Powertap coming tomorrow. Easy to install?

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My new PT SL on Mavic Open Pro will be here tomorrow. I'm sure there are a bunch of instructions included and stuff, but in a nutshell will I be able to ride tomorrow or will I be installing this device all weekend you think?

My new PT SL on Mavic Open Pro will be here tomorrow. I'm sure there are a bunch of instructions included and stuff, but in a nutshell will I be able to ride tomorrow or will I be installing this device all weekend you think?

providing you know how to put a tyre and a cassette on your wheel, and you can neatly install the receiver kit on your bike, that should take about 15-mins to do at the very most. You then need to read the manual and set the computer up (probably do this in 30-mins; reading and set up). Then check it downloads correctly (spin the cranks/wheels for 30-secs to collect some dummy data). Set up the programme (WKO or Power Tuned) and download data - that's another 10-mins.

ZERO THE TORQUE - then go for a ride.

The Power Tap is the easiest of all the power meters to get started with

Ric

and the PT SL 2.4 (wireless) is even easier !!!!!!!!!

My new PT SL on Mavic Open Pro will be here tomorrow. I'm sure there are a bunch of instructions included and stuff, but in a nutshell will I be able to ride tomorrow or will I be installing this device all weekend you think?It took me 15minutes for the initial hub-only installation. And another 30 minutes to reroute the cables to incorporate the crank sensor when I found out that it was more accurate that way.

Use the crank sensor and turn off the hub cadence -- you'll get more stable power readings.

It took me 15minutes for the initial hub-only installation. And another 30 minutes to reroute the cables to incorporate the crank sensor when I found out that it was more accurate that way.

Use the crank sensor and turn off the hub cadence -- you'll get more stable power readings.

the cadence/crank sensor has no bearing whatsoever on the power readings.

ric

the cadence/crank sensor has no bearing whatsoever on the power readings.
ricWith all due respect, how could that be, Ric? Power = Torque x Cadence. If cadence goes noise-crazy, it can't help but affect the power reading.

I saw a posting that definitively showed the difference in cadence between a hub-only set-up and a crank-only set-up. The hub cadence sensor seemed very very noisy and unstable.

With all due respect, how could that be, Ric? Power = Torque x Cadence. If cadence goes noise-crazy, it can't help but affect the power reading.

I saw a posting that definitively showed the difference in cadence between a hub-only set-up and a crank-only set-up. The hub cadence sensor seemed very very noisy and unstable.

Power = angular wheel velocity x torque inside hub

Ric

Power = angular wheel velocity x torque inside hub
RicI see. The sharkfin senses the wheel angular velocity and the hub senses the torque. The two values get multiplied independently of crank cadence.

Got it. My mistake.

In that case, what I should have said is that you'll get much better cadence readings if you use the crank-mounted cadence sensor, and turn off the hub cadence sensor.

I went through this process last weekend installing a PT Pro. Ran into one problem here ->http://www.cyclingforums.com/t419279.html. I suspect that my CPU is getting cadence data from the hub and not from the sensor for the same reason listed. I think it's worth noting for new PowerTap users that Cycling Peaks WKO+ is a really great tool for analyzing your ride data.

-fb

Thanks for the help. I got it working. It's a pretty neat device. The wheel is a bit out of true and I am having trouble installing the included software but not a big deal as I plan on buying software from Cycling Peaks anyway. The device confirmed why I get dropped a lot in centuries. I averaged 271w for 15 minutes on a steady 4-5% grade and I was in a world of hurt. But at least now I know I have to work harder.