Recommendations for a Puncture Proof Kevlar belted tire - Page 2

I thought it was the other way around. I mean you should inlfate to max to reduce puncture and rolling resistance.

As it happens this is my first year on a road bike and glass has given me far too many punctures I've decided to get a puncture resistant tire.

So is it still the armadillo, Conti 4 Season that are the champs of that category? Any new advice on this (since this is an old thread).

I thought that too for many years, but when I got new Michelin Pro Race tires a few years ago, noticed they had an inflation range on the sidewall of 6-8 bar (87-116 psi)rather than just a max rating. This, plus some reading, convinced me to try the lower pressures. What I found was fewer flats, longer tire life, better ride and grip, faster descending, and a better, smoother ride....all good stuff.

Certainly too low a pressure will make pinch flats more likely, but depending on your weight and the width of tire, 95-105 psi should be plenty to prevent them. The reason high pressure results in more cuts and punctures is because at max rated pressure, the casing of the tire is under maximum stress, and the hard tire concentrates the pressure of sharp rocks because it isn't able to conform as well. That's my theory anyway.

Max pressure may be better on a smooth track or steel drum, but a tire at 90-100 psi will roll faster on most real-world road surfaces. Believe this is because the tire stays in contact with the road and absorbs the road noise better rather than putting all that energy into vertical motion that your body has to absorb.

It's still hard to convince people though. All I can say is try it yourself. See if you don't roll at least as fast. On big descents, believe you'll find you're faster and descend with more confidence because your tire is gripping the road rather than bouncing over it.

Sorry, don't know about the other tires you mention. I've only used the Conti 3000s for the last 12K miles. Since I've never had a cut through or puncture flat with them, have never looked for anything heavier.

A friend of mine and I have been using Maxxis Xenith Hors' Categorie tires for the past year, with extremely good results. I have had two flats in about 6000 miles, and my friend has not had any riding more than I do. We ride a lot on some pretty bad roads, and pretty much never flat. The price is pretty good, about $35 each at the lbs. They are not the top of the line Maxxis, but they are good tires. Here's the Maxxis link:
http://www.maxxis.com/products/bicyc...tail.asp?id=97

I would recommend Continental Grand Prix 4000

Conti GP 4000's are lightweight (205gms), supple, have lower rolling resistance, vectran protection strip( instead of kevlar), wear really well, tread wear indicators, performance tyre guarrantee (within 3 months of purchase) so if you cut them, just send them back (in Australia - need store receipt for proof of purchase) and pay 29.90 and get a totally new one and their cheap on Ebay as well.

With latex tubes, these have to be nearly the best ride, especially if you can get a new one each time, when you cut the casing on glass.
I've just had a 3 month old tyre (3000km) replaced with a totally new one.

Here are the reviews

http://www.roadcyclinguk.com/news/a...AN=1106&SP=&v=1

http://www.roadcycling.com/news/article1395.shtml

Thank you all.

dhk, I've always felt that with the tires I have the rolling resistance is lower when I put in 120psi, the max for the Bontragers I have. But I'll keep an open mind about the tire pressure question. Like you said, may be I'll experiment. But first I am going to pick up a set of new tires with decent puncture resistance.

The reason you feel like the rolling resistance is lower w/ max pressure is because the tire is moving around more, getting deflected from bumps more so it "feels" like you're going fast. The fact is that you're not. When the tire "hops" over a bump because its pressure is too high, that energy to hop has to come from somewhere, and it comes from the energy you've put into the bike system. Since that bit of energy isn't propelling you forward but instead up, you go slower. These little bits of energy add up quickly, especially since roads are far from smooth. Note that such bumps don't have to be big, they just have to be shaped such that the tire casing can't deflect enough to conform to the shape of the bump. At that point, you essentially have a collision between two rigid bodies, and the conservation of momentum requires that something has to move. That something is the tire, and that movement is the "hop".

Thanks Kleng, I want to get the 4000s as I've had three flats in the past 500 miles on my Specialized Pros. Should I get a Conti tube as well? I have just been using tubes from Performance Bike that cost around $2 each on sale. Does the tube matter as much as the tire?

I'm currently using 700 x 23 Vittoria Rubino Intrepids, and love everything about them. No flats, great handling, and they look awesome.

Jsull

Higher price tubes doesn't necessarily mean there any better, although
they may be lighter. From experience I have used vittoria lightweight tubes (55g) in the past with about 3 punctures in a row with brand new tubes each time. Using the Vittoria latex tubes (65g) I haven't had one. Both of these tubes are around the same price. Obviously the Conti GP4000's have something to do with it as I'm not even seeing any cuts on the tires at all after 3000km.

So once you got the Conti GP4000's I don't think the tube matters that much provided you don't exceed the recommended tire inflation pressures,
or pinch them when you install then. Anything that gets through the tire's vectran belt is going to puncture any type or quality of inner tube anyway.

You just have to be lucky and watch out for the glass.

Regards
Kleng

I did 110 miles on Saturday with new Conti GP4000s. There were no issues (other than me). It is a very good tire. It feels very solid compared to my other tires and feels pretty much bombproof. I think I will only carry one spare tube now and not two. Even at 105 psi it’s solid, not mushy. At the same time the tire is light and rolls very well. But I will say that I am an amateur and have not tried other high-end tires such as Hutchinson and Vittoria so……..

Jsull,

I bet after 110 miles they still looked like new, with excess moulding rubber still on the tread.

Glad you like the Conti's I have tried a lot of the other tires eg. Michelin Prorace II and Vittoria Corsa EVO CX. Haven't tried the DEDA RS Corsa
but have heard and read that they are also up with the best, if not the best.

The Prorace didn't feel very lively and felt heay, might be due to the low thread count in the casing. (this is only my view)

The Vittoria has a great ride, but did'nt wear that well for some reason.

Like you've experienced I think the GP 4000's are the best of all worlds, reasonable compliance for a good ride and reduced rolling resistance, good puncture proctection from the vectran, good durability for a race spec tire.

And the extra Performance Tire Guarrantee (in Australia) for 3 months from the date of purchase is extra piece of mind.

As an experiment you should try latex tubes, I feel there is a difference in the ride but I would like to know the opinions of others.