frame material, steel vs aluminum - Page 3

Frame material is not terrible important for the strength of a bike. Aluminium fatigue isn't really a factor unless you ride like Armstrong. Tires and geometry
are more important than frame material for comfort.

My opinion is that you get some mid-range components (105) and spend some money to get a nice and strong wheelset.

If you want something for the road and the trails, perhaps you can check out a Hybrid. Giant's CRX series are apparently quite good, and they would be able to fit fatter tyres than road racers. Or else you could look at the Avanti Blade series or Trek hybrids.

__________________
2004 Trek 1000
2005 Giant Elwood
ACE Folding Bicycle

Okay, sorry to (also) change the equation at such a late point in your decision process ...

But, for a "first" bike to ease you back into cycling ... here's a bike I seriously think you should consider -- the cost is low, and it will satisfy your needs for this year:

It is completely devoid of any cool factor of any kind ... it is available at PERFORMANCE BIKE ... it is classified as a hybrid/comfort-bike ... it comes with FAT, 700x37 tires.



FWIW. PERFORMANCE BIKE sells FUJI in their walk-in stores ... I don't know if they have the Fuji Touring bike at any of them, but I would think they would ...

You can get a list of their walk-in stores by checking their website (http://www.performancebike.com/inform/store_locations.cfm or www.performancebike.com/) ... there may be one close to where you live OR where you will be (there are three in Maryland, including B'more -- one may be close to where you will be). CALL & ask ... about availability AND how long it will take for them to set the bike up if you walk-in & want to walk out with the bike.

BTW. Remember, all the components can be changed at some point ... the only (?) true problem with less expensive components is that they weigh more ... and, the main reason that they generally don't last is because of lack of maintenance. EVERYTHING can be changed -- you can change the 'flat' bar to road bars, the shifters/crank/derailleurs/etc can be changed, the fork can be changed & you can get a "spare" set of wheels with narrower rims so that you can use 700x28 (or, smaller) tires.

Oh, yes ... that bike is only $400, right now.

DON'T FORGET -- you will need a helmet! Gloves & shoes are optional, but recommended. I prefer Shimano's shoes as I think they are roomier ... others apparently disagree. The Shimano M030 is a utlitarian cycling shoe that you can use with clipless, or not ... and, not too expensive (you can get a really expensive pair of shoes, later, if the need/desire arises).

An air pump & tire patch kit are also a good idea, too.

thnaks everyone
mongoose is a bargain but not what i am looking for
raleighroader... what do you ride?
there is a shop nearby that is big on raleigh
i had a raleigh grand pric=x in white in the 70's back in high school
loved igt
the raleigh cx bike looks nice
love the color
but it is a double notn triple chainring setup
cna you suggest another raleigh
if not
i will likely order my spec tricross tomorrow
still debating sport vs comp version
sprort has more flash with red highlights onblack frame
comp is a step up however
decisions decisions decisions

Dont forget to ask your shop for a set of strong wheels.

Tsk. Tsk.

Sadly, I was wrong -- no one stepped up and validated your choice of a Specialized Tricross ... YET, you are going ahead with your prior choice ... a brave soldier!

Just be advised, that for the price of the Comp, you could do much better now or in the future. For your reference, check:

http://www.coloradocyclist.com/

&

http://www.excelsports.com/new.asp?page=1

EXCEL caters to CX riders, but it is off-season, and their mail-order & website catalog probably doesn't have much right now.

Ask to be put both mailing lists ... if only for future reference.

COLORADO CYLCIST (or, was it EXCEL) used to sell a ready-to-ride REDLINE CONQUEST for about $1100+ (a real bargain on a pretty nice bike), but apparently REDLINE is not allowing mail-order sales of their bikes for the time being (i.e., walk-in, only). BUT, there are certainly REDLINE dealers close to where you live or travel.

The Redline Conquest will be a better CX bike than either Specialized bike -- it is actually the choice of many who race competitively who aren't sponsored riders.

Currently, Colorado Cyclist is carrying this SALSA frame (below) for the cost of the Fuji and/or Jamis:

SALSA Las Cruces Cross Frame/Fork
Salsa Cycles is without question the "Top Dog" when it comes to Cyclo-Cross frames. The Las Cruces is one of the most sought after Cross framesets in ... More SALAAA1
$899.00Reg. $1060.00Save 15%


But, it would be a better bike than the Specialized Tricross Comp.

HABENERO makes/sells mighty-fine Titanium frames at a very reasonable cost ... and, you should investigate those BEFORE putting your money down on any Specilized frame.

