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Beginner - advice from experts please? Please help....

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The Oracle
  
Hello, I am a beginner cyclist (okay, I had a Raleigh Chopper when I was a kid but we won't go
there!!). I am also a runner and I am recovering from bad shin splints so I decided to go out on my
bike for some exercise - a wrecked Peugeot "mountain bike". Guess what - I loved it and did about 50
miles. I have done this about ten times so far and I find it great and marevlous for fitness. It
doesn't stress the joints and bones as much as running and its great for my weight training becuase
its great for my quad muscles in my legs

I am six feet two and mucular in the upper body and legs and weigh in at 15 stone. I am 35 years
old. I am going to get riding a lot more but can I have some advice from you guys please? I see
loads of cyclists on the road who seem to be on racing bikes. What are they doing and how many miles
are they doing as a guess? I would like to do that too. What do I need? What kind of bike? Is it
dangerous on the roads nowadays? Are there any clubs in Nottingham for someone like me - I am very
dedicated. Any specific URL's for me to look at?

Thanks very much for any assistance. Steve Nottingham

Peter B
  
"The Oracle" <kojaknospam@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:bcct8b$hqes8$1@ID-179018.news.dfncis.de...
> I see loads of cyclists on the road who seem to be on racing bikes. What are they doing and how
> many miles
are
> they doing as a guess?

Having invested in a good quality road (racing as opposed to touring) bike I'd guess a "short" ride
to be between 20 and 40 miles and a longish one 50 to 80 miles with the bit in the middle neither
here nor there ;-) (or at least that's about what I do) The reason for arriving at this is because
if you're not interested in riding at relatively high average speeds of say 17 to 20 mph it's
pointless, IMHO, to buy a "racer" when maybe a tourer may be more comfortable and functional. So
quite simply an hour or two after work is a short ride of upto 40 miles and a Sunday morning ride of
3 or 4 hours gives the higher figure. In my case my span of attention is exhausted after 4 hours on
a road bike so if I want a good "days" ride I'll go off-road somewhere like the Peak District on my
mtb. (With a touring road bike you could do a similar thing but obviously with very limited off-road
capability).

>I would like to do that too. What do I need? What kind of bike?

Think of spending £500 up for starters, if you can get a previous years model at clearance price so
much the better generally. You should be able to manage Nottinghamshire with 18 gears, (just a
double chainring) but somewhere like the Peaks will require 27 gears (triple chainring) and it's
probably not a bad idea to go down that route anyway.

> Is it dangerous on the roads nowadays?

Well it's not undangerous but the health benefits of cycling outweigh the road risks. Hopefully
others will point you to some websites that provide info on good practice.

> Are there any clubs in Nottingham for someone like me - I am very dedicated. Any specific
URL's
> for me to look at?

http://www.ctc.org.uk/ The CTC provide all kinds of info, help and third party insurance is included
in the membership fee. http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/index.shtml provides maintenance help.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/) is a font of information and humour.
http://www.shimano-europe.com/cycling/ for more technical stuff. http://www.leisure-lakes.co.uk (http://www.leisure-lakes.co.uk/) sell
bikes and kit. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ sell kit at rock bottom prices with fast, free
delivery. http://www.bikemagic.co.uk/review/review.asp?sp=&v=2 Provide reviews of bikes and kit plus
other stuff.

Pete

Pete Biggs
  
Pete B wrote:
> if you're not interested in riding at relatively high average speeds of say 17 to 20 mph it's
> pointless, IMHO, to buy a "racer" when maybe a tourer may be more comfortable and functional.

I disagree with those figures. I usually ride at under 17mph average
(14.5 - 18) and find my road bike much more enjoyable and efficient than a tourer - at least when
the weather's ok and I don't need to carry much luggage. I tend to do 15 to 40 mile rides,
with the occasional longer one up to 60 odd. Thing is, like most people, I'm going a lot
faster than my _average_ speed for plenty of the time and that's when the road bike's
qualities really kick in.

