yaboo81
Im 1.68 tall and my boad bike a Raleigh Peleton is 54cm large is this bike too big for me as a beginer should i be worried
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capwater
Im 1.68 tall and my boad bike a Raleigh Peleton is 54cm large is this bike too big for me as a beginer should i be worried
Not enough information. What is your inseam?
Check out this fit calculator: http://www.swanseawheelers.co.uk/bikefit.php
Not enough information. What is your inseam?
Check out this fit calculator: http://www.swanseawheelers.co.uk/bikefit.php
yaboo81
Not enough information. What is your inseam?
Check out this fit calculator: http://www.swanseawheelers.co.uk/bikefit.php
My inseam is 78 cm according to the website i need a 52.3cm frame mine is 54 does this make a massive difference i have just started cycling and will be looking to complete races not win any.
Thank you for your time
Check out this fit calculator: http://www.swanseawheelers.co.uk/bikefit.php
My inseam is 78 cm according to the website i need a 52.3cm frame mine is 54 does this make a massive difference i have just started cycling and will be looking to complete races not win any.
Thank you for your time
capwater
My inseam is 78 cm according to the website i need a 52.3cm frame mine is 54 does this make a massive difference i have just started cycling and will be looking to complete races not win any.
Thank you for your time
I spec out at a tad under 53, yet ride 54s. Most sizes are even ie; 52, 54, 56. Even so, one manufacturer's 54 isn't going to be exactly like another. I would say the 54 is spot on for you.
Thank you for your time
I spec out at a tad under 53, yet ride 54s. Most sizes are even ie; 52, 54, 56. Even so, one manufacturer's 54 isn't going to be exactly like another. I would say the 54 is spot on for you.
alfeng
Im 1.68 tall and my boad bike a Raleigh Peleton is 54cm large is this bike too big for me as a beginer should i be worriedSo-called proper FRAME SIZE is a matter of the times one lives in, the bike shop's preference and your aesthetics to name just three factors.
A bazilliion years ago, when I bought my first "10-speed" bike, it was a 24" (c-c) Gitane ... I'm about 5'9" (175cm), and may have been an inch shorter at the time! Can you believe the bike shop sold me THAT LARGE a bike?!?
If you look at some vintage photographs of some non-racer bikes, you will see that the seatpost exposure was often minimal (implying a fairly LARGE seat tube size for the rider).
Nonetheless, because I thought it was a comfortable ride, when I got my "second" bike I was perplexed as to what size frame I should buy -- I opted for a 57cm (c-c) Fuji because the TOP TUBE was the same length as the top tube on my Gitane.
My current frames are 52cm & 53cm (c-c); but, the stem is 2cm longer which pretty much results in the same REACH. I mostly ride on the tops/hoods instead of the drops (as I did in my "youth"), so my riding position is intermediate to where it was way-back-when -- the ATTACHED picture is my 52cm (c-c) "Winter" bike ... the top of the saddle is 28.25" above the center of the BB ... the cranks are 175mm.
Rivendell STILL recommends the larger-than-you'd-think sizing because they believe that the top of the bars should be even with the saddle.
Based on the bikes a few people I know have bought from a local bike shop here (Albuquerque, NM), they recommend custom builds with frames that are 3cm-to-4cm larger than I would personally suggest ... but, they didn't ask me AND may not care what I think even now ...
One method of frame sizing that I deduced a bazillion years ago was that the rider should be able to grab the exposed seatpost with their hand. Obviously, hand width varies, but smaller riders generally have smaller hands, so there is SOME aesthetic proportionality; but, as I noted, that was my aesthetic a bazillion years ago when I could just barely wrap my squeezed hand onto the exposed seatpost of my Gitane after I already had the bike ... it almost looks as though the forementioned bike shop sizes frames with almost that methodology.
So, frame size REALLY IS ARBITRARY; and, your aesthetics and fitness should be the guide; but, for someone your height (without knowing your body proportions), I would suppose a frame with a ~52cm toptube + 8cm-or-9cm stem would probably be more comfortable (usually found on a 50cm frame) ... basically, you might be more comfortable on a 50cm (c-c) frame OR you may want to flip your stem (if it is attached to a threadless steerer) to raise your handlebars which will more-or-less equate to smaller frame by changing your riding.
BTW. With my Gitane and Fuji frames, I would lean the bike to the right (toward the curb) when I stopped ...
A bazilliion years ago, when I bought my first "10-speed" bike, it was a 24" (c-c) Gitane ... I'm about 5'9" (175cm), and may have been an inch shorter at the time! Can you believe the bike shop sold me THAT LARGE a bike?!?
If you look at some vintage photographs of some non-racer bikes, you will see that the seatpost exposure was often minimal (implying a fairly LARGE seat tube size for the rider).
Nonetheless, because I thought it was a comfortable ride, when I got my "second" bike I was perplexed as to what size frame I should buy -- I opted for a 57cm (c-c) Fuji because the TOP TUBE was the same length as the top tube on my Gitane.
My current frames are 52cm & 53cm (c-c); but, the stem is 2cm longer which pretty much results in the same REACH. I mostly ride on the tops/hoods instead of the drops (as I did in my "youth"), so my riding position is intermediate to where it was way-back-when -- the ATTACHED picture is my 52cm (c-c) "Winter" bike ... the top of the saddle is 28.25" above the center of the BB ... the cranks are 175mm.
Rivendell STILL recommends the larger-than-you'd-think sizing because they believe that the top of the bars should be even with the saddle.
Based on the bikes a few people I know have bought from a local bike shop here (Albuquerque, NM), they recommend custom builds with frames that are 3cm-to-4cm larger than I would personally suggest ... but, they didn't ask me AND may not care what I think even now ...
One method of frame sizing that I deduced a bazillion years ago was that the rider should be able to grab the exposed seatpost with their hand. Obviously, hand width varies, but smaller riders generally have smaller hands, so there is SOME aesthetic proportionality; but, as I noted, that was my aesthetic a bazillion years ago when I could just barely wrap my squeezed hand onto the exposed seatpost of my Gitane after I already had the bike ... it almost looks as though the forementioned bike shop sizes frames with almost that methodology.
So, frame size REALLY IS ARBITRARY; and, your aesthetics and fitness should be the guide; but, for someone your height (without knowing your body proportions), I would suppose a frame with a ~52cm toptube + 8cm-or-9cm stem would probably be more comfortable (usually found on a 50cm frame) ... basically, you might be more comfortable on a 50cm (c-c) frame OR you may want to flip your stem (if it is attached to a threadless steerer) to raise your handlebars which will more-or-less equate to smaller frame by changing your riding.
BTW. With my Gitane and Fuji frames, I would lean the bike to the right (toward the curb) when I stopped ...
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