BTW/FWIW. There is a recent thread regarding Specialized bikes, in general, that you may want to read:


The reason for being a fan of Specialized by one poster is valid ... particularly, read her "last" post.

i have not put my money into anything
not yet
just got back from rounds at the hospital
may shop later
what was it you wanted from your posts alfeng?
were you looking to bait someone else into the discusion?
were you trying to get others to ofer advice for or against specialized?
i appreciate your time and efforts helping me, i really do
if you have a reason why i should avoid the specialized
i will listen
hey, once told something valid a rational guy listens

i would not hang out with that moron in the news with tb any more than i would buy a bike that someone more experienced has reasons for me to avoid

so, tell me what to do, or not do, and i will heed your advice
i may go to the raliegh guy later
but his cx bike is a double
i thought i wanted a triple
i may seek a surly after all
god this is taking so long!!!!

My Raleigh is a 1998 aluminum model; not relevant to your current decision. My more recent bike is a 2006 Trek 5000 carbon. I do most of my commuting on the old Raleigh.

I have been a Clydesdale for most of the time I owned the Raleigh, about your weight. Don't worry that you are too heavy for any type of frame. As someone else said, though, you will want to have good wheels.

Currently I have my old Raleigh spec'd with 36 spoke rear wheel and 32 spoke front, running 25c tires for my commuting.

ok so now i realy need help
went to 3 local shops

1s was a raleigh place with few bikes to shoe, not much help at all, but they claim they can get a sury and build it for me, which the other 2 say they can't but also this is the smallest of the 3 shops and is run by one main guy and a few helpers here and there so i worry about reliability over time

2nd was the fuji/jamis place, not too many bikes in stock, mostly fuji roubaix (odd they use the same name as a specialized model) and a few newest models, overall underwhelmed with the help so i left for yet another visit to our local big shop, mostly a specialzied place, some trek too

3rd place, well they were going to sway me to order the tricross, eother sport or comp, but then one worker and my son sort of gsnged up on me and tried to get me to take a sequoia off the floor, not an elite so less carbon elements, pretty paint and all, but 23 tires and y;all have read my concerns and desires for a wider tire, so now i am make to contemplating the tricross, the sport has a higher spoke count wheels on the comp are said to be good for heavier riders per the specialzed website, so what do i do, and are cantilever brakes a bad thing, help me please

Going back to the aluminium vs steel issue, an old thread has popped up again recently with people raving about aluminum.
http://cyclingforums.com/t-375685-15-1.html

I've had both, and found aluminium better. All that proves is that you get what you pay for, and it wouldn't put me off getting steel in future. It may well be that some of the early Al bikes sufferred from designers who weren't used to the material, which could have put off a lot of people who tried them and went back to their steel bikes.

At the small shop the guy running it probably has a bigger stake in making sure the customers are happy. That doesn't help if he gets hit by a bus of course, but for me the size of the shop isn't that big a deal.

Paris-Roubaix is a race that is known for the bad roads it uses. The manufacturers are probably trying to say that those bikes sacrifice a bit of speed compared to other road racing bikes for better durability and comfort.

Cantilevers probably don't give quite as much control as calipers, but they provide much more tyre clearance.

The Tricross has had some great reviews, but this thread doesn't seem to have been noticed by anyone who rides one. Have you ridden one? The geometry on the two models you are considering is the same, so I might consider test riding one then ordering the other, but if you haven't ridden a Tricross at all then buying one is a bit of a leap into the unknown.

thanks
i have gone for a short ride on a tricross and it was fine

for me as a novice returning to a bike the ride was more focused on not falling, and every test ride so far has hurt my butt, so i need to learn how to sit properly and find a bike to buy, autumn and winter are fast approachning at the rate i am going!

i wonder if i would get more bike for the money if i skipped the cyclocroos thing and went for a road bike... the worry for me is if i ever hit a should, or a dirt road, or decide to ride on rails-to-trails (whatever that is, but i have heard it can be very nice and scenic) then a 23 or 25 tire won't do well and i could hurt the bike or myself

now if a 23 tire would be ok on such a ride then a sequoia elite or even aregular level sequoia or going up to a specialized roubaix with triple chainrings might be good options

see my dilema, i am not in shape and not an outside athelete by anyone's standards but the cx bike does sem to offer best of all options

i am excluding trek tx series and specialized sirrus due to the flat bars, since i think over time i will want drop bars for more options

i am worried about the posts of some specialized haters out there, but eveyone loves one brand and hates another i guess, just look are cars and motorcycles, and boy do i want a harley but the wife is gonna flip with this bike so forget that pipe dream for now i suppose

send more advice, i need to buy or order something this week

Your behind is going to take some time to get used to riding again. Dont worry about it.

