Entry level commuter bike?

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I'm considering commuting the 24 miles each way to work, a few days a week. I've commutted 16 miles on a wornout Mongoose switchback a few times. The bike had 2.0 tires and was in bad shape!
- I'm looking for a low budget commute bike for $600 or less. And i have considered adding an electric hub or honda gx31( chain drive) to get up the big hills. Do the low budget bikes have a higher maintence schedule?
- Is the trek portland worth $1,600?
- If i'm wanting internal hubs and a disk brake, would i be better off updating my Switchback?

You can still get a Cadillac AV-8 for $229 on Amazon. I don't know why they are blowing them out like this. Buy the bike, take the wheels off, and put them on a mountain frame and you'll have an 8-speed internal hub and drum brakes front and rear. You may have to fabricate a simple reaction arm holder for the front disc brake, which you can bolt to disc brake mounts on a mountain fork.

I got one but was a bit strapped for cash so thought I would just ride it as a comfort bike. The hub is quite smooth. It does seem a bit harder to pedal unless you control the bobbing of the suspension.

Are the internal hubs going to survive the commute? Is this a low quality part?
Any idea what the gear ratio is?
Does everything bolt right on?
How are the drum brakes in the rain? Any idea on maintence on the brakes?
Sounds like it might work on my worn out mongoose switchback (hybrid).

I have not actually converted a bike so I don't know.

The drums are marvelous in the rain and after taking up the initial slack I have not had to touch them. The front hub has cartridge bearings.

The bottom bracket is standard but you might need to use a crank from a derailleur bike in order to be able to change your chainline.

The fork has some kind of oversize, threaded headset but looks like a standard 1" threaded steerer. You may need to buy a new headset. If you don't use the cadillac fork you will need to fabricate a sturdy attachment for the brake's reaction arm. It doesn't line up with the fork so you can't just use a simple strap like a coaster brake bike.

The hub is spaced 131mm. You may need shim washers to get it to work with your spacing. It is a smooth working hub but shifter adjustment can be a bit finicky.

I have basically put about 2-300 miles on mine without modifying it. Perhaps the hub would break if not for the suspension, but that would be out of character for Sturmey-Archer; their hubs are rugged. However, the 8-speed is new; I never saw one for sale until last year. Neither I nor I bet anyone else knows for sure how the 8-speed will hold up long term.

Basically I think you could commute on the bike as-is, though the lack of fender mounts hinders its all-weather usability. I am sure Cadillac used the internal gear hubs and drum brakes because comfort users would find them clean and hassle-free. There's also not much room for a luggage rack.

Other bikes with 8-speed hubs seem to sell for $800. I don't know why these are so cheap. There is certainly no reason yet apparent.

The wheels are 26" MTB size, the sprocket is 25T, the chainring is 33T, first gear is 1:1, 8th gear is +205% (305% total range). I can spin up most hills with it pretty easy, although you have to learn to pedal in circles or else it will bob and eat up some of your energy.

3years ago I decided to commute to work to save buying an additional car. I bought a new Giant Cypress R. It has a high enough gearing for a pleasurable highway ride plus a granny gear for the steep hills.I put a cheap rack on it and got a set of small panniers to carry my stuff. 15,000 kilometers later carrying my 220 lbs. this bike is still running well, just keep it clean and lubricated. A pretty good purchase for $400 canadian.

That's the route I went when I needed a commuter a few years ago: basic LBS machine. I got an MTB though, because the wide tires are better on gravel shoulders. It worked great. V-brakes are fine in the rain given good pads and aluminum rims.

I got the Caddy last year because by then I had a couple of other working bikes and could afford to tinker around with it, leave it partially disassembled, etc.

www.bicycling.com Bicycling magazine listed some commuter bikes in their buyer guide (april 2006). All of them are $500 or less. Any comments on the bikes listed below. It's strange that people spend $10,000 for velomobiles!
khs ....urban-x
raleigh ....passage 4.0
giant.... cypress lx
scott usa ...sub30
I would consider a road bike with upright handlebars.

Check out the Scott Sub 10, a cross town rocket! :cool:

hey man this towns only big enough for one sideshowbob .. pistols at dawn should settle it

--brett

www.bicycling.com (http://www.bicycling.com/) Bicycling magazine listed some commuter bikes in their buyer guide (april 2006). All of them are $500 or less. Any comments on the bikes listed below. It's strange that people spend $10,000 for velomobiles!
khs ....urban-x
raleigh ....passage 4.0
giant.... cypress lx
scott usa ...sub30
I would consider a road bike with upright handlebars.
I noticed the second-from-cheapest KHS has a Reynolds 531 frame. It's about $370.

