Buying my first road bike!

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I was wondering if you all could give me some advice on what to look for in my first one? I'm not looking for a top-echelon bike, but I do intend on taking part in maybe a few amateur type shenanigans. I mainly want it for faster commuting. I'm hoping to not spend more than $200, but I am willing to spend what it takes to ensure a good bike, or even if you all could give me good leads for parts, it'd be really appreciated.

To give you all an idea of what I ride now:
1984 TREK 890
Shimano Deore 24spd System 3 front cogs 8 on the cassette
1.5 Slickasaurus Tires
Everything is steel, and I do mean everything but the pedals. Handlebars, seat post, fork, the cogs, and whatever else is supposed to be metal.
I can only imagine the weight on this thing.

I thank any help I receive in advance :)

I was wondering if you all could give me some advice on what to look for in my first one? I'm not looking for a top-echelon bike, but I do intend on taking part in maybe a few amateur type shenanigans. I mainly want it for faster commuting. I'm hoping to not spend more than $200, but I am willing to spend what it takes to ensure a good bike, or even if you all could give me good leads for parts, it'd be really appreciated.

To give you all an idea of what I ride now:
1984 TREK 890
Shimano Deore 24spd System 3 front cogs 8 on the cassette
1.5 Slickasaurus Tires
Everything is steel, and I do mean everything but the pedals. Handlebars, seat post, fork, the cogs, and whatever else is supposed to be metal.
I can only imagine the weight on this thing.

I thank any help I receive in advance :)
Unless your planning to buy second hand, I think you might have to stretch your budget a little

Unless your planning to buy second hand, I think you might have to stretch your budget a littleHm, ok then. What would you recommend?

Hm, ok then. What would you recommend?
Entry level road bikes from makers such as Giant, felt, Orbea etc... would be fine for what you want to do, they range from $700-900 here in Australia, obviously cheaper in the states, uk etc. Other wise you can buy a decent second hand bike for bout $500 Aus.

Thanks for the pointer!

What type of components would you all recommend I try and get on the bike if at all possible? I hear a lot of people telling me to get either 105's at minimum or some campy gear.

Also, are there any distinct disadvantages I'd notice with a triple crank? And could I combat them by merely removing the granny gear?

Thanks for the pointer!

What type of components would you all recommend I try and get on the bike if at all possible? I hear a lot of people telling me to get either 105's at minimum or some campy gear.

Also, are there any distinct disadvantages I'd notice with a triple crank? And could I combat them by merely removing the granny gear?
No disadvantages with a triple crank only that, all the serious cyclists use doubles ( tripple is seen as the easy way out ) 105 is great will be more expensive, sora or tiagra would do fine as an entry bike. All depends on your goals and if your planning to upgrade your bike in the near future or not.

Ok, big news! My family's putting in a thousand to help me out and I'm putting down half a thousand. I've got 1,500 to get myself a good racing bike with and here's what Also, I got recruited for a local cycling team, I suppose they got tired of me passing their racers on the path or something, ha ha.

At any rate, my coach said I need a minimum of 105's and should try to have as much carbon on my bike as possible.
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-CARBON-FIBER-ROAD-RACING-BIKE-w-Ultegra-105_W0QQitemZ170164099206QQihZ007QQcategoryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I was thinking of getting that one, anyone else have an idea?

I would be going to a local bike shop and getting a bike unless you definately know the size of the bike your after. Fit is the most important thing about a bicycle. If it doesn't fit you, it doesn't really matter how good the bike is, you will never enjoy it. Just something to think about. Definately go 105 or better.

Ok, big news! My family's putting in a thousand to help me out and I'm putting down half a thousand. I've got 1,500 to get myself a good racing bike with and here's what Also, I got recruited for a local cycling team, I suppose they got tired of me passing their racers on the path or something, ha ha.

At any rate, my coach said I need a minimum of 105's and should try to have as much carbon on my bike as possible.
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-CARBON-FIBER-ROAD-RACING-BIKE-w-Ultegra-105_W0QQitemZ170164099206QQihZ007QQcategoryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I was thinking of getting that one, anyone else have an idea?
I wouldn't be going for a triple ( 30 speed ) And definately go and get yourself fitted properly.

Ok , everyone. just a couple more things to ask, but again, thanks so much for all the help.

1. If I did get triple crank, could I then just remove the granny gear, or would this cause me some issues?
2. Correct me if I'm mistaken, but in order of effectiveness, does it go: 105, Ultrega 6600, Ultrega SL, and then Dura-Ace 7800 as the best?

Ok , everyone. just a couple more things to ask, but again, thanks so much for all the help.