23/25 tyres wont cut it on trails, I wouldnt go there with anything less than a 32. A CX bike would have sufficient clearance to take 32 tyres or even wider.

With whatever bike road, CX or touring you finally decide, I have to say that it is far more important to your peace of mind to get a strong set of wheels built for you. You DO NOT have to take the stock wheels that come with the bike, some shops will gladly allow you to "trade up" to stronger wheels.

[/QUOTE] the worry for me is if i ever hit a should, or a dirt road, or decide to ride on rails-to-trails [/QUOTE]The key word here is IF. If you want to cover all options, then you have to compromise, there is no one do-it-all perfectly bike. What if you dont go on the dirt roads?

If in the future you do, then perhaps you can buy a MTB to properly hit the trails, this is more a safety thing than a bike thing.

On cantilever brakes, you dont have to worry that they dont give you sufficient braking power. This is of course if they have been set up properly. I have used road calipers, MTB V-brakes, and got Cantis on my tourer, and they all work well at stopping the bike.

Found this description of the Sequoia

"A great alternative to the conventional road bike, the Sequoia range offer a more upright riding position, larger width tyres for a smoother ride, and wide range gearing that will take you up any mountain. Based on touring bike designs but with a compact frame, the Sequoia offers the perfect solution for long rides where comfort is of the most concern"

Sounds good. Another point to consider if you are still considering road bikes, is the riding position that you will be in. You might find yourself in a more "racy" position, which you may not find comfortable. Just more food for thought.

thomas
glad i am not the only one with a late night biorhythm
but soon to bed so i can make hospital rounds in the am
but as for your post
i know it is a compromise
no one do-it-all bike exists
but isn't a cx bike the next best thing?
and isn't a specialized tric cross a worthy bike?
if you answer yes to those questions
and if i have the money
do i get the sport or go for the comp?
both are triples but the comp has a bit more carbon
and by the way, are canti brakes gonna be a problem for me
i amy jsut say to hell with trails and grass and gravel and get a roubaix or sequoia instead
i will go to sleep and hope to awaken to yours and other replies
gonna try to order something tomorrow after rounds
2 bike shops near me are open on sunday
both are big shops, well staff, found nunmber 2 today
both carry spec and trek, number 2 is higher end with seven and others too
but those are beyond me, for now anyway
sned more help
much appreciated good night

Hiya,

I dont think I will get into a Carbon discussion here. But my personal opinion (even though I ride a full carbon bike) is that I didnt really need it (I mainly wanted it). So its up to your personal preferences.

The CX/touring bikes are a flexible choice in the sense that you could run narrow (23C) or wider (32C or wider) on it. But this is only if you are willing change out the tyres , ie when going on paved roads ride a 23C, and when on trails change out to a 32C. Alternatively you could get two wheelsets.

You could of course ride 32C tyres full time, but they (32C) will roll slower than the narrower ones.

My personal opinion is that you do not have very much to worry about in terms of frame material, aluminum, steel or carbon. Your bike choice (the ones you have mentioned) is really a matter of preference, and budget. You have obviously bothered to think carefully about your choice, and so your final decision will be an informed decision.

So just get the bike, a good set of wheels, a good bike fit and get riding soon!

I have to remind you that there is nothing sacred about the way a bike is set up when you receive it from a shop/wherever. Just as you can change the tire size, you can change almost every component that is on a bike frame.

As an example, many people change the saddle within a few weeks, if not immediately.

You can change the bars, later ... or, not. Some people choose to change the drop/ROAD bars on their bike to FLAT bars, and vice-versa. Some people change the drop bars on their road bike to one that is shaped differently OR wider/narrower.

A lot of people never change anything on a bike (except replacing the tires/tubes/cables when they "wear out").

Parts you may put on your "first" new bike upon returning to cycling can be removed, and the original parts put back on the bike ... so, if you get things worth keeping (e.g., Campagnolo shifters) which may not come on a subsequent road bike, then you can install them on your next bike when the time comes.

Sometimes brand loyalty is good, sometimes it isn't. Regardless, it really isn't for ME to tell anyone what bike OR component(s) to buy, or not buy ...

Now, if the ONLY problem you are having with the Raleigh that you were looking at is that it has a double instead of a triple, well THAT is easily remedied ... now, or later. You may actually find that a road double (53/39) & "standard" (whatever that is!) gearing (usually, something like a 12-25 cassette, BTW) to be more-than-sufficient.

