Rims: Starlite vs. DC-19?

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Hey guys, road biking newb here. Well, I started riding since last spring and put on about 500 miles during the warm months. I'm riding on a 2007 DBR Podium 1.

Anyhow, to my question. The wheels that came with this bike are the Alex DC-19 700c's. I'm not really sure what the specs are on these wheels but from what info. I did find on the net the front and rear weigh in @ 961grams and 1142grams respectively. I'm sure not the lightest but hey, I bought the bike under 500 bucks at Agee's Bicycle in Richmond (LBS) and from my research it had the typical entry level hardware (Tiagra RD, SORA shifters, Carbon fork, 8 cog cassette with a 3 ring crank, etc.) and weighed in @ 22.5 lbs. So not bad for the money.

I'm looking to upgrade the rims to something lighter without spending a lot of money. I figured if I'm going to attemp to put this bike on a diet I should start with the wheels since lightening up rotational mass has many benefits.

I found a set of wheels called the Vuelta Starlite and these front and rear weigh 820grams and 1030 grams respectively.

About a half pound savings (static weight) with most of it on the rear so this should improve pedaling effeciency, yes? (less effort). I know it's probably not on any competitor cyclist's A-list of products but if all the specs are correct it will be an improvement, no? Basically I can grab these for about 120 bucks with a shimano hub cassette for the rear.

Good buy? What do ya'll think?

Had a set of Starlites for about 150 miles. No complaints. I immediately noticed a substantial difference in aerodynamics. Much faster in head and cross wind than my alex rims. My set came with a set of michelin dynamic tires and I am very pleased with the overall package. Paid $134 on Ebay. Shimano hubs. Very sturdy set of wheels. Look expensive.

Had a set of Starlites for about 150 miles. No complaints. I immediately noticed a substantial difference in aerodynamics. Much faster in head and cross wind than my alex rims. My set came with a set of michelin dynamic tires and I am very pleased with the overall package. Paid $134 on Ebay. Shimano hubs. Very sturdy set of wheels. Look expensive.
Thanks for the feedback. Interesting how I hear people talk about the aerodynamics that a wheel contributes to a road bike. How is this? I mean I can see a cross wind factor (air passing through the spokes) but a head wind? The physical cross sectional profile of a wheel heading directly into a wind is pretty small compared to the rider so i guess i'm a little lost when I think to myself what difference will there be in the cross section of frontal area from the DC-19 to the Starlites (or any other tire of the same size!).

Hey guys, road biking newb here. Well, I started riding since last spring and put on about 500 miles during the warm months. I'm riding on a 2007 DBR Podium 1.

Anyhow, to my question. The wheels that came with this bike are the Alex DC-19 700c's. I'm not really sure what the specs are on these wheels but from what info. I did find on the net the front and rear weigh in @ 961grams and 1142grams respectively. I'm sure not the lightest but hey, I bought the bike under 500 bucks at Agee's Bicycle in Richmond (LBS) and from my research it had the typical entry level hardware (Tiagra RD, SORA shifters, Carbon fork, 8 cog cassette with a 3 ring crank, etc.) and weighed in @ 22.5 lbs. So not bad for the money.

I'm looking to upgrade the rims to something lighter without spending a lot of money. I figured if I'm going to attemp to put this bike on a diet I should start with the wheels since lightening up rotational mass has many benefits.

I found a set of wheels called the Vuelta Starlite and these front and rear weigh 820grams and 1030 grams respectively.

About a half pound savings (static weight) with most of it on the rear so this should improve pedaling effeciency, yes? (less effort). I know it's probably not on any competitor cyclist's A-list of products but if all the specs are correct it will be an improvement, no? Basically I can grab these for about 120 bucks with a shimano hub cassette for the rear.

Good buy? What do ya'll think?

First of all, rotational 'advantages' are there but are almost unmeasurable, since they are so small. Secondly, even at $120, saving 1/2 pound on a bike and rider 'package' of perhaps 200 pounds is .25 percent of the total if my arithmatic is right. So, it really means little as well. Just trying to show you that significant performance gains come from things like better bike fit, rider fitness, reducing fat on the rider and riding smart. The rider tho, not the bike. Most bikes are great bikes but are there to 'get you there'. Focus on the rider, use that $120 to get a coach or see a massage therapist or help to pay for a cycling vacation......

First of all, rotational 'advantages' are there but are almost unmeasurable, since they are so small. Secondly, even at $120, saving 1/2 pound on a bike and rider 'package' of perhaps 200 pounds is .25 percent of the total if my arithmatic is right. So, it really means little as well. Just trying to show you that significant performance gains come from things like better bike fit, rider fitness, reducing fat on the rider and riding smart. The rider tho, not the bike. Most bikes are great bikes but are there to 'get you there'. Focus on the rider, use that $120 to get a coach or see a massage therapist or help to pay for a cycling vacation......
Well, it's all really good advice, thanks. Although targeting to improve my physical ability is def. a main focus, I know coming from automotive tuning that any reduction in rotational mass requires less power to rotate or if power is constantant will accelerate that rotational mass much quicker and with less effort. Although a 1/2 pound maybe a .25% reduction in total weight (bike+rider) it's a 14.6% reduction in rotational weight for the front and 9.92% for the rear. It's that lighter rear wheel that I think may improve my climbing ability and acceleration.

As a rider I weigh 75kg and stand @ 6'2". My body fat is around 7-8%. I guess I'll have to decide if a 14.6% and 9.92% improvement is worth $120. Thanks guys.

