Creaky Cranks - How to resolve, or throw?
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Hi people, I have a creaky left hand crank on my Record 2003 carbon cranks, the first generation ones. Because of the taper being where it is in the crank revolution, Campagnolo must have changed the position to better iron out the force of the pedal stroke - because when you try to put a later crank on to match the drive side, it is one eigth of a turn off - so not to be at 6 o'clock position, more like 7 o'clock. Problem: got a decent drive side, and a worn non drive side crank - does anyone have an idea of how to stop the play / creak, or where I can get a 2003 Record Carbon Crank? Already tried 'mends metal' type of product, and fitting an old style feeler gague down the side of the bracket to take up the slack, but both no good. the hole in the crank is a little mis-shapen. ANY IDEAS?
Hi people, I have a creaky left hand crank on my Record 2003 carbon cranks, the first generation ones. Because of the taper being where it is in the crank revolution, Campagnolo must have changed the position to better iron out the force of the pedal stroke - because when you try to put a later crank on to match the drive side, it is one eigth of a turn off - so not to be at 6 o'clock position, more like 7 o'clock. Problem: got a decent drive side, and a worn non drive side crank - does anyone have an idea of how to stop the play / creak, or where I can get a 2003 Record Carbon Crank? Already tried 'mends metal' type of product, and fitting an old style feeler gague down the side of the bracket to take up the slack, but both no good. the hole in the crank is a little mis-shapen. ANY IDEAS?
Well you could try a Campy parts shop like Branfordbike.com and order a new left arm. Another thought, with campy redesigning their crank bb design for 2007, you may be able to find a good deal on an older Record crank set. I bought one on e-bay for $108 and it was in perfect shape, not a single worn tooth, scratch or shoe mark on it.
Hi people, I have a creaky left hand crank on my Record 2003 carbon cranks, the first generation ones. Because of the taper being where it is in the crank revolution, Campagnolo must have changed the position to better iron out the force of the pedal stroke - because when you try to put a later crank on to match the drive side, it is one eigth of a turn off - so not to be at 6 o'clock position, more like 7 o'clock. Problem: got a decent drive side, and a worn non drive side crank - does anyone have an idea of how to stop the play / creak, or where I can get a 2003 Record Carbon Crank? Already tried 'mends metal' type of product, and fitting an old style feeler gague down the side of the bracket to take up the slack, but both no good. the hole in the crank is a little mis-shapen. ANY IDEAS?I only have ALLOY Campagnolo Record & Chorus cranks, but your description doesn't sound feasible ...
OR, there is something drastically wrong with either your crank arm(s) OR the BB spindle OR both/(all three!) ... when you have the chance, you should remove the drive side crank and inspect it for distortion or displacement of the aluminum sleeve ...
Regardless, because it sounds as though the spindle sleeve on your drive side has displaced/distorted, too, a replacement crank arm (as you describe it) won't do you any good.
Get some thin, brass stock/sheet from a craft & hobby store and try to shim your crank's tapers -- this is not a willy-nilly process ...
Shimming a drive side should be avoided as alignment issues may arise with the chainrings whereas on the non-drive side as much as a 1º variance probably won't have a significant impact.
My 05 cranks were creaking and kept getting loose. Finally wrapped it up with plumbers tape and the problem is solved.
I had a creak on each pedal stroke going up hills - turned out to be play between the Campy BB cartridge and the press fit fixing cups - my mechanic recommended Loctite 660 - an epoxy resin - you slide the cups off , clean the bearing surfaces , and then apply a thin layer around the entire surface - slide the cups back on, reassemble everything , let it sit overnight - no more creaking !!!!!
Sometimes the machining tolerance between cup and cartridge is such that there is play when the spindles are torqued - Loctite 660 takes up the space - it's an amazing solution for this particular creaking sound.
Well you could try a Campy parts shop like Branfordbike.com and order a new left arm. Another thought, with campy redesigning their crank bb design for 2007, you may be able to find a good deal on an older Record crank set. I bought one on e-bay for $108 and it was in perfect shape, not a single worn tooth, scratch or shoe mark on it.
Most of the ones that I am finding on E Bay are newer finish record ones, but I wanted to keep the 'old' weave pattern as it matches the weave on the De Rosa Merak that I have, but I'm still looking, trouble is, paying more for one arm than an entire chainset makes precious little sense anyway!
I only have ALLOY Campagnolo Record & Chorus cranks, but your description doesn't sound feasible ...
OR, there is something drastically wrong with either your crank arm(s) OR the BB spindle OR both/(all three!) ... when you have the chance, you should remove the drive side crank and inspect it for distortion or displacement of the aluminum sleeve ...
Regardless, because it sounds as though the spindle sleeve on your drive side has displaced/distorted, too, a replacement crank arm (as you describe it) won't do you any good.
Get some thin, brass stock/sheet from a craft & hobby store and try to shim your crank's tapers -- this is not a willy-nilly process ...
Shimming a drive side should be avoided as alignment issues may arise with the chainrings whereas on the non-drive side as much as a 1º variance probably won't have a significant impact.
I also have alloy, on my winter bike, and it's never been a problem, but I can see inside the left crank that it is slightly distorted, I have tried the shimming, with steel shims from 0.05mm but you can hear the creak after two or three revolutions - the problem only exists on the non drive side.
My 05 cranks were creaking and kept getting loose. Finally wrapped it up with plumbers tape and the problem is solved.
Tried it - nope, still creaky.
I had a creak on each pedal stroke going up hills - turned out to be play between the Campy BB cartridge and the press fit fixing cups - my mechanic recommended Loctite 660 - an epoxy resin - you slide the cups off , clean the bearing surfaces , and then apply a thin layer around the entire surface - slide the cups back on, reassemble everything , let it sit overnight - no more creaking !!!!!
Sometimes the machining tolerance between cup and cartridge is such that there is play when the spindles are torqued - Loctite 660 takes up the space - it's an amazing solution for this particular creaking sound.
It's definitely crank arms, just put the alloy chainset on, and hey presto - no creak! Still seeking a solution.......or a new 2003 left record carbon crank.
I also have alloy, on my winter bike, and it's never been a problem, but I can see inside the left crank that it is slightly distorted, I have tried the shimming, with steel shims from 0.05mm but you can hear the creak after two or three revolutions - the problem only exists on the non drive side.If you use some BRASS foil/sheet, I think you will have slightly more satisfactory results with shims because brass has a natural lubricity (hence, less likelihood of creaking -- brass was/(is?) often used for the helical coils in camera lenses), and is just soft enough that it will deform a bit more readily under the pressure exerted from installation & use to better fill any void which may have been caused through deformation.
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