2007 Specialized Ruby and 700 x 25 tire issue

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Does anyone know about the issue with the 2007 Specialized Ruby carbon bikes which apparently were outfitted with tires that were too large for the frame? I discovered this issue when I broke a spoke on my rear wheel, which caused my wheel to immediately jam into the frame to the extent that I could not pedal a single rotation or move the wheel at all, so I had to carry my bike to the shop. At the dealer's it was discovered that the paint was completely rubbed off from the frame where the wheel was jammed into the frame. Since then, I cannot get a straight answer from Specialized on what the problem is/was with the 2007 Ruby Pro, which came outfitted with the Roubaix 700 x 23/25 tires. The Specialized representative told my dealer that the tires that came on the 2007 Ruby Pro "were too big for the bike." He claimed the tire rubbed the paint off the frame over time because it didn't fit. I called Specialized headquaraters myself a few weeks later and was told that maybe the damage to my frame was caused by the broken spoke episode, not that a too-big tire wore through the paint over time. The Specialized rep working with my dealer gave me a new set of Roval Fusee wheels outfitted with Mondo Pro 700 x 23 tires. The problem is these tires are very uncomfortable and ruin the ride. I purchased the Ruby Pro for comfort, and these tires are not comfortable. So, this is not a satisfactory solution. I cannot decide what my options are, however, because Specialized, to my knowledge, has not issued a nationwide statement or guidance regarding the problem with 2007 Ruby Pro and the wheels/tires that came with the bike. I know all the 2008 Rubys now come with 700 x 23 tires; but Specialized has neither recalled nor issued a safety statement regarding the 2007 Ruby set-up, so does that mean it is safe to go back to the 700 x 25 tires that came with the bike? Apparently all who purchased Rubys in 2007 are still riding on the 700 x 25s unless they, like me, had a problem with the wheel. Does riding on such tires increase the chance of a broken spoke or cause other safety concerns? Is it dangerous to ride on such size tires because, as I experienced, a broken spoke causes the wheel to jam into the frame so dramatically that if you were traveling at a high rate of speed, you would immediately crash? If I must stick with a 700 x 23 tire, please recommend something that is comfortable. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Many thanks.

I'm not sure that you'll find any 23mm tyre particularly more comfortable than any other 23mm tyre. If you bought the bike for 25mm comfort, and the frame really won't fit 25mm tyres (most road frames would fit them), then you need to keep asking Specialized for a frame swap on the basis of false advertising.

I'm not sure that you'll any any 23mm tyre particularly more comfortable than any other 23mm tyre. If you bought the bike for 25mm comfort, and the frame really won't fit 25mm tyres (most road frames would fit them), then you need to keep asking Specialized for a frame swap on the basis of false advertising.thanks. Unfortunately, the Ruby is the only all-carbon women specific bike Specialized makes, so I'm stuck.

Does anyone know about the issue with the 2007 Specialized Ruby carbon bikes which apparently were outfitted with tires that were too large for the frame? I discovered this issue when I broke a spoke on my rear wheel, which caused my wheel to immediately jam into the frame to the extent that I could not pedal a single rotation or move the wheel at all, so I had to carry my bike to the shop. At the dealer's it was discovered that the paint was completely rubbed off from the frame where the wheel was jammed into the frame. Since then, I cannot get a straight answer from Specialized on what the problem is/was with the 2007 Ruby Pro, which came outfitted with the Roubaix 700 x 23/25 tires. The Specialized representative told my dealer that the tires that came on the 2007 Ruby Pro "were too big for the bike." He claimed the tire rubbed the paint off the frame over time because it didn't fit. I called Specialized headquaraters myself a few weeks later and was told that maybe the damage to my frame was caused by the broken spoke episode, not that a too-big tire wore through the paint over time. The Specialized rep working with my dealer gave me a new set of Roval Fusee wheels outfitted with Mondo Pro 700 x 23 tires. The problem is these tires are very uncomfortable and ruin the ride. I purchased the Ruby Pro for comfort, and these tires are not comfortable. So, this is not a satisfactory solution. I cannot decide what my options are, however, because Specialized, to my knowledge, has not issued a nationwide statement or guidance regarding the problem with 2007 Ruby Pro and the wheels/tires that came with the bike. I know all the 2008 Rubys now come with 700 x 23 tires; but Specialized has neither recalled nor issued a safety statement regarding the 2007 Ruby set-up, so does that mean it is safe to go back to the 700 x 25 tires that came with the bike? Apparently all who purchased Rubys in 2007 are still riding on the 700 x 25s unless they, like me, had a problem with the wheel. Does riding on such tires increase the chance of a broken spoke or cause other safety concerns? Is it dangerous to ride on such size tires because, as I experienced, a broken spoke causes the wheel to jam into the frame so dramatically that if you were traveling at a high rate of speed, you would immediately crash? If I must stick with a 700 x 23 tire, please recommend something that is comfortable. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Many thanks.FWIW. The fact that: a) you were able to roll BEFORE the spoke broke

b) the paint was only worn away where the tire rubbed the frame

suggests (to me) that it was indeed the broken spoke episode which created the problem ...


Of course, the fact that you managed to break a spoke is troubling ... and, the reason that many (incuding myself) are not keen on low spoke wheels.

If your wheel had a 700x23 tire when the spoke broke, it still would PROBABLY have jammed against the chainstay ... so, I think the shop is trying to humor you by installing a smaller tire.

You probably only need to inflate your tires to between 95PSI & 100PSI ... regardless of what the sidewall indicates. If you are running MORE air pressure, then try running at a lower air pressure.

I have a friend who thinks that because the sidewall on his tires says 145PSI that he should put that much air in his tires!