So Steve, not /everyone/ you see on a road bike is a racer-in-training or hardcore fitness fanatic.
The next one you see might just be some bloke going down the road to post a letter - all lycra'd-up,
of course! :-)

~PB

Pete Biggs
  
The Oracle asked:

> What do I need?

New road bike (avoid the cheapest ones) or a second-hand one, shoes, gloves (mitts), shorts, water
bottles, pump, small tool kit, cycle computer, lights. That's it, to start.

> What kind of bike?

Normal road race bike. They're all of quite similar type and quality for the money. It's vital to
get right size and shape for you, so consult a couple of bike shops that sell plenty of road bikes.
The most major decision over componentry is over the chainset: double or triple (number of sprockets
at the front) - and that's a whole subject in itself. Everything else is relatively unimportant and
you can always upgrade/replace when you've learnt more (next year, etc). But it is often worth
changing saddles, tyres and pedals straight away to something more comfortable or better-quality for
general use.

> Is it dangerous on the roads nowadays?

Not if you are sensible and alert.

~PB

Peter B
  
"Pete Biggs" <pLime{remove_fruit}@biggs.tc> wrote in message
news:bcet1n$i4hs1$1@ID-144931.news.dfncis.de...
> Pete B wrote:
> > if you're not interested in riding at relatively high average speeds of say 17 to 20 mph it's
> > pointless, IMHO, to buy a "racer" when maybe a tourer may be more comfortable and functional.
>
> I disagree with those figures. I usually ride at under 17mph average
> (14.5 - 18) and find my road bike much more enjoyable and efficient than a tourer - at least when
> the weather's ok and I don't need to carry much luggage. I tend to do 15 to 40 mile rides,
> with the occasional longer one up to 60 odd. Thing is, like most people, I'm going a lot
> faster than my _average_ speed for plenty of the time and that's when the road bike's
> qualities really kick in.

Yes. On reflection I agree with you Pete. Average speed is in itself not a valid criteria for bike
selection. I'd prefer a "racing" bike for its handling qualities alone as I travel light anyway. And
early in the year my average isn't 17mph either but I'm still almightily chuffed to be on my "racer"
after laying it up during the salty road period
:-)

Pete

Ian
  
Buy a recumbent, comfort, high ish cruising speeds depending of course on fitness, you can pedal
round corners, and at least 50years ahead of wedgies in technology.

Ian

> Pete B wrote:
>> if you're not interested in riding at relatively high average speeds of say 17 to 20 mph it's
>> pointless, IMHO, to buy a "racer" when maybe a tourer may be more comfortable and functional.
>
> I disagree with those figures. I usually ride at under 17mph average
> (14.5 - 18) and find my road bike much more enjoyable and efficient than a tourer - at least when
> the weather's ok and I don't need to carry much luggage. I tend to do 15 to 40 mile rides,
> with the occasional longer one up to 60 odd. Thing is, like most people, I'm going a lot
> faster than my _average_ speed for plenty of the time and that's when the road bike's
> qualities really kick in.
>
> So Steve, not /everyone/ you see on a road bike is a racer-in-training or hardcore fitness
> fanatic. The next one you see might just be some bloke going down the road to post a letter - all
> lycra'd-up, of course! :-)
>
> ~PB

The Oracle
  
Thankyou guys, A big subject this isn't it. By the way, I have got a killer ache in the groin area
from cycling. Does this go away eventually? Steve

