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shimano cassettes
Is there a Shimano 10 Speed (105 or Ultegra group) compatible cassette that has 28 or 29T at the large sprocket? (this is to go with a FSA compact crankset)
Like the campi 13-29 or the SRAM 11-28? I've been told it's a bad idea to mix these with Shimano. I found a Shimano 12-27 but that was it.
Can you customize the cassette and still get smooth shifting?
Thanks in advance!
Is there a Shimano 10 Speed (105 or Ultegra group) compatible cassette that has 28 or 29T at the large sprocket? (this is to go with a FSA compact crankset)
Like the campi 13-29 or the SRAM 11-28? I've been told it's a bad idea to mix these with Shimano. I found a Shimano 12-27 but that was it.
Can you customize the cassette and still get smooth shifting?
Thanks in advance!
No..shimano 10s 12-25, then to 12-27..no 28 or 29.
Modern cogs have all sorts of windows and ramps and such and are made to be a set., so the 13 is 'matched' to the 14, etc. When you mix and match, these 'features' don't line up and it 'may' not shift worth a damn.
Is there a Shimano 10 Speed (105 or Ultegra group) compatible cassette that has 28 or 29T at the large sprocket? (this is to go with a FSA compact crankset)
Like the campi 13-29 or the SRAM 11-28? I've been told it's a bad idea to mix these with Shimano. I found a Shimano 12-27 but that was it.
Can you customize the cassette and still get smooth shifting?
Thanks in advance!yes you can get a 11or12-28 from IRD (http://www.interlocracing.com/cassettes_steel.html)
you can even get 11-34 and 12-32or34 if you strap on a MTB derailleur
Shimano road RDs are said to work with a maximum size rear sprocket of 27. Most people report being able to use a 28 without trouble, but I am not sure whether you'll get away with 29. The SRAM 11-28 should work but I would be thinking of 12-28 or 13-28, if they exist, or else you're going to have some biggish jumps between gears.
No..shimano 10s 12-25, then to 12-27..no 28 or 29.
Modern cogs have all sorts of windows and ramps and such and are made to be a set., so the 13 is 'matched' to the 14, etc. When you mix and match, these 'features' don't line up and it 'may' not shift worth a damn.
ok. How about replacing the 34T small chainring (in a FSA crankset or any other compatible crank) with a 5 bolt, 32 or 33 t. Is that possible? I'm trying to see if I can still get a bail-out gear in a compact set-up.
yes you can get a 11or12-28 from IRD (http://www.interlocracing.com/cassettes_steel.html)
you can even get 11-34 and 12-32or34 if you strap on a MTB derailleur
OOOps sorry. I did not see your response.
"10-speed Elite Road Cassette: Shimano 10 compatible version."
This is great. I guess when they say compatible it really means COMPATIBLE and not "it just works...sort of"
ok. How about replacing the 34T small chainring (in a FSA crankset or any other compatible crank) with a 5 bolt, 32 or 33 t. Is that possible? I'm trying to see if I can still get a bail-out gear in a compact set-up.
Smallest CR for a 110mm bolt diameter is 34t.
yes you can get a 11or12-28 from IRD (http://www.interlocracing.com/cassettes_steel.html)
you can even get 11-34 and 12-32or34 if you strap on a MTB derailleur
I did more research and found this about IRD cassettes: http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-90695.html
NOT A GOOD IDEA...
Sounded too good to be true
I did more research and found this about IRD cassettes: http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-90695.html
NOT A GOOD IDEA...
Sounded too good to be truedon't know... never tried it, but i'm wondering if these guys are experiencing the effects of using a worn chain with a new cassettes... that will cause the ghost shifting they talk about. but one did mention that he replaced the IRD with a shimano cassette and it worked fine so...
Is there a Shimano 10 Speed (105 or Ultegra group) compatible cassette that has 28 or 29T at the large sprocket? (this is to go with a FSA compact crankset)
Like the campi 13-29 or the SRAM 11-28? I've been told it's a bad idea to mix these with Shimano. I found a Shimano 12-27 but that was it.
