dura-ace wheels problem
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Hello everybody
A new man on the forum and i was wondering if anybody uses the dura-ace wh7800 wheels have truing problems.Every now and then my wheels need truing and i have only ride them for about 1000km.Not very hard riding though.Most of the km in flat roads.I weight at 95kg maybe this is the reason for the problem.
Hello everybody
A new man on the forum and i was wondering if anybody uses the dura-ace wh7800 wheels have truing problems.Every now and then my wheels need truing and i have only ride them for about 1000km.Not very hard riding though.Most of the km in flat roads.I weight at 95kg maybe this is the reason for the problem.
Wheels need to be trued - some more than others. I have AC350 sprints, and I have to true them every 500-700 mi. or so, but I do weigh in at 188 lbs. It's not a wheel defect, it's just that after a lot of riding the spokes can lose their proper tension.
Wheels need to be trued - some more than others. I have AC350 sprints, and I have to true them every 500-700 mi. or so, but I do weigh in at 188 lbs. It's not a wheel defect, it's just that after a lot of riding the spokes can lose their proper tension.500-700 miles is not a lot of riding. And you're still well under the weight spec.
There's no weight recomendation for the Dura Ace wheels, but in general a set of wheels that are properly matched to your size and riding conditions shouldn't need truing unless you crash them.
Hello everybody
A new man on the forum and i was wondering if anybody uses the dura-ace wh7800 wheels have truing problems.Every now and then my wheels need truing and i have only ride them for about 1000km.Not very hard riding though.Most of the km in flat roads.I weight at 95kg maybe this is the reason for the problem.
Weight is the number one factor in wheel loading.
Spoke tension is important is keeping the wheels properly supported. If you ever completely have a spoke go to zero tension it's associated nipple will unwind some; causing the wheel to go untrue.
Solutions:
1. using maximum recommended spoke tension for the wheel. Get the specifications from Shimano. I have seen 160 kgf numbers for some Shimano wheels, but I don't have the numbers for 7800.
2. using wheels that are stiffer to keep spokes from going slack. Stiffer rims and higher spoke count both help here.
Velocity Deep V with at least 32 spokes in the rear wheel is a good combination for riders of your weight.
Maybe the best thing is to loose some weight after all.Thanks for the help anyway.
Believe this or not but I've probably got at least 5000 miles on my 7800 wheels and most of the riding is done on some of the gnarliest, pothole infested roads out there and I have yet to true them. I've never had wheels this tough. My only complaint is that every brand of tire is very difficult to change.
Believe this or not but I've probably got at least 5000 miles on my 7800 wheels and most of the riding is done on some of the gnarliest, pothole infested roads out there and I have yet to true them. I've never had wheels this tough. My only complaint is that every brand of tire is very difficult to change.
What is your weight anyway?I am already on a diet it will be good for my climbing abilities not only for the wheels i think.
hi,
i'm a least 100kgs and ride on velocity deep vees with 24 flat bladed spokes on the rear and 20 on the front.
had them for about 6 months and 3900km on mainly flat roads but with occassional pot hole.
when new the wheels need truing after a week's riding.
after truing i applied whick in loctite to each nipple both to the exposed end and in in the drillings in the rim.
it was a little difficult to apply thru the drillings because of the deep vee.
but i got some in anyway.
importantly i applied to the spoke nipple interface.
i suspended my bike from the roof of my workshop and applied it to the nipple when each spoke was at 6 o'clock, and progressively turned ech spoke thru the 6 o'clock position.
the whick in locktite just disappears into down the nippe by osmosis.
anyway after 6 months and 3900 km the wheels are still true.
i assume the wheels were de-stressed by my riding in the 1st week and after truing and locktite application the nipples haven't moved and so the wheel has stayed true.
The whick in loctite is a low to medium strength product so undoing later is not a problem.
i would have thought for my weight 24R/20F flat bladed wheels would have been a little light but the combo of good rim ie velicity deep vee and lock tite has enabled them to do the job.
atb
glenn
Weight is the number one factor in wheel loading.