"The Oracle" <kojaknospam@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:bcct8b$hqes8$1@ID-179018.news.dfncis.de...
> Hello, I am a beginner cyclist (okay, I had a Raleigh Chopper when I was a kid
but
> we won't go there!!). I am also a runner and I am recovering from bad
shin
> splints so I decided to go out on my bike for some exercise - a wrecked Peugeot "mountain bike".
> Guess what - I loved it and did about 50 miles.
I
> have done this about ten times so far and I find it great and marevlous
for
> fitness. It doesn't stress the joints and bones as much as running and
its
> great for my weight training becuase its great for my quad muscles in my legs
>
> I am six feet two and mucular in the upper body and legs and weigh in at
15
> stone. I am 35 years old. I am going to get riding a lot more but can I have some advice from you
> guys please? I see loads of cyclists on the
road
> who seem to be on racing bikes. What are they doing and how many miles
are
> they doing as a guess? I would like to do that too. What do I need?
What
> kind of bike? Is it dangerous on the roads nowadays? Are there any clubs in Nottingham for someone
> like me - I am very dedicated. Any specific
URL's
> for me to look at?
>
> Thanks very much for any assistance. Steve Nottingham

John B
  
The Oracle wrote:

> Thankyou guys, A big subject this isn't it. By the way, I have got a killer ache in the groin area
> from cycling. Does this go away eventually? Steve

If you take Ian's previous advice about a recumbent, yes. It is futile to resist the DS; it will
strike anywhere ;-)

John B

James Hodson
  
On Sat, 14 Jun 2003 11:24:30 +0100, "Pete Biggs" <pLime{remove_fruit}@biggs.tc> wrote:

>So Steve, not /everyone/ you see on a road bike is a racer-in-training or hardcore fitness fanatic.
>The next one you see might just be some bloke going down the road to post a letter - all
>lycra'd-up, of course! :-)
>

You've been spying on me, Pete.

James

--
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/c.butty/Dscf0632.jpg

Wafflydirtycatl
  
>By the way, I have got a killer ache in the groin area from cycling. Does this go away
>eventually? Steve

You need to check your saddle - is it positioned correctly and is it comfortable? Are you wearing
padded cycling shorts? If not - it's worth investing in some.

Honestly - with a comfortable, correctly fitting and correctly positioned saddle, you should not
have any discomfort at all.

The other thing to check is whether or not you are wearing underpants or "going commando". If you
wear underpants, you can get a rubbing between the groin and the edge of your underpants. For this
reason, many prefer to go commando :-)

Cheers, helen s

~~~~~~~~~~
This is sent from a redundant email Mail sent to it is dumped My correct one can be gleaned from
h$**$*$el$**e$n$**$d$**$o$*$t**$$s$**$im$mo$ns*@a$**o$l.c$$*o$*m*$ by getting rid of the
overdependence on money and fame
~~~~~~~~~~

Peter Clinch
  
wafflyDIRTYcatLITTERhcsBOX wrote:

> Honestly - with a comfortable, correctly fitting and correctly positioned saddle, you should not
> have any discomfort at all.

To an extent... even the best saddles, especially on racers, are quite small and support your weight
over a limited area. If you're sat on it for several hours it's quite possible you'll ache (as you
would sat on a kitchen stool for several hours) regardless of position and fit. To avoid this
altogether, get a bike with a comfy chair instead (they're the ones called "recumbents").

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch University of Dundee Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Medical Physics, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net p.j.clinch@dundee.ac.uk
http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

Peter Clinch
  
Ian wrote:
> Buy a recumbent, comfort, high ish cruising speeds depending of course =
on
> fitness, you can pedal round corners, and at least 50years ahead of wed=
gies
> in technology.

Aside from aerodynamic fairings (where used) the technology is pretty=20 much the same. My recumbent
uses standard gears, standard wheels,=20 standard brakes, standard controls, standard suspension
units, standard=20 tubing fixed together with standard welding and it carries standard=20 panniers.
The seat isn't standard, but it doesn't employ any more=20 technology than a typical modern saddle.
So the technology isn't really any different, it's just the mindset that =

doesn't have the UCI's "this is how we define a a bike, and you shall=20 not do anything else"
dominating what gets *done* with the technology.

