easy question- cassette change
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hi all-
am relatively new to bike maintenance and have a quick question regarding cassettes. I recently replaced the 12-23 rear cassette on my bike with a 12-27. When I pulled off the old cassette it looked like there was grease in the channels of the freehub. as I'm looking to transfer this cassette to a new set of 404s I purchased, should I apply grease to the freehub (it's brand-new) or just slide the cassette on? Can't find any mention of lubing up a new freehub in Zinn's book.
thanks much.
Most likely the grease is from the chain lube. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I can't see any reason to lube something that isn't suppossed to be moving. Once locked down, the hub and the cogs are one with each other.
hi all-
am relatively new to bike maintenance and have a quick question regarding cassettes. I recently replaced the 12-23 rear cassette on my bike with a 12-27. When I pulled off the old cassette it looked like there was grease in the channels of the freehub. as I'm looking to transfer this cassette to a new set of 404s I purchased, should I apply grease to the freehub (it's brand-new) or just slide the cassette on? Can't find any mention of lubing up a new freehub in Zinn's book.
thanks much.No grase and make sure the chain is long enoughto handle the big/big/
Grease it... doesn't hurt and might help get it off next time. In general, grease all threads and press fittings.
Grease it... doesn't hurt and might help get it off next time. In general, grease all threads and press fittings.What a load !! It's just a dirt magnet where you don't want one,and there are no threads or press fit involved.Do you actually know what a cassette is and how it works? A bit of grease on the lockring threads won't hurt.
you are so emotional bore-troll. Your fits are hilarious. Can do it either way. The only reason you would put grease at that interface is to coat the inside of the cassette against rust. Ideally you don't want any lubricity between the mating parts. I personally use just a touch of anti-seize paste on the I.D. of the cassette and leave the hub dry.
George
thanks all- I'm going sans-grease on my 404s.
triwannabe99
The only reason you would put grease at that interface is to coat the inside of the cassette against rust. Ideally you don't want any lubricity between the mating parts. I personally use just a touch of anti-seize paste on the I.D. of the cassette and leave the hub dry.
GeorgeThe rust issue is nonsense,as it the rest of it Georgie.And how can you put something on the ID of the cassette,and not get it on the hub body too??...LOL.....The repair section at www.parktool.con has the drill on how to do it. No grease on hub body....Try getting a step or two up on the knowledge base,unless of course,you like wearing the fool hat. :rolleyes:
thanks all- I'm going sans-grease on my 404s.
triwannabe99
Good catch. Ignore the nonsense and blather.Never used grease on a freehub body.Never had an issue. Grease the threads if you have a freewheel hub.
that's right bore-troll and chains don't corrode either without a coating.
How on earth does a chain not slip on a sprocket when both surfaces are lubricated?...you foo.
Remember what mummy said...take your medicine and stay away from the
the upstairs windows. Or better yet...jump.
George
that's right bore-troll and chains don't corrode either without a coating.
How on earth does a chain not slip on a sprocket when both surfaces are lubricated?...you foo.
Remember what mummy said...take your medicine and stay away from the
the upstairs windows. Or better yet...jump.
GeorgeGive it up Georgie. Now you sound like a moron,as if fool wasn't bad enough.
What a load !! It's just a dirt magnet where you don't want one,and there are no threads or press fit involved.Do you actually know what a cassette is and how it works? A bit of grease on the lockring threads won't hurt.
A cassette body is going to get dirty whether there's grease on there or not. A bit of grease will help the cassette slide on and off smoothly, we're not talking about greasing bearings here, just a thin film. Helps prevent corrosion of steel bodies too. Aluminum bodies can get gouged pretty easily by the steel carrier in the cassette if you force the installation - think of the grease as AstroGlide.
A bit of grease on the lockring threads is recommended by virtually everybody - no brainer there.
Even if you disagree, you've got to admit this is way down there on your BouHooey scale; pretty minor point of contention. Save your smartass wit for dumbass newbs.
Aluminum bodies can get gouged pretty easily by the steel carrier in the cassette if you force the installation - think of the grease as AstroGlide.
Save your smartass wit for dumbass newbs.What a load! . Take Georgie and both of ya go bone up at www.parktool.com for a while.
What a load! . Take Georgie and both of ya go bone up at www.parktool.com for a while.
I've done my time at the Park Tools site. It doesn't say not to grease the splines. It also doesn't say not to get drunk before you do bike maintenance.
I've seen rusty steel freehub bodies and stuck cassettes from gouged splines. If you haven't, then you haven't spent as much time in front of a workstand as I have.
OK, I'm done. You can have the last word now Bou.
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