Advice for sizing and is it a light bike?

Im looking to buy this bike

Evans Cycles | Claud Butler Echelon 2009 Road Bike | Online Bike Shop

And im not sure if its a light frame? It doesn't say.
Would anyone know if thats known to be light?

Im also 6.2" and wondering what CM bike i need? im guessing 59,60CM?

Also would you think the bike is worth it? Dont want to order it and find out that its not my size and its not very light. I need light as possible.

Also anyone know how many gears this actually has? It has 16? My old road bike has 21. and that was alot cheaper.

Are they split on this bike like 16 is the equivalent to 21?

go to a bike shop and get a bike fit. they'll measure your inseam and take it from there. if you're honest with them, they should have no problem helping you out even if you are not buying the bike from them, especially as a first timer.

that's a good bike all in all and the weight should not be an issue no matter what it is. it's the rider, not the bike.

good luck.

Thank you, i was told that i will need a 60CM +

That all they really need to mesure isn't it? My balls to the top tube?

a real go getter, aintcha? what your language young man, from first hand experience i can tell you it'll only get you into trouble on these forums. keep it clean and you'll gain a bit more respect and have more people offer insight, not to mention the more intelligent ones which is what you want.

anywho, somewhat is the answer and it's referred to as standover height. as a first bike that should more than likely be your most basic of principles to fit a bike with and it'll depend on your leg length, known as inseam. i'm a 32 cm inseam and i ride a 56.5 cm bike.

now my bike has a sloped top tube so the standover rule does not really apply.

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What happened to your current bike?

Of the bikes sizes listed, the 59 CM frame is the one you want based on your height.

The frame, itself, may be relatively light (figure on ~1.5kg, perhaps as much as 2kg) but you can probably expect the bike's ready-to-roll weight to be between 10kg-and-11kg -- maybe less, maybe more -- because the components are not necessarily the lightest.

I presume your old bike had a triple chainring crankset & seven cogs on the back.

The Claud Butler has a double chainring crankset & eight cogs in the back.

Current (the past 12+ years) bikes often cost more than 20 years ago (just as an arbitrary time frame) because of inflation OR currency devaluation (there is a difference, but the net effect may be the same -- i.e., higher consumer prices) AND because most bikes now come with integrated shift-brake levers.

If the government is paying for it through the commute-to-work program, then the bike is probably "okay" ... but, for the money, I wouldn't spend as much as the listed cost for it.

For that amount of money, you can probably cobble together a nicer bike (i.e., a comparable frame with better components).

This is my current bike about 54-56cm and its not that light.

Oh by the way im doing the Cycle Scheme, so im getting the bike for £327 its 40% off nearly ? Gotta be worth it?

I have SPD pedals on this bike btw i removed flat ones.
http://i40.tinypic.com/xkr7k5.jpg

http://i40.tinypic.com/21ordjp.jpg

http://i40.tinypic.com/xp80lh.jpg

http://i43.tinypic.com/2m0nk3.jpg

http://i42.tinypic.com/33fgdau.jpg

Can you also give me an idea what is good components for example?

Shimano Cycling

click on road bike, put cursor in product.

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Anything is Possible.

other way around, click on product and go to road bike. as it's listed, from north to south, the dura ace is the top of the top and it goes down in value/price/quality all the way down to the 2200. the 105 is a great group albeit it is a by product of ultegra. i wouldn't go any lower than 105 although i have dropped racers with high end record and rival while on sora connected to a trek 1000, 52 cm at that.. some say it is exactly the same as ultegra, the 105.

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What would you rate the components on the Claud butler echelon out of 10?

What componets look bad on there and what ones look good?

What is the advantage of good components?

ALL Shimano components are good-or-better ... I would rate the particular components as a 4-to-4.5, where 3.0 is the lowest rating I would give to Shimano's least expensive components.

Less expensive Shimano components will generally work as well as the most expensive Shimano component, but they are heavier & not as mechanic-friendly (to coin a phrase) ... by which 'I' mean that a nicer bike generally only requires a pocketful of tools to work on (i.e., adjust) the components.

Better components are lighter, look nicer AND are mechanic- friendly.

The less expensive Shimano components are not interchangeable with the more expensive components; but, they would be interchangeable with some of the components used ~20 years ago.

Because of your height, you do need a larger frame ...

For $300US (so, about £150), I could buy a pair of Campagnolo shifters + almost everything but the wheels for a bike & the actual frame/fork.

Allow £200 for a set of pretty-good-but-not-great pair of wheels + cassette & chain (I would match the 10-speed Campagnolo shifters with an 8-speed Shimano cassette & Shimano-compatible wheel) ... if you are a wise shopper on eBay, then you can probably get the wheelset for closer to £100.

While some people willingly pay £2000+ for a frame, you could probably get a comparble frame/fork to the one on the Claud Butler for £100+ ... £200, for sure, would more than cover the cost of a comparable frame.

Most of the rest of the parts (e.g., saddle, perhaps the seatpost, too) can certainly be bought for under £100 AND/OR cannibalized from your current bike.

There are fewer bike-specific tools, now, than 20+ years ago; but, some are very much so.

99.5% of what you need to know to work on a bike is now freely available on the internet.

Thanks for the info.

What would you rate that bike overall out of 10?

Im coming up for 16.

And it will be my 2nd Road bike.

