zaskar
How does the head tube affect the ride of a bike? the postion etc. i bought a new frame and the head tube is about 2 inches shorter then my old bike.
View Full Version : Short Head Tube VS long
RC2
A longer head tube itself probably doesn't have much impact on the ride. It does allow a higher stem (longer steerer tube) w/o a bunch of spacers for a more upright riding position.
Or... some more racing-oriented bikes these days are made with near-zero fork clearance around a 700x23 tire, which may tend to extend the head tube length if the stem is kept at the same height.
Or... some more racing-oriented bikes these days are made with near-zero fork clearance around a 700x23 tire, which may tend to extend the head tube length if the stem is kept at the same height.
davidbod
A longer head tube allows more frame flex also.
dhk
How does the head tube affect the ride of a bike? the postion etc. i bought a new frame and the head tube is about 2 inches shorter then my old bike.
I'm curious as to why the head tube is 2 inches shorter. How do the seat tube and top tube dimensions compare to your old bike? Is the top tube lower to the ground on the new frame, longer, or both?
I'm curious as to why the head tube is 2 inches shorter. How do the seat tube and top tube dimensions compare to your old bike? Is the top tube lower to the ground on the new frame, longer, or both?
zaskar
I'm curious as to why the head tube is 2 inches shorter. How do the seat tube and top tube dimensions compare to your old bike? Is the top tube lower to the ground on the new frame, longer, or both?
The old bike was a compact with a sloping top tube. the new bike is sloping but slightly. the top tube seems to be about same height, but the bars are way lower. seems the head tube is what lowered the bars so much. i rode it on 3 long rides now and still don't know if i like it or not. my back is sore and so are my legs. this is the bike i got can you read the numbers and tell me what you think of the dimensions? i have a 52cm
http://www.kestrel-usa.com/bikes/evokered.php
The old bike was a compact with a sloping top tube. the new bike is sloping but slightly. the top tube seems to be about same height, but the bars are way lower. seems the head tube is what lowered the bars so much. i rode it on 3 long rides now and still don't know if i like it or not. my back is sore and so are my legs. this is the bike i got can you read the numbers and tell me what you think of the dimensions? i have a 52cm
http://www.kestrel-usa.com/bikes/evokered.php
PeterF
The old bike was a compact with a sloping top tube. the new bike is sloping but slightly. the top tube seems to be about same height, but the bars are way lower. seems the head tube is what lowered the bars so much. i rode it on 3 long rides now and still don't know if i like it or not. my back is sore and so are my legs. this is the bike i got can you read the numbers and tell me what you think of the dimensions? i have a 52cm
http://www.kestrel-usa.com/bikes/evokered.php
Does the bike with a longer head tube have an integrated headset? By design they are longer.
:confused:
http://www.kestrel-usa.com/bikes/evokered.php
Does the bike with a longer head tube have an integrated headset? By design they are longer.
:confused:
Roadie_scum
How does the head tube affect the ride of a bike? the postion etc. i bought a new frame and the head tube is about 2 inches shorter then my old bike.
Shorter head tubes are normally associated with racing triathlete/time trial setups. They allow for a lower and more aero position, even with the addition of height that comes from having elbow pads on time trial bars. If you can get comfortable in the position you may be ad an advantage if you maintain your hip angle (so you don't lose power) by putting your seat forward (steepening seat angle) and lowering your torso - flattening your back and getting down low on that front end like you now can. You'll be super aero.
Shorter head tubes are normally associated with racing triathlete/time trial setups. They allow for a lower and more aero position, even with the addition of height that comes from having elbow pads on time trial bars. If you can get comfortable in the position you may be ad an advantage if you maintain your hip angle (so you don't lose power) by putting your seat forward (steepening seat angle) and lowering your torso - flattening your back and getting down low on that front end like you now can. You'll be super aero.
zaskar
Shorter head tubes are normally associated with racing triathlete/time trial setups. They allow for a lower and more aero position, even with the addition of height that comes from having elbow pads on time trial bars. If you can get comfortable in the position you may be ad an advantage if you maintain your hip angle (so you don't lose power) by putting your seat forward (steepening seat angle) and lowering your torso - flattening your back and getting down low on that front end like you now can. You'll be super aero.
yea im am alot aero on this bike and hope i can get use to it. i feel like i may have lost power on the climbs it feels harder. i did have my saddle pushed back but ive been moving it more foward. what do you mean by steepening seat angle? in general does a more foward seat angle let you get more power to the pedals?
yea im am alot aero on this bike and hope i can get use to it. i feel like i may have lost power on the climbs it feels harder. i did have my saddle pushed back but ive been moving it more foward. what do you mean by steepening seat angle? in general does a more foward seat angle let you get more power to the pedals?
dhk
The old bike was a compact with a sloping top tube. the new bike is sloping but slightly. the top tube seems to be about same height, but the bars are way lower. seems the head tube is what lowered the bars so much. i rode it on 3 long rides now and still don't know if i like it or not. my back is sore and so are my legs. this is the bike i got can you read the numbers and tell me what you think of the dimensions? i have a 52cm
http://www.kestrel-usa.com/bikes/evokered.php
Cool bike. A buddy of mine has the Evoke in matt black finish; he loves it.