Can you customize the cassette and still get smooth shifting?
Thanks in advance!You can buy a 30 cog and swap it into your 12-27, removing one of the other single cogs like the 13 (and using the 13's spacer on the 30. This works fine. It will be out-of-spec for your rear der as far as Shimano is concerned, but it works just perfectly for me. (I tried a 32 also, but no joy.)
You can buy a 30 from harris cyclery/sheldon brown (who apparently died today).
You can buy a 30 cog and swap it into your 12-27, removing one of the other single cogs like the 13 (and using the 13's spacer on the 30. This works fine. It will be out-of-spec for your rear der as far as Shimano is concerned, but it works just perfectly for me. (I tried a 32 also, but no joy.)
You can buy a 30 from harris cyclery/sheldon brown (who apparently died today).
you'll have to explain a little more..
So you end up with 13-14-15-16-17-19-21-24-27-30? or is it 12-14-15-16-17-19-21-24-27-30
BWT this does not create a problem with the short cage DER capacity (rated at 29T but I'll end up with 32T); right? and IF I understand this correctly the shifting may not be as smooth but only at the bail-out gear; right?
Thanks! this is VERY helpful
You end up with 12-14....27-30
Not sure what you mean when you say you'll end up with 32T. Your largest cog is the added 30T.
Shifting is fine, even though out of spec.
You have to keep the 12---it's the one that works with the cassette lockring.
If you want to keep the 12 and 13, you can drop out any other single cog from the cluster instead...say the 14 or 15 (if separate individual cogs and not on a spider. NO issue at all shifting from 27 to 30.
Again, it was my experience that 32T cog was unworkable, though you could swap in a mountain rear der and then do whatever you want...even up to a rear 34T.
Oh---important--this whole swap thing only works with 8- or 9-speed rear cluster. The 10-speed rear cassette overhangs the freewheel and therefore you can't swap in a flat 30T rear cog on 10-speed.
You end up with 12-14....27-30
Not sure what you mean when you say you'll end up with 32T. Your largest cog is the added 30T.
I was just concerned about total chain slack...
Oh---important--this whole swap thing only works with 8- or 9-speed rear cluster. The 10-speed rear cassette overhangs the freewheel and therefore you can't swap in a flat 30T rear cog on 10-speed.
Wow, this one is important. 9 speed vs 10 speed; I'll just have to evaluate the pros/cons of a standard shimano 12-27 (10 speed) vs SRAM 12-28 (10 speed) vs shimano 12-30 (9 speed).
Hmm....It looks like 9 speed is compatible with STI 6600 Ultegra shifters...
You could just get out and train harder on the hills, and--if applicable--lose some weight in the process. I can get up hills now in 30/25 that I had trouble climbing in 30/30 last spring. In fact, on smaller hills, I've found myself climbing in 39/27 or 39/30 by accident, never having needed the granny up front. I'm 20lbs lighter than I was a year ago. 20 more to go.
(I'm an old guy, and just bought my 1st license to race!)
You could just get out and train harder on the hills, and--if applicable--lose some weight in the process. I can get up hills now in 30/25 that I had trouble climbing in 30/30 last spring. In fact, on smaller hills, I've found myself climbing in 39/27 or 39/30 by accident, never having needed the granny up front. I'm 20lbs lighter than I was a year ago. 20 more to go.
(I'm an old guy, and just bought my 1st license to race!)
My bail-out gear IS the 30/25 (I ride a triple with 12-25 cassette; 55 years old; 165 lbs; 5-10). Most hills I climb on 39/25 or 39/23 so I think a 34/27 may work, but the 34/28 looks better. I only use the 30/25 on very steep hills (there are a few at 10% grade). The reason I'm looking at compact is that I hardly use about 30% of my available gears BUT I may just get a another bike and keep this one with the triple set-up; just to have some peace of mind.
