View Full Version : What do you think about this chain lube...
You know it just occured to me while changing the oil in my car, why not use the used motor oil as chainlube?
Mobile One 10w30 is as good a lubricant (probably much better) than any of the spray chain lubes out there. GT-85 etc.
Anyone try this?
You know it just occured to me while changing the oil in my car, why not use the used motor oil as chainlube?
Mobile One 10w30 is as good a lubricant (probably much better) than any of the spray chain lubes out there. GT-85 etc.
Anyone try this?It's been done. Use some mineral spirits or something to thin it out so that it can get down between the rollers in the chain. Then when the spirits evaporates the thicker Moblil 1 will be down inside where it counts.
way back, a buddy used 30wt. a truly serious roadie. i found out later he was not alone. of course, he lived with his mom and that was what was around.
also, diesel oil has served as the chain lube 'n cleaner for euro pro use upon a time.
for a long time now, all i use is finish line century wet lube. of course it used to be better when it had triclorethylene as solvent in it. too bad the stuff is toxic in the part per billion, and was replaced.
just stay the heck away from any and all dry type lubes, as they are without fail inferior.
You know it just occured to me while changing the oil in my car, why not use the used motor oil as chainlube?
Mobile One 10w30 is as good a lubricant (probably much better) than any of the spray chain lubes out there. GT-85 etc.
Anyone try this?
Thatsa good idea. I appriciate the advice.
It's been done. Use some mineral spirits or something to thin it out so that it can get down between the rollers in the chain. Then when the spirits evaporates the thicker Moblil 1 will be down inside where it counts.
You know it just occured to me while changing the oil in my car, why not use the used motor oil as chainlube?
Mobile One 10w30 is as good a lubricant (probably much better) than any of the spray chain lubes out there. GT-85 etc.
Anyone try this?The used oil will be cruddy. Oil your chain with new engine (gearbox, crankcase) oil if you don't trust purpose made bicycle chain lubricant.
Dude I'm as much of a maint-whore with my car as I am the bike. When I change my oil it isn't black. More like dark honey.
The used oil will be cruddy. Oil your chain with new engine (gearbox, crankcase) oil if you don't trust purpose made bicycle chain lubricant.
Dude I'm as much of a maint-whore with my car as I am the bike. When I change my oil it isn't black. More like dark honey.I'm sure that this stuff will be good for your chain. But if engine oil is any better than chain lube for chains, why isn't it being sold as such?
I'm sure that this stuff will be good for your chain. But if engine oil is any better than chain lube for chains, why isn't it being sold as such?
It doesn't cost enough. It's also a dirt magnet.
Ya cheap bastid, new oil can be had for less than a buck a quart! Why use some dirty stuff when you don't have to?
Ya cheap bastid, new oil can be had for less than a buck a quart! Why use some dirty stuff when you don't have to?Protecting the environment by finding a use for the old stuff?
Marketing baby!
Chain lube is $28 a quart and motor oil is $1.50
I'm sure that this stuff will be good for your chain. But if engine oil is any better than chain lube for chains, why isn't it being sold as such?
Marketing baby!
Chain lube is $28 a quart and motor oil is $1.50
I can see it now .... "Iron Donut Pro Chain Lube, only 9.99! Caution; do not use on carbon fibre frames."
Even with clean used (but not gritty sludge) motor oil, his chain will not get cruddy if ID takes the time to wipe it down and relube frequently. Takes only a minute or two after each ride to do this. Actually Lenny says to do this before each ride but I do it afterwards so the lube has a chance to soak in overnight to where it will actually do some good.
Pasted from a response I typed up in a different forum:
In Zinn & The Art of Road Bike Maintenance, ISBN 1-884737-70-6, there is a chapter on chains. I'll paraphrase what he's written.
Section 4-6: Checking for Chain Elongation, he references using the Rohloff Chain Checker or an accurate ruler to determine chain elongation.
Section 4-5: Chain Replacement, he states that chain life varies by many variables, such as the type, riding conditions, riding style (masher vs. spinner), weight of rider, etc. He says as a ballpark figure you can figure on replacing a chain every 1000 - 1500 miles if it's ridden in dirty conditions by a large rider. Light riders riding on clean dry roads can extend that time to 2000 - 3000 miles.
He also states in Section 4-2: Cleaning, that the simplest way to maintain a chain is to frequently wipe it down and relube it. He says if you do this prior to every ride then you'll never have to clean a chain with solvent or take it off the bike until it's worn. The reason is that the new lube works the grime loose and it doesn't have time to build up into a paste and cause problems.
My personal take on this is that Zinn uses the 1000 - 1500 and 2000 - 3000 mile ranges as general guidlines and what can be expected from a chain and not the definitive last word as to when to change a chain. That's how I read it. Others may see it differently.
I've noticed that he's changed his stance on using diesil fuel as a solvent. Probably because he was catching hell from the green crowd.
Wouldn't put any confidence in predictions of chain life, since so much depends on how and where you ride, and your maintenance. I got 6000 miles on my last SRAM PC-99 chain before the Park CC-3 gauge said it was worn to 0.75%.
One 4 oz bottle of Finish Line Drylube has more than outlasted the chain, so it's hardly an expense to worry about. I ran motor oil in the old days, always had a glistening black chain and lots of mess. Found a real chain lube is well worth the money, even for a cheapskate like me.
Motor oil is a good chain lube. Unfortunately is also attracts every bit of grime and road dust which in turn chews the crap out of your chain and chain rings.
I'd rather spend my money on a good dry lube.
The primary purpose of chain lube is to protect the teeth on the gears. There is imperceptible (it's measureable, of course, but it's washed out by greater areas of bicycle friction) difference between a dry chain and an oiled chain. Motor oil is fine if you apply it frequently and wipe the chain well so you don't throw oil while riding. The idea is to keep the rollers oiled and clean. Side plates are not very important as far as drive-train wear.
This is my opinion so others will differ. Pick and choose what you like.
Anyone else use a Dry lube with teflon (aeresol) from home depot?
Its pretty cheap and it doesn't attract dirt and grime.
Anyone else use a Dry lube with teflon (aeresol) from home depot?
Its pretty cheap and it doesn't attract dirt and grime.I've used it and it's better than nothing, but there are others that are actually designed to go on chains, why use something that isn't for choice?
Anyone else use a Dry lube with teflon (aeresol) from home depot?
Its pretty cheap and it doesn't attract dirt and grime.
Aerosol sprays may be fast, but the lube gets all over the place. I've found my chain stays a lot cleaner by just applying one small drop of dry lube to the center of each bushing. Applying one drop/bushing does takes a little time, maybe 3 minutes, but think of all the chain lube you'll save. A 4 oz bottle has lasted 7000 miles now.
But chain maintenance is a very personal ritual. If you'd rather spray stuff in 10 seconds than tediously apply a drop on each of 110 bushings, that's OK too.
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