stevek
My lighting consists of 18v power from twp NiCad packs. A LVR this is a power regulator that knocks the power down to 16v and controls the light well. It lets you overvolt the bulb for a lot more light.
I used a mr11 20w bulb (all I could find locally) 12v in my lights and motion commuter light.
Well this overheated and killed the switch. I soldered the wires right to the board and this worked on my two hour test run in my shop I recharged the batteries using a great computer controlled fast charger for rc cars. Nothing like only caking 1 hour to charge these big battery packs.
Well on the ride home I was enjoying all of the light. But I tilted the light and it went out. The solder had melted on the bulb mounting plate.
I really need a new housing and I can use some help. One fellow as told me how to get a nightrider housing but I wonder if it can take the heat?
I used a mr11 20w bulb (all I could find locally) 12v in my lights and motion commuter light.
Well this overheated and killed the switch. I soldered the wires right to the board and this worked on my two hour test run in my shop I recharged the batteries using a great computer controlled fast charger for rc cars. Nothing like only caking 1 hour to charge these big battery packs.
Well on the ride home I was enjoying all of the light. But I tilted the light and it went out. The solder had melted on the bulb mounting plate.
I really need a new housing and I can use some help. One fellow as told me how to get a nightrider housing but I wonder if it can take the heat?
