Upgrade from Flatbar to Road - Page 2

prhino · #16 03-06.-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by artemidorus

Watch out for makers that swap out various parts of the groupset for their house/cheaper brand -this may not be too bad, but you could try asking for real Shim/Campy instead.

You're right, this may not be too bad. Felt, for instance, use decent substitution components.

anthonyg · #17 03-06.-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by climbo

anthony, why the setback seatpost? A more relaxed seat angle may have given you a better fit. An extended head tube would have been nice also, does Hillbrick not do them?

Yes Thylacine gave the correct answer. I was in a retro-grouch mood and insisted on lugs. The origional design called for a 69º seat tube angle but I said to steepen it a little if that was required for lugs and so its built at 71º.

If I was to do it again I would go without the lugs to make it a lot easier on the builder. Also at the time of the fitting I was using butterfly bars instead of drops and they were better lower but when I went to drops I needed them higher. I can use the drops lower but I have no power which defeats the purpose so they had to come up and in future I would get a frame built with a taller head tube.

EDIT: and I should add that I could and did use a standard seatpost but I just happened to have a setback post on hand and that it supports the saddle rails better than a standard post would.

Regards, Anthony

artemidorus · #18 03-06.-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by prhino

You're right, this may not be too bad. Felt, for instance, use decent substitution components.

Of all the groupset, the bit that I'd most like to be Shimano is the crankset, yet this seems to be the part they swap out first. To be honest, even if I had a Campy Record bike, I'd still put a Shim. crankset on it.

mikesbytes · #19 03-06.-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jotjepoes

II'm pretty sure I need a WSD as I'm small (5ft) and also have very small hands. I

Just thought I'd add that WSD isn't really about your overall height, its more to do with the body shape differences between a male and female of the same height. Compared to a male of the same height, females usually have longer legs, shorter body, wider hips, narrower shoulders etc. A propely designed WSD will differ from the male equivilant in having a wider seat, shorter top tube, narrower and smaller handlebars and easier reach to the brakes, to cater for smaller hands.

650c wheels have higher rolling resitance than 700c wheels, so if your legs are long enought for 700c wheels, I'd recommend them.

anthonyg · #20 03-07.-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikesbytes

650c wheels have higher rolling resitance than 700c wheels, so if your legs are long enought for 700c wheels, I'd recommend them.

Whats with the predudice against 650c wheels?

Not that long ago it was believed that 650c wheels were FASTER than 700c wheels because they were more aerodynamic.

The truth is that there pluses and minuses for both 650c and 700c and its awash realy.

I'm obviously riding a 650c bike and when it comes to rolling down a hill with a group of riders on 700c bikes I will roll away on them. Its not that I'm heavy either because at 57 kg I'm a featherweight. No it can only come down to better aerodynamics so if there is any real difference in rolling resistance between the different wheels it doesn't amount to anything in the real world.

Also you mentioned that one of the supposed differences between a WSD bike and a mens bike is shorter top tube length for women and the only way to genuinely acheive this on small frames is to go to smaller wheels.

Regards, Anthony

craigdurkee · #21 03-12.-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jotjepoes

I bought a flat bar road bike (Sublime 2) about 14 months ago and really love it and have got completely hooked on riding. I'm at the stage where I'm researching getting a road bike, trying to work out what I want, what is realisitic and so I know what to save for. I'm hoping to get something for the next "Round the Bay" in Melbourne.

I'm pretty sure I need a WSD as I'm small (5ft) and also have very small hands. I've got a few questions which I hope some of you can answer:

1. I went into a bike store close to home, and the guy I spoke to said there were 3 types of carbon used for bikes: Chinese made carbon, Taiwanese made carbon and US carbon. The latter 2 are good but not the first - any truth to this? After talking to him further, I gather that Scott and Canondale (both of which they stock), some of the better Specialised use Taiwanese made carbon. Whereas Giant and Avanti use the Chinese made carbon. Any views on this?

2. What's the advantage of an Ultegra set over a 105 set? And of a Dura-Ace set over an Ultegra set? What's the difference in weight (I've heard conflicting amounts ranging from 175g to 500 g)? Anything else?

3. Any recommendations on a WSD road bike? My flatbar is about 12kg, so I'm looking to get something lighter than that so I can really go on the hills. I assume this means carbon and a price tag of at least $3,000+? I'm still saving (and I'm a good saver), but I guess the more expensive the bike, the longer it will be before I get it. Models I've been thinking about - Subzero (3 or pro), Specialised Ruby, Scott Contessa CR1. Any views or suggestions?

Thanks

Im in the same boat as you, if your in victoria i know goldcross are outing some carbon framed ultegra models for only 2200 a$

www.goldcross.com.au

enjoy

Jotjepoes · #22 03-12.-2007

Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately, nothing there on sale that would fit me. Good luck with your search.

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