Cork Tape or Foam Tubes?
View Full Version : Cork Tape or Foam Tubes?
Hi,
I'm new to this dropped bar biz, and I want to fit a different stem.
Is tape or foam better (tape at the moment of course)?
And how difficult are they to fit? I've had a look at the Park Tools pages, and it looks
straightforward to apply tape.
Also, I'm not sure about routing brake and bar-end shifter cables under foam tubes.
Any thoughts or experiences gratefully received.
--
Jon
____________________________________________
jondotrogersatntlworlddotcom
============================================
Jon Rogers wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm new to this dropped bar biz, and I want to fit a different stem.
>
> Is tape or foam better (tape at the moment of course)?
>
> And how difficult are they to fit? I've had a look at the Park Tools pages, and it looks
> straightforward to apply tape.
>
> Also, I'm not sure about routing brake and bar-end shifter cables under foam tubes.
>
> Any thoughts or experiences gratefully received.
I'd be surprised if you could route cables under foam tape.
Jon Rogers wrote:
> Is tape or foam better (tape at the moment of course)?
Cork tape offers minimal padding but good grip. Foam can be too squashy (I didn't like the foam
tubing I tried years ago* but I suppose there are different types now). There are other options,
including using two layers of tape; spongy plastic tape; foam strips to be added underneath ordinary
tape; gel mitts.
* in the days before cables went under the bars.
~PB
Jon Rogers <see_my.sig@end_of.message> writes:
> Hi,
>
> I'm new to this dropped bar biz, and I want to fit a different stem.
>
> Is tape or foam better (tape at the moment of course)?
>
> And how difficult are they to fit? I've had a look at the Park Tools pages, and it looks
> straightforward to apply tape.
Tape's easy, foam is much more difficult. Use lots of aerosol shaving foam (seriously).
> Also, I'm not sure about routing brake and bar-end shifter cables under foam tubes.
Not especially difficult.
> Any thoughts or experiences gratefully received.
This is all a matter of preference and road shock. Fifteen years ago when commuting about 24 miles a
day round trip every day and doing a lot of on-road longer trips I had a passion for 'grab-on' foam
and would not have anything else on my bike. I found it reduced tingly-hands enormously. Ten years
ago when I was commuting 42 miles a day round trip but only when it wasn't raining I used handlebar
tape. It was on a different bike and on better roads, and I was doing my 'recreational' cycling on
my hill bike, but nevertheless I was doing more miles and not suffering so badly with tingly hands.
So, in summary, both can be good. If you're suffering a lot from road shock, and getting problems in
your hands, foam will help (provided it's good quality - the cheap foam is not worth having. But
probably different front forks would make just as much difference, and so might a change of stem
which rebalanced the proportion of weight going on your hands.
--
simon@jasmine.org.uk (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
;; I'd rather live in sybar-space
"Jon Rogers" <see_my.sig@end_of.message> wrote in message
news:slrnbnjgd5.n0e.see_my.sig@viking.cathcart...
> Hi,
>
> I'm new to this dropped bar biz, and I want to fit a different stem.
>
> Is tape or foam better (tape at the moment of course)?
I think its personal preference. I use "grab-on" style foam tube. Others prefer tape.
> And how difficult are they to fit? I've had a look at the Park Tools pages, and it looks
> straightforward to apply tape.
Tube is easy. Lubricate the tubes with a little water before applying. To remove, use some sort of
small stick to raise the tube a little, then a sponge to work in water under the tube. I've tried
other lubrication methods for tubes and water is as good as any.
> Also, I'm not sure about routing brake and bar-end shifter cables under foam tubes.
Top tube grip is no problem (I think - my bike is so ancient that the brakes are "classic" type,
but the gear shifters (Suntour) route under the top grip.). Not sure about bar-ends, suspect they
may need a bit more thought, or the tube to be split at some point (whereupon it will probably
tear in time).
Nigel
M Series <spamyou@127.0.0.1> wrote:
> I'd be surprised if you could route cables under foam tape.
I have, with non Aero hoods and no groove on the bars, it wasn't that difficult
--
Marc Please note this is now a redundant email address. Add an extra c at the end of marc to email.
"Pete Biggs" <pbiggmellon{remove_fruit}s2000@onetel.net.uk> wrote in message
news:<blcjai$akup3$1@ID-144931.news.uni-berlin.de>...