1. If I did get triple crank, could I then just remove the granny gear, or would this cause me some issues?
2. Correct me if I'm mistaken, but in order of effectiveness, does it go: 105, Ultrega 6600, Ultrega SL, and then Dura-Ace 7800 as the best?



1st..go to LBS and get fitted....you should buy new, then your not stuck with someone elses problems and almost all bike shops offer one-year free maintenance a few offer free maintenance for the life of your bike...if you want 105 group on a new bike your probably going to spend atleast $800 minimum

Ok , everyone. just a couple more things to ask, but again, thanks so much for all the help.

1. If I did get triple crank, could I then just remove the granny gear, or would this cause me some issues?
2. Correct me if I'm mistaken, but in order of effectiveness, does it go: 105, Ultrega 6600, Ultrega SL, and then Dura-Ace 7800 as the best?
Just dont buy a tripple. I'm sure a coach wouldn't suggest a tripple.
And yes Dura ace, Ultegra, 105.

Just dont buy a tripple. I'm sure a coach wouldn't suggest a tripple.
And yes Dura ace, Ultegra, 105.What a load of rubbish! Its okay for people to say buy a double but they might not have any hills to climb and might be fitter or younger.


If you need a triple then buy a triple, I have ridden a Sora triple groupset for 4000 miles with no real problem, now its wearing out I am replacing it with 105 but I dont expect that much more from a 105.

What a load of rubbish! Its okay for people to say buy a double but they might not have any hills to climb and might be fitter or younger.


If you need a triple then buy a triple, I have ridden a Sora triple groupset for 4000 miles with no real problem, now its wearing out I am replacing it with 105 but I dont expect that much more from a 105.I have a training road bike right now with a double and I can ride it just fine, but the problem is, for my competition bike I'm literally finding tons of great deals on these bikes (105 or better and full CF), but a lot of them are triple crank.

I really am considering buying a triple and then jsut removing the granny gear, but how much trouble would this then raise for me?

What a load of rubbish! Its okay for people to say buy a double but they might not have any hills to climb and might be fitter or younger.


If you need a triple then buy a triple, I have ridden a Sora triple groupset for 4000 miles with no real problem, now its wearing out I am replacing it with 105 but I dont expect that much more from a 105.
If you read the thread, Mark e is going to ride for a squad, so hence the fitness is obviously there. I'm not saying triple is bad, it's just 99% of people dont race with it.

I have a training road bike right now with a double and I can ride it just fine, but the problem is, for my competition bike I'm literally finding tons of great deals on these bikes (105 or better and full CF), but a lot of them are triple crank.

I really am considering buying a triple and then jsut removing the granny gear, but how much trouble would this then raise for me?
I'm not sure how difficult it would be, sure you could make it work, you'd have to check the front cog sizes, Triple doesn't just mean extra cog, all 3 front cogs may be different to a double.

If you read the thread, Mark e is going to ride for a squad, so hence the fitness is obviously there. I'm not saying triple is bad, it's just 99% of people dont race with it.

Sorry I will read the whole thread next time. :o

Yes you can remove the inner chainring if you want to (and put it back on later if you change your mind. The outer 2 chainrings on a triple are generally the same as a double--typically 53-39 (-30 for the third, inner ring). The only other meaningful difference is that a triple typically has a 118.5 bottom bracket, vs a 109.5 for a double. This gets into the whole Q-factor thing which you can research elsewhere if you feel compelled to. I've gone from a double to a triple and have not had any issues in this regard. (I'm one of those older guys referred to above, and my routes typically involve major hills.)

Bike fit is of major importance...not just frame size, but saddle height and fore/aft adjustment, stem length and bar height/width. Failure to get fitted properly can result in major ongoing knee pain.

Yes you can remove the inner chainring if you want to (and put it back on later if you change your mind. The outer 2 chainrings on a triple are generally the same as a double--typically 53-39 (-30 for the third, inner ring). The only other meaningful difference is that a triple typically has a 118.5 bottom bracket, vs a 109.5 for a double. This gets into the whole Q-factor thing which you can research elsewhere if you feel compelled to. I've gone from a double to a triple and have not had any issues in this regard. (I'm one of those older guys referred to above, and my routes typically involve major hills.)

Bike fit is of major importance...not just frame size, but saddle height and fore/aft adjustment, stem length and bar height/width. Failure to get fitted properly can result in major ongoing knee pain.
FORGOT TO MENTION: You will have to adjust the front derailleur stop (and maybe cable tension also) after you remove the inner chainring so that your chain won't jump off to the inside where your 3rd ring used to be.....