Old road bike full strip
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Hi,
Two years ago i pulled an old Northern Star road bike out of the shed, cleaned it up and got it going.
Now before summer sets in i want to strip it down, get it painted though to do this i need to disassemble the steering head and the crank set right? From what i read its a cup and cone crank but apparently there are different threading patterns depending on the bike.
So my questions are what kind of threading will this bike have and can I get away without any special c spanner tools ie chisel / mallet?
Thanks, also if in wrong section my apologies.
By threading i mean would an Australian built bike have a right or left handed crankset.
By threading i mean would an Australian built bike have a right or left handed crankset.FWIW. I reckon the NORTHERN STAR frame has an ENGLISH threaded BB ... left hand thread on the driveside ... the cups may be stamped/imprinted 1.37x24 ...
If the BB shell has English threading, you can replace it with almost any contemporary BB & crankset.
BTW. Generally, only French bikes had French threaded BBs (35x24) ... and, MERCKX is the only well known, non-Italian frame builder that I can think of whose bikes use an Italian threaded BB (36x24).
thanks for reply i was going to dismantle the crank today though has an issue with the crankarms so need to see if i can borrow a crank puller and a c spanner from someone now....... all well looks like it'll take longer than expected.
Hi,
Two years ago i pulled an old Northern Star road bike out of the shed, cleaned it up and got it going.
Northern star or Malvern Star?
There will be plenty of information out there on Malvern stars - The Canberra
bicycle museum as a start.
The 'northern' star may be someone trying to pass themselves off although there are plenty of ordinary Malvern stars out there as well
I would typically expect an English thread in your average Australian bike. I have one Italian threaded track bike which has is branded with what I think is an Adelaide Company but I doubt it was made here.
Start with the non-drive side then you can measure / inspect before deciding if you have a right or left handed thread on the drive side.
RoryW
pretty sure its northern star as it has the sticker on the bottom of the seat tube.
i was thinking the left side of the bottom bracket also though read somewhere that taking the right side (drive / chain side) later was not recommended unless changing with a new one, how true is this?
hey i dismantled it all except for the head tube bearing cups / races....
I read somewhere that you need a special tool to to remove and install these then somewhere else that says just tap them out with a screwdriver and hammer if they are steel which i am quite sure they are.
Also the frame doesn't seem to be welded but brazed i think the term is, is it ok to remove the head tube bearing cups / races without damaging the frame in any way?
Thanks guys and girls
If they are not pitted I would say don't mess with them. Get a roll of masking tape.
I am fairly certain it would be safe to gently tap them out. You may need a shop to put the new ones in. I am sure it's not so good for the frame if they go in cocked though they probably would straighten out. They have a tool.
The toughest part is removing the fixed race on the fork. It is normally pressed on and is a major pain and time consuming project to remove. And you have to have the correct size pipe to reinstall it.
i thought i would give a try after work and they came out without a huge fuss so i took them out. They look ok to me but ill take em into a bike shop as after painting as i'm going to need a few items anyway so they can check it for me.
The area in the head tube is prepared for them so will put some tape in there after the preparation work is completed and also in the bottom bracket then it should be ready for painting.
thanks
i took the forks and fixed raceof last weekend and i remember them just coming off by hand not stuck in at all ??? also the bottom bracket lock nut was loose but the crank arms were not easy but all down now have to get the painting done.
thanks
Mask the fork where the race goes or it may be troublesome to put it back on.
excellent suggestion, have also seen images on the net with rags through the bottom bracket and head tube.
though i am hearing more and more people just saying to get it sand blasted and powder coated is this really that good? and what about the insides of the bottom bracket etc.....................
thanks again ( if i had a dollar for every time....)
Your powder coater can mask of the threaded and reamed areas just as a painter can. Some folks say powder coating yields a more durable finish than standard paints. I have some powder coated farm machinery and have yet to see an improvement in scratch resistance or weathering over ordinary paint (provided it was a decent paint job to begin with).
I agree that glass bead blasting or light sand blasting is the best method for stripping old paint and decals from your frameset.
Powder coating is a polyeurethane coating. The polyeurethane comes in a powdered form. It is electrostatically deposited on the frame so that it is evenly distributed. Once it is on the frame, the frame is baked to melt the polyeurethane into a solid hard shell. It is more durable than paint, but it is not as versitile as paint, it is difficult to do multi-colored coatings. Most paints usually have good adhearance to polyeurethane though, so powder coating would make a good base coat for any painting that needed to be done.
in the end i got it sand blasted and powder coated, took out the head set completely and the powder coater covered the inside of the bottom bracket, head tube and forks.
still preparing and inpecting other parts as only working on this when i have the chance, below are two bad pics i took on my phone with the headset back on.
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/639/img00005gp4.th.jpg (http://img263.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00005gp4.jpg)http://img263.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/3422/img00007se4.th.jpg (http://img72.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00007se4.jpg)http://img72.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)
For anyone interested here some nearly finish pics need to get the bars taped though.....
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/787/1000293ix4.th.jpghttp://img90.imageshack.us/img90/1495/1000294wz5.th.jpg (http://img101.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000293ix4.jpg)http://img90.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)
http://img395.imageshack.us/img395/450/1000295he4.th.jpg (http://img395.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000295he4.jpg)http://img395.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)
http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/2558/1000296ph9.th.jpg (http://img370.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000296ph9.jpg)http://img370.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)
http://img395.imageshack.us/img395/4299/1000297uq3.th.jpg (http://img395.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000297uq3.jpg)http://img395.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)
http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/1227/1000298db0.th.jpg (http://img370.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000298db0.jpg)http://img370.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)
http://img101.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)
That is one fine bike! I see you like the saddle forward like I do. Make sure the brake levers are where you want them before taping the bars. I use the foam sleeves for grips so I can try different lever positions and bar angles, then when happy I change the foam for tape.
thanks akadat
yea the seat is not flat which most guides say not to do but feels more comfortable this way, also the brake levers do look a little low but wont be able to tryout for weeks so ill see how i go plus I adjusted the bars a little higher.
The frame is a tad too large thats why my seat is so forward hopefully i can find a nicer frame in the future.
but any other feedback is appreciated
That is one fine bike! I see you like the saddle forward like I do. Make sure the brake levers are where you want them before taping the bars. I use the foam sleeves for grips so I can try different lever positions and bar angles, then when happy I change the foam for tape. Good idea with the foam sleaves. I'll try that with my next build. Thanks!
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