On the other hand, I never use(d) more than 105PSI ... as much because that is all my pumps could muster as anything.

BTW. What size frame did you get AND how tall/heavy are you? Are you really so small that you need a woman's bike to get a good fit?

How many miles/kilometers had you ridden (cumulatively) before the spoke broke? In part, I think the dealer & the rep are being evasive because neither wants to take responsibility for the prep, or lack of, on a fairly expensive bike.

Are those Roval Fusee wheels the ones with the RED, plastic "spider" emanating from the hubs which overlays the spokes?!?

Are the Roval Fusee wheels you were given the same as were originally spec'd for the bike?

My guess is that 25mm tires fit your bike just fine. Really doubt Specialized would sell a bike fitted with tires that are too wide for the frame and fork. Using a tire which is 0.080 inches wider or narrower isn't going to make your bike unsafe in any way. Lot's of people change from 23s to 25s or 28s to accomodate more weight, or to run lower pressures for greater riding comfort over rough roads. Unless you're racing, there is no advantage to running 23mm tires that I can think of.

Before your spoke broke, you didn't have any signs of tires hitting the frame, right? With a broken spoke, it doesn't matter what width tires you have.....a 23mm width will hit the chainstays just like a 25 if the wheel is thrown out of true by a broken spoke. After all, you're only talking about 1 mm (nominal) difference on each side.

Ride comfort is a function of tire width, pressures and construction of the tire. The pressure makes the biggest difference in comfort, and correct pressure depends on your weight. Wider tires allow you to run lower pressure for more comfort and better roadholding grip on rough roads. You didn't mention how much pressure you use, but if you're say 140-150 lbs, 85 psi for 25s and 95 psi for 23s would be about right. You'll have to experiment a bit to find the pressures that you like best for your weight, road conditions and riding style.

Boy, don't you think you would have noticed if the 25 were rubbing before the spoke incident? I mean, if it were rubbing enough to wear off the paint, it would have been obvious.

For what it's worth, I'm very skeptical that a frame won't handle a 25 mm tire.

Boy, don't you think you would have noticed if the 25 were rubbing before the spoke incident? I mean, if it were rubbing enough to wear off the paint, it would have been obvious.

For what it's worth, I'm very skeptical that a frame won't handle a 25 mm tire.
I agree - I hope I implied this with my first post. I'd put the 25mm tyre on your new wheel and see how it goes.

I agree - I hope I implied this with my first post. I'd put the 25mm tyre on your new wheel and see how it goes.When I was writing my above post, I was also thinking: Isn't tire width compatability simply a physical matter - i.e. either it fits or doesn't and that is no mystery - it is easy to see and is perfectly obvious even to an untrained person the first time the wheel spins.

For example, I have a Cannondale CAAD 7 frame, which is very similar to more recent 8 and 9 versions in terms of geometry, clearance etc. I've always been told I could use as large tire as could actually fit - if it cleared the frame, it was good. I actually used a 28mm which spun freely and I used it for several months.

The ONLY issues were (1) it was a little tough, but not impossible, to fit through the brakes when I removed the front tire and (2) the rear tire actually much tighter frame clearance than the front. The front wasn't an issue at all. The tightest clearence was not laterally at the forks, but between the tread and the seat tube at the forward part of the rear tire. It cleared, but with very little clearance. It worked, but I was concerned if/when the tire picked up tiny road debris (i.e. when wet) that it would be a problem. I did about 800 miles without any problem, but changed to a 25 just "because".

All of this is to say, isn't it true that if the tire clears all frame members and spins freely, it is good to go? If it doesn't, it isn't - and that would be obvious the first time the wheel spun?

Many thanks to all of your for your responses. I finally spoke with the right person at Specialized headquarters today, and he confirmed everything you are saying -- the broken spoke (likely on a defective Roval Fusee E5 wheel [not the Fusee Star]) caused all of my problems, and it is not that the rear 700 x 25 tire that came on the bike was "too big" and wore through the frame paint over time. That always sounded more likely to me, but I thought a company rep. surely wouldn't confess to a large-scale problem with all 2007 Rubys unless it was true. Well, it now appears that this local Specialized rep. who dealt with my dealer was smoking crack or something, and the rather new mechanic staff at my dealer didn't challenge his theory. Specialized is sending me a new set of the 700 x 25 tires that I liked so much, so I'm all set. I really appreciate the input from you guys. It's reassuring to hear the that the "company line" makes sense to the real experts with nothing at stake here. I also want to say how much I love my Ruby Pro. It is fast, responsive, and extremely comfortable (with the right tires). And, the women-specific fit is amazing. Even though I'm not tiny (I'm 5' 6"), the top tube length is perfect (I can barely reach the handlebars on a mens' road bike), and I can actually operate the brakes without maximal extension of my hands. Finally, to the dude (after all, you must be a dude!) who asked "how heavy are you?" - are you kidding me???? Not even my personal physician is entitled to that information! :)

... Finally, to the dude (after all, you must be a dude!) who asked "how heavy are you?" - are you kidding me???? Not even my personal physician is entitled to that information! :)OK then, how old are you? ;)

Seriously, the pressure in the tires really depends on the size of the tire and the weight it carries - just like a car tire. The lighter you are and the wider the tire, the less pressure is needed. Contrary to popular belief, lower pressure doesn't necessarily mean slower rolling either. It can actually be smoother and faster. The late Sheldon Brown's site has an excellent section on tires, including pressure. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html Look for the section on pressure recommendations - when you do, a good rule of thumb is that 60% of the bike+rrder weight is on the rear tire 40% on the front (not 100% on either, obviously)

Have fun.

"OK then, how old are you? ;)"

If I told you that this is my first internet post ever (which happens to be true), you'll get an idea. Thanks for the tip!