Spoke tension is important is keeping the wheels properly supported. If you ever completely have a spoke go to zero tension it's associated nipple will unwind some; causing the wheel to go untrue.
Solutions:
1. using maximum recommended spoke tension for the wheel. Get the specifications from Shimano. I have seen 160 kgf numbers for some Shimano wheels, but I don't have the numbers for 7800.
2. using wheels that are stiffer to keep spokes from going slack. Stiffer rims and higher spoke count both help here.
Velocity Deep V with at least 32 spokes in the rear wheel is a good combination for riders of your weight.
Hello everybody
A new man on the forum and i was wondering if anybody uses the dura-ace wh7800 wheels have truing problems.Every now and then my wheels need truing and i have only ride them for about 1000km.Not very hard riding though.Most of the km in flat roads.I weight at 95kg maybe this is the reason for the problem.
re-curring going out of true problems need to be properly diagnosed by someone with a lot of experience at lacing and building wheels. Sounds to me that your wheels were never properly tensioned to start with and were not properly re-trued in the other cases as well. Your wheel is a strong wheel and should not go out of true as quickly as it is going out of true for you. Weight on the wheel will tend to break spokes, not cause the wheel to go out of true.
If it were me I'd have the lacing taken apart, cleaning the threads and use new nipples with anti-seize and get it re-laced by someone who uses a spoke tension gauge.
re-curring going out of true problems need to be properly diagnosed by someone with a lot of experience at lacing and building wheels. Sounds to me that your wheels were never properly tensioned to start with and were not properly re-trued in the other cases as well. Your wheel is a strong wheel and should not go out of true as quickly as it is going out of true for you. Weight on the wheel will tend to break spokes, not cause the wheel to go out of true.
If it were me I'd have the lacing taken apart, cleaning the threads and use new nipples with anti-seize and get it re-laced by someone who uses a spoke tension gauge.
Your response is a mixture of truth and fiction.
Wheels do go out of true when spokes go to zero tension as nipples tend to back off. When the cycle is repeated the problem gets worse because the spoke that went slack before now has even less static tension.
More spokes make the wheel stiffer and less likely to have any spoke go to zero tension. Stiffer rim also helps in two ways:
1. less rim flexing as dynamic riding loads are presented;
2. more spokes are involved in the load effected area.
Dynamic loading in a wheel requires that no spoke go to zero tension as the rim support is provided by spoke tension alone.
Anything that "helps" keep a nipple from un-winding when the spoke goes to zero tension is a remedial solution, but not a good solution for a strong and durable wheel. Loctite or any other method of securing the threads of the nipple to the spoke only keep the nipple from unwinding, but it doesn't resolve the requirement that spokes must always act in tension to support the rim.
Wheels should be built with Pysics in mind. Force = Mass times Acelleration.
I supose that the problem may be more complicated than i thought.Any way i am geting very good advice here and i thank you all for your help.I will take my wheel of and will retight all the spokes if it is necesery.I have a good truing stand the ts-2 from park tool and some expirience from motorcycle wheels as my job is motorcycle mechanic.
Have a set of D/A wheels also....with over 10,000 miles on them, don't have a problem with keeping true, but as PARK said, "try getting any brand of tire on it." I found the Vredstein SL's the easiest, however, ordered a new custom made wheelset because of the tire changing issue.
Have a set of D/A wheels also....with over 10,000 miles on them, don't have a problem with keeping true, but as PARK said, "try getting any brand of tire on it." I found the Vredstein SL's the easiest, however, ordered a new custom made wheelset because of the tire changing issue.
I thought it was just me. I'm getting older and thought my grip strength was going or something. If you could only see the vein popping grimace and hear the accompanying stream of profanity when trying to muscle tires on and off these wheels. A friend witnessed this and politely asked me to step aside so he could take over. Oh, the satisfaction of seeing him rip skin off fingers while screaming "GOD DAMN!!!" was so gratifying.
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