There is Nothing better than justifying getting a new bike; right?
:D
Smallest CR for a 110mm bolt diameter is 34t.I think that TA (?) used to have a 33t 110BCD chainring ... maybe, it's still available.
You can buy a 30 cog and swap it into your 12-27, removing one of the other single cogs like the 13 (and using the 13's spacer on the 30. This works fine. It will be out-of-spec for your rear der as far as Shimano is concerned, but it works just perfectly for me. (I tried a 32 also, but no joy.)
You can buy a 30 from harris cyclery/sheldon brown (who apparently died today).If you (or, anyone else) are still looking for "joy" in going beyond Shimano's spec, then you can usually use a 32t largest cog with a 9-or-10-speed Shimano rear derailleur by replacing the 11t upper pulley wheel with a 10t pulley wheel ...
Way back when, the concept of a 27t largest cog was just such an annoyance when I first encountered it that I initially opted for some XTR rear derailleurs rather than confront it ...
But, eventually, I "investigated" the design to get-inside-the-mind of the engineer from Osaka to see why he crippled the capacity of their Ultegra 6503 rear derailleur ... the parallelogram appears to be slightly shorter on the 9-speed Ultegra rear derailleur than on the 8-speed Shimano 600 derailleur AND (more significantly) I ascertained that the circumference of the 11t pulley wheel was exacerbating the interference ...
Which begged the question: "would swapping a 10t pulley wheel allow a larger largest cog?"
The answer was, "yes" ... and, I found that using a 10t upper pulley wheel on a 9-or-10-speed Shimano ROAD rear allowed a 32t largest cog, and with some frames, a 34t MAY be possible ...
I can't speak to how good-or-bad an IRD 10-speed cassette is, but changing the upper pulley wheel will allow you to use a much larger cog than Shimano currently specs for their ROAD rear derailleurs.
Way back when, the concept of a 27t largest cog was just such an annoyance when I first encountered it that I initially opted for some XTR rear derailleurs rather than confront it ...
But, eventually, I "investigated" the design to get-inside-the-mind of the engineer from Osaka to see why he crippled the capacity of their Ultegra 6503 rear derailleur ... the parallelogram appears to be slightly shorter on the 9-speed Ultegra rear derailleur than on the 8-speed Shimano 600 derailleur AND (more significantly) I ascertained that the circumference of the 11t pulley wheel was exacerbating the interference ...
Which begged the question: "would swapping a 10t pulley wheel allow a larger largest cog?"
The answer was, "yes" ... and, I found that using a 10t upper pulley wheel on a 9-or-10-speed Shimano ROAD rear allowed a 32t largest cog, and with some frames, a 34t MAY be possible ...
I can't speak to how good-or-bad an IRD 10-speed cassette is, but changing the upper pulley wheel will allow you to use a much larger cog than Shimano currently specs for their ROAD rear derailleurs.
Well, to put closure to this, I spent quite a bit of time at my LBS talking to the mechanic. His advise: keep it simple; install a SRAM 10 speed cassette 11/28 which he knows works with Shimano and will give me the bail-out gear; put a shimano compact crank (R600) (which he thought looks better than other cranks). Even though the 28T cassette exceeds the shimano spec he said it's OK.
BTW, one previous poster had suggested this also.
I have to say the Shimano crank really looks a lot better than the FSA I currently have. I'm having it done this weekend...
I guess the new bike will have to wait a little while...
:(
BTW, one previous poster had suggested this also. If you are referring to replacing the 11t upper pulley wheel, I think that would have probably been me since I suggested using a 10t pulley wheel in a thread at least a few months ago ...
And, have actually been making that suggestion for years to "fix" the Shimano ROAD rear derailleurs.
I've used a 28T with a DA7800 RD without any trouble....just needed to adjust it a bit & had no issues....then reverse the adjust when you change back to a 'normal' Shimano cog
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