I'll give this a try. 32 spokes on old alex rims. 32 round spokes that create drag. New rims are 20 spokes. 20 earo spokes with significantly less drag. Less drag equates to faster and easier rotation which equates to less resistance and higher speed at given power output.

I noticed the difference at speeds over 16 mph. I found it easier to obtain higher speed with less effort.

Or maybe its all in my head.

Either way, I am satisfied with the product and the end result was increased speed for whatever reason.

I also have DC-19's on my Raleigh Supercourse. I was considering a new wheelset but decided to put more into the engine. I started a good leg workout, am reading some lit. on climbing, and am working on taking about 10 pounds off. My first rides of the season have shown good results.
I've read so many threads on this topic that I decided to do something that would answer my questions for good. A cycling buddy of mine has a set of Bontrager Race X Lites that he is going to let me try out. I'm going to set up a couple of different courses, climbs, flat, downhill, and test the two. Of course I'm going to test on different days, not back to back, and do several tests of the same course. I'll let you know how it works out.
By the way, If you want the Vuelta wheelset then just get it. If it makes you faster just because you think it, then it's worth it. Everyone has a different opinion.

Well, it's all really good advice, thanks. Although targeting to improve my physical ability is def. a main focus, I know coming from automotive tuning that any reduction in rotational mass requires less power to rotate or if power is constantant will accelerate that rotational mass much quicker and with less effort. Although a 1/2 pound maybe a .25% reduction in total weight (bike+rider) it's a 14.6% reduction in rotational weight for the front and 9.92% for the rear. It's that lighter rear wheel that I think may improve my climbing ability and acceleration.

As a rider I weigh 75kg and stand @ 6'2". My body fat is around 7-8%. I guess I'll have to decide if a 14.6% and 9.92% improvement is worth $120. Thanks guys.

All good numbers and I'm not here to argue but the weight percentages are not linear, .25% and 14.6% do not effect the same things. If you reduce the weight of a rear wheel by 14.6%, you won't be 14.6% faster up that hill. A study I read tested rim weights, measuring the energy required to spin a rm up to a certain speed, using a 300 gr rom and a 600 gram rim and the difference was something on the order of .1 of 1% difference. So it's there but small.

A lighter rear or front wheel 'may' improve your performance but until you start taking pounds off rather than grams, it 'may' mean little'. But YMMV, just don't expect huge differences.

All good numbers and I'm not here to argue but the weight percentages are not linear, .25% and 14.6% do not effect the same things. If you reduce the weight of a rear wheel by 14.6%, you won't be 14.6% faster up that hill. A study I read tested rim weights, measuring the energy required to spin a rm up to a certain speed, using a 300 gr rom and a 600 gram rim and the difference was something on the order of .1 of 1% difference. So it's there but small.

A lighter rear or front wheel 'may' improve your performance but until you start taking pounds off rather than grams, it 'may' mean little'. But YMMV, just don't expect huge differences.
Yeah I hear ya. I agree and thats why I'm a bit skeptical of the whole matter. But hey, if I do get these at least it won't be a step back and have some (although small) function as well as form (better looking than DC-19 IMO) and so far from what some of you have said is a reliable product.

It at least has to be better buy than that Carbon Fiber seat post I saw at my LBS for 40 bucks. eh, I just can't leave my bike alone. :p

It at least has to be better buy than that Carbon Fiber seat post I saw at my LBS for 40 bucks. eh, I just can't leave my bike alone. :p
If it wasn't for some of us tinkering around dressing up our bikes how long would our favorite LBS survive? My favorite LBS is alway happy to see me. I was labeled as one of his favorite customers and typically get an automatic 15% off on anything I select. It's not that I believe in these part improving performance, but I know at the moment he needs help keeping the doors open and my three bikes are kept in fine operating condition. So keep buying those bling parts if you desire and support your LBS. That's my opinion. :)

I certainly can't blame my bikes. I can only blame myself if performance is off. :)

Yeah I hear ya. I agree and thats why I'm a bit skeptical of the whole matter. But hey, if I do get these at least it won't be a step back and have some (although small) function as well as form (better looking than DC-19 IMO) and so far from what some of you have said is a reliable product.

It at least has to be better buy than that Carbon Fiber seat post I saw at my LBS for 40 bucks. eh, I just can't leave my bike alone. :p
If it were me, I would save my money and wait to buy something in the 1500-1600 gram/wheelset category. The change you're talking about is insignificant and you're really just buying another set of mediocre wheels. Regardless of your calculations, I would be willing to bet that you won't realize any improvement beyond the "new gear placebo effect" (which happens, but is not due to the equipment itself).

If you really want to spend $120 (hey, I'm not criticizing - I do it all the time!), look at things that will actually get you into a "really good" or "excellent" category for a piece of gear, not another mediocre item. Examples: an excellent saddle (if you're current one is really heavy and/or uncomfortable), new handlebars (if your current ones aren't the right shape or size), NEW SHOES (!!! if your current ones aren't really comfortable and decently light), new pedals, new tires, NEW SHORTS, etc. All of those things will likely improve your riding in quality - and compared to substituting one mediocre wheelest for another, will more than likely improve your speed and efficiency as much or more (probably more). With all of the above, $120 will get you a pretty nice piece of gear compared to $120 wheels.

In fact, if you don't have pretty decent shoes and clipless pedals, or shorts, that should absolutely be your first "upgrade"

Better yet - you've only ridden 500 miles? That's nothing. You should ride another season and if you enjoy the sport, save up and get into the $1,000-$1,500 category and you'll get meaningful upgrades in every single category I mentioned above.