the entire crank!
I stand corrected. Any idea how much this will cost?
There seems to be a bit of misunderstanding. It is quite common to suggest that you change cassette and chain together... but the crank? I think your shop-guy means the chain rings, that are a bit cheaper than changing the entire crank!
I recently replace my 2 chainrings, chain and cogset.
FSA 50 chainring - $45
FSA 36 chainring - $27
DuraAce 9 sp chain - $25
DuraAce 9sp 12x27 cogset - $110
Total - $205+
I've been advised by my cycle store that if I change my cassette and chain, the chain will still slip on the crank as he reckons my crank has been silghtly worn.
This complicates matters somewhat. Looks like I'll have to change my entire chain set.
I now plan to buy a chain whip for the cassette, a tool to remove the cassette and a crank remover tool. It will be a big job, of course.
How much will it cost me to buy a new crank? Maybe I'm better ordering one from a cycle mag?There are ways to figure out if things are worn,rather than listening to some lame knucklehead. Do you know for a fact the casette needs replacing? How about the chain? Or are you just working off some inane mileage BS and possibly throwing money away? Assuming the chainrings aren't riveted, they can be changed indivudally.
I figure my present chain set still has some life in it so the change isn't urgent. However, my gear shifting isn't brilliant as there is some wear on the chain.
I originally intended to just replace the chain and cassette but will have to rethink this. It seems like the best thing I can do is purchase some of the tools, chain and chain set and study the mechanics.
The bike's O.K. for now but 3 mechanics have told me there is definitely some degree of wear and tear on my chain, cassette and chain set as a whole.
For now, the bike is performing O.K. so maybe I have anther 5 months or so.
There are ways to figure out if things are worn,rather than listening to some lame knucklehead. Do you know for a fact the casette needs replacing? How about the chain? Or are you just working off some inane mileage BS and possibly throwing money away? Assuming the chainrings aren't riveted, they can be changed indivudally.
I figure my present chain set still has some life in it so the change isn't urgent. However, my gear shifting isn't brilliant as there is some wear on the chain.
I originally intended to just replace the chain and cassette but will have to rethink this. It seems like the best thing I can do is purchase some of the tools, chain and chain set and study the mechanics.
The bike's O.K. for now but 3 mechanics have told me there is definitely some degree of wear and tear on my chain, cassette and chain set as a whole.
For now, the bike is performing O.K. so maybe I have anther 5 months or so.Shifting may have nothing to do with the chain,and some 'degree of wear and tear', is normal and meaningless as an indicator of when things need replacig. A cassette will last thru many chains if chains are replaced before thay get too worn.Chainwheels last thru many cassettes. Some places just like to sell people stuff. I recommmend www.parktool.com repair section as a place to get some eduction as well as Sheldon Browns stuff at www.hariacyclery.com
If your chainring is rounded on top (or starting to round on the edges) then it needs to be replaced. The same for your cassette. Now for your chain, you can measure from a pin with a ruler and another pin of the chain should be in-line at 12 inches (but no more than 1/8" more, if I remember right) of the ruler. If it is more than 1/8" pass the 12 inch mark, then you need to replace your chains.
In the future, to save on money, replace your chains when they are stretched more than 1/8" (like I mentioned above). This will keep you from changing you cassette and chain rings less often than you would if you don't change your chains.
I figure my present chain set still has some life in it so the change isn't urgent. However, my gear shifting isn't brilliant as there is some wear on the chain.
I originally intended to just replace the chain and cassette but will have to rethink this. It seems like the best thing I can do is purchase some of the tools, chain and chain set and study the mechanics.
The bike's O.K. for now but 3 mechanics have told me there is definitely some degree of wear and tear on my chain, cassette and chain set as a whole.
For now, the bike is performing O.K. so maybe I have anther 5 months or so.
If your chainring is rounded on top (or starting to round on the edges) then it needs to be replaced. The same for your cassette. Now for your chain, you can measure from a pin with a ruler and another pin of the chain should be in-line at 12 inches (but no more than 1/8" more, if I remember right) of the ruler. If it is more than 1/8" pass the 12 inch mark, then you need to replace your chains.
In the future, to save on money, replace your chains when they are stretched more than 1/8" (like I mentioned above). This will keep you from changing you cassette and chain rings less often than you would if you don't change your chains.Try again on all of it. Particularly the chain business.Waiting till 1/8" of elongation usually causes the cassette to get trashed too.
The LBS solution is often to fit new parts at the first sign of malfunction, and of course its their job to sell gear or services, from experiance this may not be required, always try the adjust/ improve operation first. If that fails down to the LBS. I was told my chain was at the wear limit and source of poor change issues after a full bike service, they where out of the chain I required or I would have changed it on the spot. Investigated at home and found the front and rear der was not set correctly , made the adjustment now all is well.;) Best to clean then lube the chain and cogs after all rides, that road grime grinds the the lightweight parts down quickly.
No doubt the chain and cogs have wear but still have manny more miles in them. Not that hard to check if your chain is at its limit of stretch/wear and in need of replacement. A new chain on very worn cogs will accelerate the wear of all components, no relief in that if only slight wear ie within limits fresh chain should work and will quickly become obvious if not.