But as a recumbent rider who much prefers them just because of the=20 possibilities this mindset
affords, I'll recommend you at least consider =

one of the hotter sports models too. You can get just as much exercise=20 but do it in a comfy
chair instead of perched on a wee saddle on a pole=20 while leaning on your arms for a long spell.
Note that the "high=20 cruising speed" depends on the design as well as fitness, just as much=20
as an upright bike. Urban recumbents are slow, racing recumbents can=20 move like **** off a
teflon shovel.

There are definite downsides: first up, the market is small so things=20 start far more expensive.
You can get a nice upright racer for =A3500=20 while a hot 'bent will start at twice that. Because
really nice=20 uprights are a niche as well the price difference isn't maintained=20 though, so a
really amazing 'bent won't necessarily cost anything like=20 twice as much as a really amazing
upright. If you want to race, most races are closed to 'bents (they were banned=20 in the 1930s
after someone had the cheek to take the hour record on one=20 and upset the Powers That Be, the
UCI). And if you want to go out with=20 the local Chain Gangs you really need a bike that has the
same overall=20 characteristics as everyone else's, as you'll be doing co-operative=20 drafting and
riding as a bunch most of the time ('bents will usually be=20 slower up hills, faster down and
faster into the wind than an upright=20 racer with a similar standard of rider). You need to be an
exhibitionist: you will get noticed and talked about,=20 and though most of the buzz is +ve there
are some folk who'll laugh at=20 you. Avoid if you dislike standing out a *long* way from crowds.

If those downsides aren't a problem, might as well do your cycling in=20 more comfort rather than
less, and that means look at recumbents.

Final note is that even if you don't choose recumbent, "road bikes" are=20 not limited to UCI-style
racers. Things like the hotter Moultons,=20 Airnimals and Bike Fridays will be just as quick but do
things like come =

apart for transport and stowage, maybe have roadgoing suspension to=20 improve comfort and
efficiency over poor surfaces and so on. Again the=20 case that stepping outside the usual box puts
the base price up to=20 around a grand though.

Pete. --=20 Peter Clinch University of Dundee Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Medical Physics,
Ninewells Hospital Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net p.j.clinch@dundee.ac.uk
http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

Jeremy Parker
  
> Is it dangerous on the roads nowadays?

Well it's safer than walking, measured in deaths per mile, but I seem to recall that once you do
more than 1000 miles per year, the accident rate per year doesn't get any bigger, no matter how many
miles you do.

Experience is the best teacher, but her fees are expensive, as the saying goes, so it's best to
learn from other people's bad experience, not your own. Not everything that you should do is
intuitively obvious, and there is a lot of bad advice floating around.

The definitive book to read is John Franklin, "Cyclecraft", the Stationary Office.

beware of bike facilities. Those most enthusiastic about them tend to be those who have most
difficulty riding on the road. This is often because they do the wrong thing. Those same mistakes
tend to get built into bike faiclities, essentially making those mistakes compulsory.

Jeremy Parker

Arthur Clune
  
The Oracle <kojaknospam@ntlworld.com> wrote:
: Thankyou guys, A big subject this isn't it. By the way, I have got a killer ache in the groin area
: from cycling. Does this go away eventually?

Yes and once won't do any harm, but cycling should be comfortable.

The probable causes are a saddle that's too high, too low, too soft or too hard. So that covers a
fair few things.

The most likely cuase on a bike that's just been bought are either the saddle being too high or too
soft and wide in my experience.

See if you can borrow some different saddles from friends and try them out. What they find
increadably uncomfortable may work fine for you and visa vera.

--
Arthur Clune http://www.clune.org (http://www.clune.org/) Power is delightful. Absolute power is absolutely delightful -
Lord Lester

Dave Kahn
  
On Mon, 16 Jun 2003 09:13:03 +0000, Jeremy Parker <JeremyParker@compuserve.com> wrote:

>beware of bike facilities. Those most enthusiastic about them tend to be those who have most
>difficulty riding on the road. This is often because they do the wrong thing. Those same mistakes
>tend to get built into bike faiclities, essentially making those mistakes compulsory.

Or to put it another way: dangerous places, cycle lanes.

--
Dave...

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