I think we should have a poll! Sideshow Bob and Sideshowbob will both set up inexpensive commuters and whoever makes the wiser choice according to the poll can keep their name, and the other has to be Sideshow Mel (or Sideshowmel as you prefer.):D

I'm considering commuting the 24 miles each way to work, a few days a week. I've commutted 16 miles on a wornout Mongoose switchback a few times. The bike had 2.0 tires and was in bad shape!
- I'm looking for a low budget commute bike for $600 or less. And i have considered adding an electric hub or honda gx31( chain drive) to get up the big hills. Do the low budget bikes have a higher maintence schedule?
- Is the trek portland worth $1,600?
- If i'm wanting internal hubs and a disk brake, would i be better off updating my Switchback?Okay, if you are moderately handy OR have a friend who is, you can probably convert your Mongoose (or, any other "moutain" bike) bike to accept 700c wheels ... (see attached picture of MY Mongoose Switchback prior to mounting the chain & wrapping the bars [I needed to wait for an extra computer harness]).

An FSA ISIS road crank was mounted on a 118mm ISIS bottom bracket which would normally be used with a "regular" MTB triple ... less than $100US.

Tektro LONG REACH brakes work for the rear (less than $50US) ... the "back" of the fender mounting hole was enlarged to accept the brake's recessed nut.

I mounted a road fork & the front caliper from the Tektro pair fits ... you can substitute a 700c cyclocross fork (less than $100US) if you are planning to use fenders (recommended!).

You can try the bars you are using right now, first, and change the bars & shifters to road bars & shifters, later (or, not!).

Campagnolo ERGO shfiters (I'm using Shimano derailleurs) + road bars + handlebar tape ... easily, under $200US. Shimano shifters will cost MORE and be generally less efficient, IMO ...

A pair of 700c "hybrid" wheels will cost you less than $100 ... ROAD wheels will cost as much/little as you want (the rear needs to be on a 135mm hub, of course). Since I lace my own wheels, putting a "regular"/622-13 700c road rim on a 135mm hub wasn't a big deal.

The BB height is a little higher than on a road bike ... hey, better for curb hopping!

alfeng- Looks like you turned your hybrid into a road bike. Those handlebars are straight off a road bike. I have a few questions......
Whats the reason to change the cranks?
Do 700c have less rolling ressistence or lower weight? Higher chance of getting a flat?

Anyway, The sub20, sub30 ,and speedster s60 flatbar look good.

alfeng- Looks like you turned your hybrid into a road bike. Those handlebars are straight off a road bike. I have a few questions......
Whats the reason to change the cranks?
Do 700c have less rolling ressistence or lower weight? Higher chance of getting a flat?

Anyway, The sub20, sub30 ,and speedster s60 flatbar look good.Yes, all of the components on my Mongoose except for the rear hub, front derailleur & seatpost are currently road bike components.

MY Mongoose Switchback is an "old" MTB hardtail (note the position of the rear brake bosses relative to the rim which are positioned for 26" MTB rims) ... it is an extra frame that I wasn't using ...

FWIW. My other MTB is an older steel Trek that has received token upgrades to preclude my spending real money on a new full suspension MTB which I undoubtedly wouldn't ride due to time spent road riding!

Consequently, my Mongoose was basically reconfigured for road riding ... 700c wheels definitely have a lower weight ... not necessarily less rolling resistance than a slick on a MTB wheel ... I suppose there is a higher chance of getting flats ...

FWIW2. At almost any time, I guess I could turn it into an "off-road" bike by swapping the road fork for either a CX fork or a 29er disc (solid) fork that I have (either would have raised the front end, but allowed larger tires) & swapping the crank ... the current rear derailleur is an Ultegra, but I'd want a derailleur with a longer cage if I put a MTB crank on the bike.

The frame and (more importantly) the Tektro rear brake caliper will accept a 700x42/"hybrid" tire. The current front fork can only handle a 700x25 tire.

The road crank, of course, gives higher gearing which is generally a good thing for road riding. Shimano has a 48t 104BCD/4-arm chainring which should work for you (presuming your crank is a 4-arm 104BCD type, that is!).

You can update your Mongoose (or, almost any other MTB frame) in a similar fashion. I already had most of the parts, but you could do it easily for under $600 in parts -- of course, you could spend either-more-or-less depending on the level of components you opted for.

By my reckoning, it is better to spend $600 than $1400 for a commuter-type bike.

- Is the trek portland worth $1,600?Most definitely, although putting full coverage fenders on makes it even better. You should be able to find it for about $1400 street value rather than Trek's suggested retail price. When it comes to price, you get what you pay for. After comparing costs of a vehicle (insurance, upkeep, gas) it's a small price to pay for a very functional and lively ride.

I'll keep the switchback as it is. I'd need a backup bike anyway. I'm not knowledgeable enough to get the right parts off ebay. I'm sure a lbs would charge over $600 for the basics.
I stopped by a lbs that sells scott and trek. Heres a break down.
I told him i was wanting to commute 24 miles each way. He suggested a cyclocross bike that was $1,000. I commented that the semi smooth/knobbies might slow me down.
I mentioned the sub20 and 30. He suggested going with the sub classic "700c" due to my height (6'1). He commented the sub wouldn't be a good commute bike for a long distance. I did comment on the portland. I can't remember his comment.
I mentioned the speedster but wanted a more upright h/b stem.. He suggested going with a wider tire on the speedster for a more dependable commute. He suggest not going with the s60/s60 flatbar due to the components qualty.48 miles a day would wear them out quickly. Suggested the s50 and s40 though.
I'd put my vote toward the cyclocross bike.