Seems the headtube may be 5-10mm shorter than Look CF frames I checked for comparison, but it's hard to get an exact match. The real question is how much drop and reach you have to the bars vs your old setup. If your saddle-to-bar drop went up by those 2 inches, can understand why your back would be hurting now.
Perhaps you can add a 10 mm shim to the stack if the steer tube hasn't already been cut, or flip the stem over to get less drop.
http://www.kestrel-usa.com/bikes/evokered.php
Cool bike. A buddy of mine has the Evoke in matt black finish; he loves it.
Seems the headtube may be 5-10mm shorter than Look CF frames I checked for comparison, but it's hard to get an exact match. The real question is how much drop and reach you have to the bars vs your old setup. If your saddle-to-bar drop went up by those 2 inches, can understand why your back would be hurting now.
Perhaps you can add a 10 mm shim to the stack if the steer tube hasn't already been cut, or flip the stem over to get less drop.
zaskar
Cool bike. A buddy of mine has the Evoke in matt black finish; he loves it.
Seems the headtube may be 5-10mm shorter than Look CF frames I checked for comparison, but it's hard to get an exact match. The real question is how much drop and reach you have to the bars vs your old setup. If your saddle-to-bar drop went up by those 2 inches, can understand why your back would be hurting now.
Perhaps you can add a 10 mm shim to the stack if the steer tube hasn't already been cut, or flip the stem over to get less drop.
Ok thanks, i have a 3inch drop from seat to bars and no more tube steer tube left. i can however reverse the stem. i think ill give it a little more time though.
Seems the headtube may be 5-10mm shorter than Look CF frames I checked for comparison, but it's hard to get an exact match. The real question is how much drop and reach you have to the bars vs your old setup. If your saddle-to-bar drop went up by those 2 inches, can understand why your back would be hurting now.
Perhaps you can add a 10 mm shim to the stack if the steer tube hasn't already been cut, or flip the stem over to get less drop.
Ok thanks, i have a 3inch drop from seat to bars and no more tube steer tube left. i can however reverse the stem. i think ill give it a little more time though.
Roadie_scum
yea im am alot aero on this bike and hope i can get use to it. i feel like i may have lost power on the climbs it feels harder. i did have my saddle pushed back but ive been moving it more foward. what do you mean by steepening seat angle? in general does a more foward seat angle let you get more power to the pedals?
By steepening seat angle I just mean sliding your saddle forward - this changes your effective seat angle without doing any structural change to the angles in the frame (seatpost, seat tube, etc). It's not really that a steeper seat angle gives you more power at the pedals per se (although there is some evidence it might). More important in my mind is that if you drop further to the bars and don't move your seat forward enough, the angle between your torso and your legs changes (hip angle) which can definitely detrimentally affect your power output.
When you change to lower bars and get more aero, you want to do that by effectively rotating your body - this means seat comes forward and up as bars drop. You don't want to do it by rotating your torso forward but leaving your legs where you are. You should be able to adopt a more aero position and effectively maintain all the angles between the different parts of your body (unless you favour a very upright position - as a general guide, it's probably good to aim for a flat-flattish back and a hip angle of around 90 degrees at the base of the pedal stroke).
By steepening seat angle I just mean sliding your saddle forward - this changes your effective seat angle without doing any structural change to the angles in the frame (seatpost, seat tube, etc). It's not really that a steeper seat angle gives you more power at the pedals per se (although there is some evidence it might). More important in my mind is that if you drop further to the bars and don't move your seat forward enough, the angle between your torso and your legs changes (hip angle) which can definitely detrimentally affect your power output.
When you change to lower bars and get more aero, you want to do that by effectively rotating your body - this means seat comes forward and up as bars drop. You don't want to do it by rotating your torso forward but leaving your legs where you are. You should be able to adopt a more aero position and effectively maintain all the angles between the different parts of your body (unless you favour a very upright position - as a general guide, it's probably good to aim for a flat-flattish back and a hip angle of around 90 degrees at the base of the pedal stroke).
Roadie_scum
Ok thanks, i have a 3inch drop from seat to bars and no more tube steer tube left. i can however reverse the stem. i think ill give it a little more time though.
I can assure you 3 inches isn't a big drop at all - you should be able to ride it comfortably with your seat angles right unless you have some kind of serious structural problem, and even then...
It does take a little getting used to when your position changes. Just try to maintain your functional angles and it will all fall into place.
I can assure you 3 inches isn't a big drop at all - you should be able to ride it comfortably with your seat angles right unless you have some kind of serious structural problem, and even then...
It does take a little getting used to when your position changes. Just try to maintain your functional angles and it will all fall into place.
zaskar
I can assure you 3 inches isn't a big drop at all - you should be able to ride it comfortably with your seat angles right unless you have some kind of serious structural problem, and even then...
It does take a little getting used to when your position changes. Just try to maintain your functional angles and it will all fall into place.
Thanks for the info Roadie.
It does take a little getting used to when your position changes. Just try to maintain your functional angles and it will all fall into place.
Thanks for the info Roadie.
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