A cycle buddy uses 3 chains in rotation, 1.in use- 2.clean- 3. standby and lubricated, keeps all cogs fresh and reduces wear rate. With the cost of chains reasonable will end up saving cash by extending the life of the cogs which are the most expensive items. Chain breaker and pins are only special tools thats required. :cool:
Check your chain with Park cc-3 or equivalent. Ruler not much use as 1/16" stretch per foot is still OK but 1/8" means that the cassette is probably maimed already.
If your chain is already overstretched then replace it; if not then don't replace any of the drivetrain.
Ride the bike to see if the chain slips. You may need to stand out of the pedals uphill to find out. Use all of your favourite gears on your favourite chainring.
If the chain slips, replace the cluster.
Check the bike by riding it again. If the chain still slips, replace the offending chainring. You don't need to take the crank off the bike to do this.
I once replaced the cassetts and chain then went up a hill and my middle ring up front would slip. Well then I knew I had to replace that ring, I put all the old stuff back on until I could get the new ring. As with all the old stuff on nothing would slip. Figured that I would just ride the old stuff into the ground, when I got the new ring I replaced everything and all was well. I agree to make sure all is adjusted properly.
Out Tim
A cycle buddy uses 3 chains in rotation, 1.in use- 2.clean- 3. standby and lubricated, keeps all cogs fresh and reduces wear rate.
My brother tried that and wasn't too impressed. His chainrings lasts 2 sets of cassettes+chains, then he replaces the lot. It might have been the case that he didn't rotate them often enough to distribute the wear sufficiently though.
Basically I started on the campaign trail today and purchased a new cassette, plus the cassette removal component. Next I have to buy a chain whip and then I have to figure out how to do the fitting. I'm hopeless at mechanics but am keen to learn some basic skills. I'm sure it would be cheaper to have the whole job done at a shop but I'm buying the tools so I can learn something new and have a go myself. I have a manual but will also try and find some instructions on the internet.
Next I have to purchase the chain set and new chain, plus the tools. Or, alternatively, I might simply fit the cassette myself and have the chainset done in a shop.
Since I still have some life left in my present chainset I'm in no huge rush. I figure I'll get all the components, research what I have to do and then strip the bike down in late Spring.
To be honest, 4 mechanics have now told me my chain is badly worn and that there's some slight deterioration of the rings and cassette, enough to cause some slipping with a new chain. I believe they are prone to exaggerate in the same way dentists do over fillings. Still, it is a second hand bike and has had plenty of use since I bought it. Once the chainring starts to perform worse I'll set to work.
Can anyone tell me if this is a very difficult job to do and if anyone has done the same as me and just had a go for the experience of learning something new?
A cycle buddy uses 3 chains in rotation, 1.in use- 2.clean- 3. standby and lubricated, keeps all cogs fresh and reduces wear rate. With the cost of chains reasonable will end up saving cash by extending the life of the cogs which are the most expensive items. Chain breaker and pins are only special tools thats required. :cool:
What a total waste. A chain can be adequatly cleaned ad relubbed on the bike,without even using one of the lame chain cleaners. People screw up more chains by breaking and ereattaching them. If you feel the need use a removable link.
Can anyone tell me if this is a very difficult job to do and if anyone has done the same as me and just had a go for the experience of learning something new?I think I have referenced the www.parktool site. There are reasonably priced maintenance books. None of it is difficult or rocket science. However the inept and mechanically disenfranchised manage to screw up badly and often create bigger problems and more expense for themselves. Some screwups can result in injury or death. That is a CYA disclaimer to put things in prespective.There are however many folks who started out clueless and on the bottom rung who have become quite adept at do it yourself. Following good instructions is the most important aspect.
Help! I notice my cassette has come with 2 loose smaller cogs that have symbols on.
I'm totally baffled both by the instructions and am clueless as to why 2 of the cogs come loose. There is also a plastic circular disk.
There are instructions but these are very vague so I'm going to have to purchase all the books I can find on Shimano.
I think I have referenced the www.parktool site. There are reasonably priced maintenance books. None of it is difficult or rocket science. However the inept and mechanically disenfranchised manage to screw up badly and often create bigger problems and more expense for themselves. Some screwups can result in injury or death. That is a CYA disclaimer to put things in prespective.There are however many folks who started out clueless and on the bottom rung who have become quite adept at do it yourself. Following good instructions is the most important aspect.
Help! I notice my cassette has come with 2 loose smaller cogs that have symbols on.
I'm totally baffled both by the instructions and am clueless as to why 2 of the cogs come loose. There is also a plastic circular disk.
There are instructions but these are very vague so I'm going to have to purchase all the books I can find on Shimano.No problem with the loose cogs.The disc is a spacer.
Well, there are 6 cogs bolted together by rivets and spacers in between. There are 2 smaller cogs loose with the plastic circular thing you say is the spacer.
I guess I won't get my head around it till I take my back wheel off and remove the former cassette. But I'm surprised there are some cogs loose if the 6 others are bolted by rivets to spacers. Apparently there are v markings to help with the allignment.
At least I have time to ponder before I set to work this Spring.
No problem with the loose cogs.The disc is a spacer.
Well, there are 6 cogs bolted together by rivets and spacers in between. There are 2 smaller cogs loose with the plastic circular thing you say is the spacer.
I guess I won't get my head around it till I take my back wheel off and remove the former cassette. But I'm surprised there are some cogs loose if the 6 others are bolted by rivets to spacers. Apparently there are v markings to help with the allignment.
At least I have time to ponder before I set to work this Spring.Trust me .They are supposed to be that way. They only go on the hub body one way due to the spline pattern.
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