Computer not working

[Saint]

Mt LBS is about 12 miles from where I live and last week I took my new bike in for its 1st service
after about 250 miles. They sorted out all the cables/brake issues due to initial stretching but
when I got the bike home I noticed that the computer had stopped working. It's a CatEye model - not
a wireless one.

I have had a muck about with the sensor on the wheel and receptor unit on the fork just to make sure
they appear lined up but still no joy. Anyone offer a bit more 'idiot's guide' advice?

Can't get it back to the shop for 2 weeks.

Cheers

Saint

[James Annan]

Saint wrote:
> Mt LBS is about 12 miles from where I live and last week I took my new bike in for its 1st service
> after about 250 miles. They sorted out all the cables/brake issues due to initial stretching but
> when I got the bike home I noticed that the computer had stopped working. It's a CatEye model -
> not a wireless one.
>
> I have had a muck about with the sensor on the wheel and receptor unit on the fork just to make
> sure they appear lined up but still no joy. Anyone offer a bit more 'idiot's guide' advice?

1. Listen carefully for the click in the reed switch (sensor) as the magnet passes by. If you can't
hear one, then the two parts are not close enough. Most problems are caused by this IME.

2. Once you have a reliable click, if it's still not working, clean the contacts between unit and
mount (if it's removable). Also check that by shorting out the contacts by hand you can make the
unit think it is moving.

3. If it's still not working but problems 1 and 2 are eliminated, one of the wires is probably
broken and you need a new sensor kit.

James

[Chris Malcolm]

James Annan <still_the_same_me@hotmail.com> writes:

>Saint wrote:

>> I have had a muck about with the sensor on the wheel and receptor unit on the fork just to make
>> sure they appear lined up but still no joy. Anyone offer a bit more 'idiot's guide' advice?

>1. Listen carefully for the click in the reed switch (sensor) as the magnet passes by. If you can't
> hear one, then the two parts are not close enough. Most problems are caused by this IME.

>2. Once you have a reliable click, if it's still not working, clean the contacts between unit and
> mount (if it's removable). Also check that by shorting out the contacts by hand you can make the
> unit think it is moving.

>3. If it's still not working but problems 1 and 2 are eliminated, one of the wires is probably
> broken and you need a new sensor kit.

Unless of course you can fix a broken wire...

--
Chris Malcolm cam@inf.ed.ac.uk +44 (0)131 650 3085 DoD #205 School of Informatics, Edinburgh
University, 5 Forrest Hill, Edinburgh, EH1 2QL, UK. [http://www.dai.ed.ac.uk/homes/cam/ ]

[Andrew Chadwick]

On Sun, 13 Jul 2003 18:51:37 +0900, James Annan <still_the_same_me@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Saint wrote:
>
> > the computer had stopped working. It's a CatEye model - not a wireless one.
>
> 1. Listen carefully for the click in the reed switch (sensor) as the magnet passes by. If you
> can't hear one, then the two parts are not close enough. Most problems are caused by this IME.
>
> 2. Once you have a reliable click, if it's still not working, clean the contacts between unit and
> mount (if it's removable). Also check that by shorting out the contacts by hand you can make
> the unit think it is moving.
>
> 3. If it's still not working but problems 1 and 2 are eliminated, one of the wires is probably
> broken and you need a new sensor kit.

What James said - in addition:

2a. Ensure that the computer itself has firmly clicked into its housing. Fairly trivial, but my new
CatEye takes a bit of welly to fix in place properly. The return springs on the contacts are
rather stiff.

--
Andrew Chadwick <We're all in this together

[James Annan]

Chris Malcolm wrote:

>>3. If it's still not working but problems 1 and 2 are eliminated, one of the wires is probably
>> broken and you need a new sensor kit.
>
>
> Unless of course you can fix a broken wire...

There's no simple way of locating the break, and it's likely to be at the point at which the wire
exits the sensor or mount in which case it is rather awkward to fix.

James

[Saint]

"James Annan" <still_the_same_me@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:3F129A3A.9000001@hotmail.com...
> Chris Malcolm wrote:
>
> >>3. If it's still not working but problems 1 and 2 are eliminated, one of the wires is probably
> >> broken and you need a new sensor kit.
> >
> >
> > Unless of course you can fix a broken wire...
>
> There's no simple way of locating the break, and it's likely to be at the point at which the wire
> exits the sensor or mount in which case it is rather awkward to fix.
>
> James

Thanks to all - problem was the handlebar mount and is now fixed.

Much obliged

Saint

[Chris Malcolm]

James Annan <still_the_same_me@hotmail.com> writes:

>Chris Malcolm wrote:

>>>3. If it's still not working but problems 1 and 2 are eliminated, one of the wires is probably
>>> broken and you need a new sensor kit.
>>
>>
>> Unless of course you can fix a broken wire...

>There's no simple way of locating the break, and it's likely to be at the point at which the wire
>exits the sensor or mount in which case it is rather awkward to fix.

It's very simple if you have a continuity tester or meter, plus a thin needle to push through the
wire. As you say, it's usually the solder or crimp joint to the mounting. Whether that's awkward to
fix depends on your tools and skills. On long trips I always carry a multitool of the pliers sort,
plus a small gas soldering iron, so that I can do repairs like that by the roadside. In my
experience computer cable mounting failure is the most common mode of failure of these units.

--
Chris Malcolm cam@inf.ed.ac.uk +44 (0)131 650 3085 DoD #205 School of Informatics, Edinburgh
University, 5 Forrest Hill, Edinburgh, EH1 2QL, UK. [http://www.dai.ed.ac.uk/homes/cam/ ]