View Full Version : Have I found a decent full-susp. Dept. Store bike? --Help much appreciated!
I am working with a low budget, and I own a Schwinn S-25 (full suspension). For being a $200 department store bike, it has served me surprisingly well for over 5 years, with the only repair being one tire truing. Only now has the shifting seized up and the bottom bracket become loose, and its days are numbered. I am not very knowledgeable, but I am smart enough to know that those repairs would supersede the current value.
I am in the market for a good-value bike that won't break the bank (a very small bank) and I have heard mixed reviews about dept. store bikes. I know they are trash in comparison to quality stuff, but they have served my purpose, which is the occasional 30-50m semi-mountainous ride.
Men's 26" Schwinn S-25 Bike reviews, consumer reports & videos (http://www.expotv.com/Mens-26-Schwinn-S-25-Bike/2K-o1p)
The new Schwinn S-25 and related models are selling at about $230 now, and I have half a mind to get one. The old S-25 served its purpose for me for years, and it was thrashed around considerably. My question to you knowledgeable people is this: What do you think of these bikes, and what would you recommend for a person with an under-$300-budget and no self-assembling skills? (I would much prefer full-suspension, by the way.)
The S-25 used to be the S-30 @ WalMart, and the S-20 @ ToysRUs. The frame is good and dependable.
My sister has one, I picked it up 2nd-hand, built it up right; by 'right', I mean with parts that won't fold if you look at them wrong.
Manitou 80mm fork;
Hayes mechanical discs on Giant wheels;
24-spd drivetrain -- Acera shifters, Deore RD;
BG saddle, Giant stem, Specialized bar, Weirwolf tires.
the bike has been in the garage, ridden occasionally, for almost 6 years now. I put the WTBs on it last year, when the original Kendas came down with dry rot.
It fits her, and handles her strong pedaling style.
Yes, the frame was always good. My problem still lies with the budget, and as much as I want to trick out the bike with much better parts, that can get expensive for me. Does anyone recommend me using an old S-25 frame and spending my money instead on upgrades (fork, shifters, etc.)?
This doesn't appeal as much to me, since I haven't the skills to replace the parts myself, and the tantalizing thought of a brand new ride is too great. Does anyone know of good full-suspensions that are selling low? I don't want to buy cheap and sacrifice quality, but then again I do not ride too often and I just need a moderate ride. I know you guys don't want me to go to Wal-Mart and get one of those, do you?
One option is going to a hardtail at an actual bike shop.You can pick up a bike that will last you alot longer for $400 at most stores. I know it is more then you were willing to spend but it will save you money in the long run. Try seeing if you can buy last years model as well. This years model of my bike cost $900 but they also had some of last years in stock which I bought for only $600. If you find a good shop it is always worth it. Mine if you buy the bike from them will do tune ups for life. When you look at $40 a tune up that will save me alot of money.
I am working with a low budget, and I own a Schwinn S-25 (full suspension). For being a $200 department store bike, it has served me surprisingly well for over 5 years, with the only repair being one tire truing. Only now has the shifting seized up and the bottom bracket become loose, and its days are numbered. I am not very knowledgeable, but I am smart enough to know that those repairs would supersede the current value.
I am in the market for a good-value bike that won't break the bank (a very small bank) and I have heard mixed reviews about dept. store bikes ...
FWIW. I disagree that the cost of repair will exceed the bike's current value ... but, I don't know what value you are placing on your bike.
I think you should be able to buy the parts that you need for under $50 ... via mail order OR eBay ...
Understandably, bike shops don't tend to carry the lower end of the (Shimano) spectrum of components ...
A few years ago, one of my LBSes gave a friend of mine an estimate of $135+ to convert his road bike to a flat bar bike -- he had the handlebar, so the estimate was for new shifters (presumably, LX) & MTB brake levers + who-knows-what-else. I don't know if that was the cost of just the parts or if it included the labor.
I told my friend that it was more than 'I' would pay ... so, I gave him the rest of the parts he needed from my box-of-spare-parts & helped him put them on since I have the tools.
FYI. You can BUY the parts from Nashbar, Pricepoint, or Jenson's (to name three mail order retailers).
That leaves the question of installation ... and, having a friend who has the tools will be VERY beneficial!
The biggest 'deal' will be having a crank remover + a BB remover ... you can buy those two items at a bike shop for about $30+ ... or, you can buy just what you need via mail order for a little less (not that much less if you factor in shipping charges) ... or, you can get one of those all-inclusive starter kits which will have most of the bicycle tools that the average person needs (plus a lot they'll never use) for between $40-to-$60, depending on whether they are on sale ...
If the bike does not have a cartridge BB, then you probably just need to ADJUST the cups, BTW.
I don't know what shifters you have, but if the derailleurs are Shimano, then you can just use any 8-speed Shimano shifter for 7-or-8-speed drivetrains -- I guess the cost will be between $25-to-$250+ ... you can opt for the a set of shifters from the lower end of that range, of course!
Is it worth about $50 (for parts) to $100 (if you need tools) to fix your bike and give it 5+ more years of useable life (perhaps, a lifetime) vs. spending 2x-to-3x for a new bike? I think so, but ...