Cant buy a really expensive one at my age really.. :\

Gradually work my way up.

I would only rate the Claud Butler bike as a 5-out-of-10 ...

MOST of what is on your current frame can be used on a different ROAD bike frame ...

You should be able to use the wheels, brake levers + shifters, saddle, crank, bottom bracket, handlebars ...

The exceptions MAY-or-may-not be the front derailleur (because of the clamp size) and the seatpost (because the size still varies between frames, but the variation is limited to only a few sizes, now, compared to increments of 0.2mm from 25.0mm to 31.8mm in the past!).

The rear brake cable may need to be replaced with a longer one, but maybe not.

You MAY want to buy different brake calipers because your current brakes use hex nuts, and most "new" frames use recessed bolts ...

Your rear caliper should be good-to-go on a fork which uses a recessed nut BUT recessed nuts are generally over-priced (and, you will still need a caliper with a shorter bolt for the rear) ... and, an inexpensive pair of brake calipers is probably only a little more expensive as the cost of two recessed nuts; so, you really may be better off buying a pair of brake calipers.

The type of fork dictates the type of headset (which is also dictated by the frame) and the type of stem.

So, you only need a frame-and-fork, headset, older/non-OS stem ... perhaps a new front derailleur & a new seatpost ... plus, brake calipers ... plus, a headset + stem.

I'm going to guess a 120mm stem will work for you with a frame whose real-or-virtual top tube length is 58cm.

BEFORE you transfer parts from one frame to the other, just be sure you understand how it is attached to the old frame.

Your current derailleur cables appear to have enough excess length that they should be long enough for a larger frame.

The Bottom Bracket requires a bike specific tool for installation & removal. The crankset you have requires a crank puller to remove it + an 8mm Allen wrench to remove/install the crank bolts. You will need a chain "break"/tool to remove/install the chain. Most of the other tools you will need (e.g., Allen wrenches, regular wrenches, etc.) are available from a hardware store & the least expensive are usually good enough (professional auto mechanics require 'better' tools).

The ONLY true peculiarity you need to be aware of is that you will encounter LEFT HAND threading on two parts ... and, you already know that from the pedal on the left crank arm. The OTHER left hand thread is on the driveside BB "cup" ...


If you don't have bicycle-specific tools, then I suggest that you consider buying an inexpensive bicycle tool kit (the kind that probably retails for about £65 & comes in a notebook sized plastic case -- they are available for about half that much through mail-order in the States, so hopefully the same is true where you are) ... you could just buy the few bike-specific tools you need, but the cost may be close to the mail order price of the toolkit (some of the tools will be high quality, some not so much so) ... so, let your wallet be your guide.

You will also need some white lithium grease (available at most stores which have an automotive section).

Take your current bike apart and then put it back together ...

First, take the front wheel off. Put it back on.

Take the rear wheel off. Put it back on.

Loosen the handlebar stem and slide it part of the way out of the fork & slide it back in -- secure.

Take the seatpost out of the frame (put a piece of tape at the junction of the seatpost & frame so you know how far to put it back into the frame) & put it back on.

Assembling a new bike from the ground up isn't much more complicated than that -- and, while you cannot be a complete klutz and expect to put a bike together from scratch, the skill level is generally what is required for opening a jar of pickles & putting the lid back on.


Frames ARE available separately. As I said, the price range is wide; but, a comparable frame should be available for £200-or-less if you just look around.

Heck, you can get a new Carbon Fibre frame from eBay (from Asia) for about £200 + shipping (duty extra, of course) ... some are listed with some of the loose stuff you would need (headset, seatpost) for around £250, I think ... use those frames as a price benchmark for how much you should pay for an aluminum frame (i.e., LESS) OR a complete bike. Of course, you'll need one of your parents to make the actual transaction.

I think that spending about £400 for parts & tools + some of your time is better than spending £549 which the Claud Butler will cost.

Depending on the frame & fork, with the same components, the I would rate the 'new' bike as a 5-or-6 out of 10.


In the future, when you feel like spending more money, I would be looking at a pair of pre-2009 Campagnolo 10-speed shifters (based on the here-and-now) which should be available for £100, or less!?!

I would then use a Shimano 9-speed Ultegra-or-MTB rear derailleur & chain.

BUT, I would use an 8-speed Shimano cassette.

The odd combination is close-to-perfectly matched with one-another.

BTW. If you don't have any younger siblings, then I think that you would be able to sell the remnants that you don't transfer (frame/fork/headset + stem + brake calipers +/- the front derailleur +/- seatpost) for between £40-to-£90.

If you do have younger siblings, then just plan on moving the cannibalized parts back onto your "old"/(current) frame if-and-when you make any upgrades to whatever frame you buy-and-build-up.

If you were to get one of the Asian Carbon Fibre frames (most CF bicycle frames are fabricated in Asia, now), and change the shifters & derailleurs in the future, then for less than about £200, more, you could have a bike that would be about a 7 out of 10 -- a significantly better bike for only a little more than (and, if you are a wise shopper, less than) the cost of the Claud Butler.

Im buying the bike for £327 im using the CycleShceme, if you've heard of it?

About £220 off.

I was told about it in my local bike shop.

The old bike i get, will be riding to my friends house and back when i go to school.

are you more worried about the frame or the components?

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Anything is Possible.

What bike you on about lol, sorry.

Current one, or one im buying?