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I'm about to get my new bike it has reynolds MV32UL tubulars these will be my first tubulars
What are the big diffrences to clinchers as far as training ... do I need to always carry a extra tire ... should I glue my own tires or should just drop it off at the shop? any othe nuances of tubulars that you could provide are appreciated
Learn to glue. It's a necessary skill. Part of that skill is being able to recognize a properly glued tire, and more importantly, to recognize when a tire isn't properly glued.
Spares. Carry a spare tubie that's been pre-glued. About the only thing Tufos are good for is work as spares, so I'd look there, maybe at an S33. You may also choose to carry a latex sealant, like Vittoria PitStop, but know that such sealants don't always work. Also they typically ruin a tube for repair.
Another important skill is being able to repair your own tubies. It saves money, and allows you to get a lot of life out of tires. If you've got an LBS that glues tubies, I'd have them introduce you to the process. If not, let Google be your friend. There are lots of good online resources (Search "Jobst Brandt").
As for any differences you may or may not see, those depend on you and your perception. Some folks make all sorts of wild claims about the nirvana-like ride of tubies, while others say they can't feel a difference between clinchers and tubies. As always, proper inflation is key. You can run tubies at a lower pressure than clinchers, and tubies are nearly immune to pinch flats.
Good luck, and welcome to the dark side.
Ive only done one ride on tubulars and honestly couldnt really feel the difference. I prefer clinchers simply because I know how to change them fast. I know there are a good bunch of pro triathletes, including Chrissie Wellington that rides clinchers for that same reason. Id definately learn to change them on your own. Even at $1/min for labor at the LBS, somthing as small as changing tires can get pricey
Thanks.... how long can you ride a flat tubular
...how long can you ride a flat tubular...How much do you like your rims?
I remember a notable Coors Classic stage headed in the New Paltz NY when John Tomac rode a flat tubie down the hairpin descent through the gunks and on into town to stay with the break. That's gutsy ridin'
I mostly ride clinchers these days but raced and trained on sew ups for years. Older patched tires (get good with a speedy awl) became pre-glued spares, you learn quickly how to fold then nicely to strap under the seat and on all day rides I'd often carry two spares but in fairness never needed the second one.
Get someone to teach you how to glue and mount the tires or expect to learn the hard way and also learn how to clean any glue slop off the braking surfaces of the rim...
-Dave
I'm about to get my new bike it has reynolds MV32UL tubulars these will be my first tubulars
What are the big diffrences to clinchers as far as training ... do I need to always carry a extra tire ... should I glue my own tires or should just drop it off at the shop? any othe nuances of tubulars that you could provide are appreciated
BEFORE you hit the road with your new tubular wheels, the first thing you need to know before you try to glue your new tubulars is that you should try to DRY mount them on the rims, first. When you do, you might utter an expletive or curse the shop from whom you bought the tires because you will swear you were sold 650c tires ...
In other words, you will need to pre-stretch the tires if you want to glue them on successfully without looking as though you missed arts-and-crafts in kindergarten ...
THAT means that you (normally) need an extra set of rims ... 700c clincher rims are 'okay' for pre-stretching if you don't have a spare set of tubular rims.
It also means that if you choose to do training rides with tubular wheels that your SPARE needs to be pre-stretched, too!
A "flat" sew-up tire is repaired "at home" and not on the road.
FWIW. If you are using a NEW, pre-stretched tire as the spare, I don't think you need to pre-glue it ... that's only 'my' opinion ... over time, you may learn how much/little glue you feel comfortable with using to glue up your tires -- compared with almost everyone else, I am a minimalist with regard to how much glue I use ... but, I'm NOT racing; and, if I were, I would certainly use more glue than I do.
The second thing you need to know is that "fat" sew-ups (about 700x24-25 equivalent) like the ones I started on are now available, again -- you don't have to riding Paris-Roubaix to appreciate the ride quality the larger tire provides.
As far as whether or not YOU should glue them up, yourself ... I would say that unless you are a sponsored rider with a team mechanic, then you should LEARN to glue them up yourself ... the option of dropping your wheel(s) off with someone and then waiting for him/her to have the time to take care of YOUR wheel(s) would become rather tedious after a while unless you have several sets of wheels.