Yes, I have long considered a lower-cost hardtail. I will have to think more about that.
And thank you for your suggestions Alfeng, and I didn't know about those parts retailers. It comes down to my patience, though. My estimates for fixing the shifters and BB was $115-120 at my LBS, and that included labor. I haven't much considered actually learning how to do it myself. Time is a factor for me though. As a person who has never done any of this maintenance or replacing before, I wonder about my actual ability to learn how to do it, or how to do it properly in a short time. But, I think these are good ideas and they are really getting me to think.
I didn't know about those parts retailers. It comes down to my patience, though. My estimates for fixing the shifters and BB was $115-120 at my LBS, and that included labor. I haven't much considered actually learning how to do it myself. Time is a factor for me though. As a person who has never done any of this maintenance or replacing before, I wonder about my actual ability to learn how to do it, or how to do it properly in a short time. But, I think these are good ideas and they are really getting me to think.I don't want to diminish the knowledge & skill level that a bike shop 'Wrench' has, but for the task at hand I think it pretty much boils down to whether-or-not a person has the skills to lace-and-tie a pair of shoes AND if a person can open a jar of pickles and then put the lid back on properly PLUS follow some step-by-step instructions ...
Tall order?
I hope not.
Can the people in the bike shop do the task more quickly?
I hope so.
Almost everything you will need to know, now is available on-line (PARKTOOL.COM (http://www.PARKTOOL.COM) & SHELDONBROWN.COM (http://www.SHELDONBROWN.COM)) ...
While you will need some bicycle specific tools (e.g., BB tools), most of the other tools you will need can be bought from anywhere if you don't already have them. If you have a HARBOR FREIGHT store near where you live, for example, you can buy some of the common tools (e.g., ALLEN WRENCHES, pliers) from there.
Who shouldn't work on their own bikes?
I have always felt that there are some people who shouldn't work on their bikes, themselves ... amongst those people are those who have arthritis (in their hands, in particular), surgeons (whose livelihood demands that they don't injure their hands -- injuries are very rare, but can happen, if a person is a REALLY BIG KLUTZ and a tool slips ...) and "hand models" (for the same reason that surgeons shouldn't bother to do their own bicycle "wrenching").
Other than acquiring the parts (ordering & waiting for them to arrive) & tools, it will take you LESS THAN TWO HOURS to change the BB & shifters IF you are pre-occupied by watching something on TV & reading the how-to on one of the websites ... otherwise, figure on 20 minutes to an hour's real time for the first-time working on the BB & replacing the shifters.
THINGS THE TWO SITES MAY NOT TELL YOU. Before you actually change the shifters, you will also need ANYTHING that can hold some water (e.g., paper towel, sponge, spray bottle) because you'll need to remove the grips from your handlebars ... tilt the bike, drip some water near the edge of the grip, wiggle the end of the grip, add some more water, wiggle some more, repeat until the grip can be slid off. Do the same on the other side!
Using the tip of a butter knife (or, equivalent) to lift the lip of the end of the grip away from the handlebar will facilitate getting the initial film of water under the grip.
When you reapply the grips, you will again use water to lube the grips.
Also, you will want the chain to be on the smallest cog on the rear wheel & smallest chainring. IF you detach the cable & turn the crank through at least one rotation, the chain will usually move to those positions ...
If the chain doesn't move onto the smallest chainring OR smallest cog after turning the crank through another rotation, then the problem is with the derailleurs ... and, the remedy is to apply a couple of drops of HOUSEHOLD OIL to the derailleur pivots ... walk away ... wait 24 hours ... repeat ... on the third day, try to swing the recalcitrant derailleur on it's pivots by hand ... repeat until you can move the derailleur ... RINSE the the pivot until the few drops of oil you apply run clear ... wipe excess oil away with a paper towel/napkin/tissue.
Almost everything else should be covered in those two particular websites ...
After you remove the grips from the handlebars & test the derailleurs, it will simply a matter of remove & replace.
One other thing, before threading the new cable through the housing, lube the cable by running it through a dab of Petroleum Jelly (aka VASELINE) that you placed between your thumb & middle/index finger tips to apply a very thin coat.
Shops often simply snip the ends of the cables near the end caps because they have a jar/bag full of new end caps to use & they are usually tossing the old cable; so, it isn't worth the extra minute of their time. You can do the same if you want to if your new shifters come with end caps for the cables ... but, unless you have a good pair of Dikes OR the wire cutter porition on your pliers is fairly good, I think that it is faster to remove the end cap. Otherwise, using a pair of pliers, try to apply only enough pressure to relax the pinch ... if you manage to make the cap almost round, then you can probably re-use it if you want to.
Well, I must admit I never knew it was simple.
I will probably take your advice and get the bike-only tools...they will come in handy in the future anyway. I already have the Allen wrenches and pliers. I am a professional musician, but I don't think I'd worry too much about injuring myself. At any rate, thanks for the instructions, and the website links. I didn't realize this was the cheapest option. I might be also posting in the near future if I have any newbie questions about if something doesn't fit or something.
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