I'll keep the switchback as it is. I'd need a backup bike anyway. I'm not knowledgeable enough to get the right parts off ebay. I'm sure a lbs would charge over $600 for the basics.
I stopped by a lbs that sells scott and trek. Heres a break down.
I told him i was wanting to commute 24 miles each way. He suggested a cyclocross bike that was $1,000. I commented that the semi smooth/knobbies might slow me down.
I mentioned the sub20 and 30. He suggested going with the sub classic "700c" due to my height (6'1). He commented the sub wouldn't be a good commute bike for a long distance. I did comment on the portland. I can't remember his comment.
I mentioned the speedster but wanted a more upright h/b stem.. He suggested going with a wider tire on the speedster for a more dependable commute. He suggest not going with the s60/s60 flatbar due to the components qualty.48 miles a day would wear them out quickly. Suggested the s50 and s40 though.
I'd put my vote toward the cyclocross bike.Minimally, you could change the MTB crankset to a ROAD crankset ... that will give you

I don't know what kind of BB the frame came with since I got the frame separately.

$100 should cover your immediate expense for a TRIPLE + BB ... you could spend more ... you could spend less. You should be able to get a Shimano 6503/Ultegra triple + 118mm OCTALINK bottom for about that much ... certainly, for less than that if you find a used set. You can ALWAYS re-use the crank on a different frame, later, and/or re-sell it.

Of course, you'll want a new pair of 26" road slicks ...

Unless you are just aching to spend real money right now on a new bike, AFTER you ride that set up (ROAD triple + new tires) on your Mongoose, then you can think about other changes OR spending more money on a "new" bike.

After thinking about it, i doubt i would spend $1,000 for a bike. I'd spend $600 at most. And i doubt i'd ever commute 24 miles (48 miles) to work. At most, i'll commute to my 2nd job this summer.
Yeah, i do need to upgrade my crank. I run out of gear and it limits my average speed to 12mph. I upgraded the tires to kenda quest (559-1.50) a while back and its less of a workout, but limits my top speed( smaller tire).
Are the prices( for the parts) listed above what it would cost at a lbs? I'd need a c/f fork and seat post, derailleurs, shifters and brakes also.

After thinking about it, i doubt i would spend $1,000 for a bike. I'd spend $600 at most. And i doubt i'd ever commute 24 miles (48 miles) to work. At most, i'll commute to my 2nd job this summer.
Yeah, i do need to upgrade my crank. I run out of gear and it limits my average speed to 12mph. I upgraded the tires to kenda quest (559-1.50) a while back and its less of a workout, but limits my top speed( smaller tire).
Are the prices( for the parts) listed above what it would cost at a lbs? I'd need a c/f fork and seat post, derailleurs, shifters and brakes also.FIRST, sorry about all the text-dropout in my last reply & NOT reading it before posting it ... sheesh, talk about needing to read-between-the-lines!

Those are NOT LBS prices ... they are "eBay" prices ...

You don't need a carbon fiber fork, in fact, I would recommend that you get a steel cyclocross-type/touring fork if you are going to swap to 700c wheels to maintain the potential of "fat" tire capability. I only used a carbon fork because it was an "extra" fork I had lying around. A steel road fork with fender eyelets would have been the BEST option, IMO.

Heck, consider making only one-change-at-a-time ...

You may find that if you change to a ROAD triple -- the 9-speed Ultegra comes with a 53/42/30 combination, BTW -- and still need/want a higher gear, that a 54t or 55t time-trial chainring will more than suffice.

On eBay, I think s/lightly used, older Ultegra 6503 triples (worth the modest new-price/retail premium over the 105 just for the self-extracting bolts) go for about $65-to-whatever on eBay (sometimes less!) + whatever the BB may cost (a 105 Octalink BB will work, too). I think the mail-order price (if available as old stock in some catalogs) is about $100 + the cost of the BB. A lot of people don't/didn't want 175mm cranks, so were changing lengths with what may have come on the bike.

I happen to have a 118mm ISIS BB & FSA ISIS road crank (a double) on mine as a matter of chance (more, accumulated "extra" stuff, otherwise I would have used my "extra" Ultegra crank & BB ... but, I originally set it up with some 9-speed 105 shifters + the 8-speed fron derailleur, and I didn't want to fiddle with indexing the triple with that combination). The new ISIS crank & BB probably cost me about $80 on eBay (after including shipping from two different auctions) ... I could have paid less at the time, but I would easily have paid more at my LBS.

If your bike has a square taper, then almost any older/used SHIMANO road crank will probably do (not an overwhelming choice of road triples available which have square taper).

BTW. Why would you need to change the seatpost?