One immediate-or-future option is to have the shop install a so-called "compact" crank (usually 50/34) and/or an 11-32 cassette. This may, of course cost, but if the bike is in-stock AND they discount for end of the season, the final cost shouldn't be more than the bust-out retail cost. To make a Shimano rear derailleur handle a rear cog larger than the spec'd 27t, you simply have to change the upper 11t pulley wheel to a 10t pulley wheel ($10, maximum).

MANY shops will often change the cassette on a new bike without an upcharge ... particularly, if you are paying close to the MSRP. Same for stem length and/or handlebar width (on a road bar).

FWIW. Another, simpler option if the bike you prefer has only a double is to simply have the dealer install an XT-or-LX rear derailleur (XTR if you feel like spending more money) + an 11-34 rear cluster. Depending on what he has, there may be a charge -- if the upcharge is equal to what it would cost you for the cassette & derailleur, then buy them yourself via mail order AND install them yourself (much easier to do than you might think) ... keep the orignal "stuff" for later OR sell it on eBay.

If the shifters are 9-speed, so much the better. If they are 10-speed, then I have found that the hubbub.com alternate anchor position for the rear derailleur cable (normally used to index a 10-speed Campagnolo shifter to a 9-speed Shimano cassette) should also work in theory to make a 9-speed Shimano rear derailleur act like a 10-speed Shimano rear derailleur when mated with a 10-speed Shimano shifter & 10-speed cassette -- that is, to "simulate" the hubbub.com anchoring, I briefly installed a 10-speed Shimano rear derailleur with its normal anchoring, and it SEEMED to work on a non-road, workstand test ... your results (and, my subsequent results!) may vary.

A road double (e.g., 53/39) & an 11-34 will give you almost as low a gearing as a triple (52/39/30) with a 12-27 cassette. Shimano doesn't make a 10-speed 11-34, yet, but SRAM supposedly has one, now, As far as I know.

Don't be put off by the generalized & unglamorous nature of a(ny) HYBRID bike -- a HYBRID can be thought of as a (quasi-)touring bike with an aluminum frame & flat handlebars. And, as I noted before, a 29er (very fashionable) can be thought of as either a glorified HYBRID (i.e., even fatter tires + nicer components) or an overgrown MTB.

Drop bars + Campagnolo shifters + handlebar tape + misc. will cost you between $200-to-whatever/($500-or-more-if-you-want) and can be retrofitted on a bike which initially comes with a flat/MTB handlebar.

BTW/FWIW2. I "love" Shimano components AND their North American customer service has been great whenever I have contacted them, but Campagnolo shifters are superior because they can downshift effortlessly when under load (already going uphill). Supposedly, this has been remedied with the 10-speed Shimano shifters. I don't know (yet). I do know that with the 8-and-9-speed Shimano shifters, "learning" to pre-shift before starting an ascent was almost essential. All this is moot for a Flatlander ... but, Flatlanders don't need wide gear ratios OR use triples, either.

BTW2. The next time you are in a bike shop, ask to see a REALLY EXPENSIVE frameset (without components -- a MOOTS would be a great example) ... the visible difference may not be obvious when you first look at it, but if you compare the "quality" of the welding on the high-zoot frame to a low-end (under $1000) TREK (for example) ... one should be close to flawless, the other utilitarian. Sometimes, you pay more for the latest-and-greatest technology, better craftsmanship, or better components ... but, if you don't need any of them (not everyone drives a Bentley), then why spend the money right now even if your budget will allow you to spend more UNTIL you really know what kind of bike(s) you want? It's just my opinion, but I don't think that Specialized bikes, for example (but, I feel the same about Cannondale & Pinarello), warrant any premium for what you are getting.

I've said it before, there are only two groups of people (IMO) who shouldn't do (but, at least know how to do) their own bicycle maintenance -- surgeons & hand models for whom a "slip" might endanger their livelihood. Everyone else should be capable of doing "stuff" on the side of the road on their bikes as needed EVEN if someone else (e.g., spouse) ultimately does it.

BTW. While I won't absolutely recommend against any frame (you know, if you ultimately decide that you like the Specialized more than any of the others, then that is a valid choice) ...

The ONE thing I will unequivocally advise against your getting are SRAM components (and, they may be the greatest in the world) because I have found their customer support to be severely wanting in North America (who knows what it is like, elsewhere?!?) ... but, if customer service after a sale isn't important to you, then what the heck, take a chance and get a SRAM product and hope for the best.

Shimano NA (Irvine, CA) has been great whenever I have contacted them.

In that vein, DT-Swiss/Hugi has great customer service, too.

I've never needed anything from Campagnolo that wasn't readily available.

Regarding RALEIGH -- a weld on neighbor's Raleigh MTB frame cracked, and RALEIGH replaced it without any hesitation.