> Jon Rogers wrote:
>
> > Is tape or foam better (tape at the moment of course)?
>
> Cork tape offers minimal padding but good grip. Foam can be too squashy (I didn't like the foam
> tubing I tried years ago* but I suppose there are different types now). There are other options,
> including using two layers of tape; spongy plastic tape; foam strips to be added underneath
> ordinary tape; gel mitts.
>
Halfords, of all places, does good plastic foam bar tape for a fiver. It *sounds* cheap and nasty,
but from my own experience, it's been good stuff - similar in appearance to cork tape, but a bit
comfier without losing any grip, and probably a couple of quid cheaper.
David E. Belcher
On Tue, 30 Sep 2003 19:53:59 +0100, "Pete Biggs"
<pbiggmellon{remove_fruit}s2000@onetel.net.uk> wrote:
>Jon Rogers wrote:
>
>> Is tape or foam better (tape at the moment of course)?
>
>Cork tape offers minimal padding but good grip. Foam can be too squashy (I didn't like the foam
>tubing I tried years ago* but I suppose there are different types now). There are other options,
>including using two layers of tape; spongy plastic tape; foam strips to be added underneath
>ordinary tape; gel mitts.
>
>* in the days before cables went under the bars.
>
>~PB
>
Foam, oh ha-ha, funny. Sorry. Just remembering when I got my first set of foam grips. The fitting
notes suggested using some washing up liquid to help slide 'em on to the bars.
Didn't say anything about (NOT) going out in the rain afterwards. Hell, it was like holding two very
soaped-up sponges for weeks afterwards.
Took months before I could go out in public if there was any hint of moisture in the sky.
Gary
--------------------------------------------------
Reply to gary at data dot mildenhall dot com
--------------------------------------------------
Gary Sinnott <dip_spammers_in_acid@null.net> of BT Openworld wrote:
>Foam, oh ha-ha, funny. Sorry. Just remembering when I got my first set of foam grips. The fitting
>notes suggested using some washing up liquid to help slide 'em on to the bars.
>
>Didn't say anything about (NOT) going out in the rain afterwards. Hell, it was like holding two
>very soaped-up sponges for weeks afterwards.
>
>Took months before I could go out in public if there was any hint of moisture in the sky.
What you need is hair spray. Spray the bars so they are wet, slide the foam grips on, then it dries
all sticky and keeps the grips in position.
Now what do I do with the rest of the can?
--
Someone told me that each equation I included in the book would halve the sales. Stephen W. Hawking
Steph Peters delete invalid from incm@sandbenders.demon.co.uk.invalid Tatting, lace & stitching page
<http://www.sandbenders.demon.co.uk/index.htm
"Steph Peters" <urcy@sandbenders.demon.co.uk.invalid> wrote in message
news:0gemnv8ot8buep01b5rkbjfpn679920hjn@4ax.com...
> Gary Sinnott <dip_spammers_in_acid@null.net> of BT Openworld wrote:
> >Foam, oh ha-ha, funny. Sorry. Just remembering when I got my first set of foam grips. The fitting
> >notes suggested using some washing up liquid to help slide 'em on to the bars.
> >
> >Didn't say anything about (NOT) going out in the rain afterwards. Hell, it was like holding two
> >very soaped-up sponges for weeks afterwards.
Been there. Stupid instructions aren't they :-)
> >Took months before I could go out in public if there was any hint of moisture in the sky.
>
> What you need is hair spray. Spray the bars so they are wet, slide the
foam
> grips on, then it dries all sticky and keeps the grips in position.
No, what you need is water. Dampen the bars and the insides of the grips. Slide them on. Within a
day they will dry out and grip firmly.
Remove by application of a little water from ends of grips and work it along by slightly rotating
the grips.
Technique also works for rubber grips on MTBs.
Nigel
"NC" <ncliffe@talk21.com> wrote in message news:blgk5a$bm95g$1@ID-100732.news.uni-berlin.de...
> No, what you need is water. Dampen the bars and the insides of the grips. Slide them on. Within a
> day they will dry out and grip firmly.
>
> Remove by application of a little water from ends of grips and work it
along
> by slightly rotating the grips.
Mine were going nowhere until I injected water under the grips in the middle (requires a handy
hypodermic though!)
cheers, clive
vBulletin, Copyright ©2000-2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by
vBSEO 3.3.0