Another thing you need to know about sew-ups is that the amount of tread is minimal when compared with most-if-not-all clincher tires ... the mileage you get will be abbreviated when compared with the mileage you have been getting with your clinchers.
I don't think there is an all-weather sew-up, so while you will generally have better traction with a sew-up than with a clincher when dealing with dry road conditions, your sew-ups will probably not be as good as a clincher whose compound is formulated for wet road conditions.
Also, because a sew-up has a thinner tread, the tire will be more vulnerable to any road hazards which you might encounter on a wet road.
BTW. There is a reason that there is more than one type/grade of clincher tire ... the so-called "training" clinchers will weigh more but yield a higher mileage than the clincher tires which cost 4x as much. I reckon a "training" sew-up may-or-may-not last as long as high end clincher.
Some people ride their tubulars all the time (I used to be one of them) ... but, I think it is an expensive proposition that fewer people can to justify since many clinchers ride almost as well (some say, equally well), now -- so, for most people I think that sew-ups should probably be considered a luxury item for regular riding.
As far as I know, most pro teams actually train on standard 32x3 wheels ... clincher wheels.
I would suggest that if you are a(n aspiring) racer, but aren't sponsored, then you may want to save the sew-ups + high-zoot tubular wheels for race day unless you have unlimited disposable income to devote to tires-and-wheels.
FYI. Tubulars which have latex tubes do NOT like CO2 cartridges ... but, even if your tubulars have "regular" butyl rubber inner tubes, you should probably get in the habit of carrying a (frame) pump that can exceed 100 PSI (vs. a shorty, MTB pump which usually can only go up to about 65 PSI).
I'm about to get my new bike it has reynolds MV32UL tubulars these will be my first tubulars
What are the big diffrences to clinchers as far as training ... do I need to always carry a extra tire ... should I glue my own tires or should just drop it off at the shop? any othe nuances of tubulars that you could provide are appreciated
The ONLY advantage to a clincher is that you can repair them on the road. With a tubie, gotta change them(altho they can be repaired, just not on the road-really).
Pre-glue a spare and carry it. I also carry a small metal tire iron to get under a flat to get it off.
With a can of glue and a little solvent brush(available at any decent hardware store), gluing a tubie on is easy. LIGHT coat-Glue tubie, glue rim, glue tubie, glue rim, glue tubie....when glue is not sticky/tacky on tire, another layer on the rim, mount tire, center(why you mount with slightly wet glue on rim), air, wait 24 hours and ride. Light coats. Just paint the glue on the base tape and rim channel.
'Assuming' the shop knows how to glue tubies, ask, then show up when they glue yours the first time with some beverage the wrench likes, watch, ask questions..pay for the service, then do your own.
Pre stretching a tubie on a rim is essential, particularly for Contis, not so much for cotton tires like Vittoia, Veloflex, Clement, Challlenge.
Remember the advantages of tubulars. More comfy-no need to use anything more than about 100 psi. Will not come off the rim if flatted. Corner well, like a radial tire on a car. More flexible sidewalls, rounder.
'May' be lighter, but not an advantage that makes any difference.
Like clinchers, there are lower end, training' tubulars. More tread, machine made, not as light, butyl tube. Same 'tubular' ride but cheaper, just like clinchers.
I ride tubies all the time. I see no compelling reason to change to clinchers. All things being equal, tubies will flat less since a pinch flat is 'almost' impossible.
Ive only done one ride on tubulars and honestly couldnt really feel the difference. I prefer clinchers simply because I know how to change them fast. I know there are a good bunch of pro triathletes, including Chrissie Wellington that rides clinchers for that same reason. Id definately learn to change them on your own. Even at $1/min for labor at the LBS, somthing as small as changing tires can get pricey
I will never understand why triathletes use tubulars unless that's the wheels they choose to ride...since they have to change their own tires in a race(no neutral support).
as for pre stretching the tire, I always keep my old tubular rims to stretch the tires. You may be able to get some old used rims at the LBS for this purpose.
as for pre stretching the tire, I always keep my old tubular rims to stretch the tires. You may be able to get some old used rims at the LBS for this purpose.
AND, you can use an old clincher rim as well.
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