Shimano Chain Tool

Does anyone now if you must use Shimano's own recommended chain link tool for an Ultegra 10 speed chain? (CT-6600) I already have a generic chain tool and don't mind paying for the right tools to do the job if i need to. If the existing tool is ok there's no point.

Thanks.

I use an elcheapo CT on my 10s ultegra, with no probs. Yours may be different though

I have had a number of chain tools, each one broke/bent or did not work ok. These were all cheap chain tools though. I now have the Shimano TL-CN23 tool, and this one works exceedingly well.

So I guess you should just try your existing chain tool if it's a good quality one. If it breaks, get a Shimano.

Cheers.

The one i have is made by Park Tools (USA). I think it's decent quality.

The Ultegra chains seem to have dimples in the links apart from the connecting link which you're not supposed to touch anyway right? I wondered if the Shimano tool had a different shape on the end of the bit that pushes the pin in?

You're right, the special connecting pins lack the dimple, making them easily distinguishable from the other pins.

As for the Shimano tool I noticed that after pushing out a pin, there is a tiny bit of metal wire on the pushing bit of the chain tool. This seems to come from the chain itself. This leads me to believe that the Shimano chain tool has a pushing bit of a diameter tailored to Shimano chains. I'm speculating that this "reaming" of the chain provides the correct fit of the special connecting pins you need to use to re-attach the chain.

Park tool makes very high quality tools, so I'd try that one first.

I don't know about the right chain tool but I'll pass along this fine suggestion I believe I first read at VeloNews.

Instead of using Shimano pins, buy a Wippermann Connex Connector (9 or 10 speed). It snaps on and off by hand so you don't have to fuss with pins and a special tool. And since it's easy to put on and remove, and doesn't degrade the connector quality, you can feel free to use it to remove your chain for cleaning, if that's the kind of thing you do. It's also great to carry around in your saddle bag to mend a broken chain while out on a ride

Here's a link to buy it at Performance, currently on sale at $6.99.

-adm
http://www.imadm.com/

FOR SALE: Felt F1 Frame & Fork. Check it out »

The 9 and 10 speed chains require a the CN-23 tool, according to the Shimano box. The old Shimano tool for the 7/8 speed chains (CN-22?) doesn't allow the chain to seat properly.

I just got a Park CT-1 for my 9 sp chain which works great. It's worth spending $15 to get a good chain tool, IMO.

Tried to "get by" with my old one, but after the tool slipped off under pressure and broke the first connecting pin, decided to go by the correct chain tool before ruining the second pin or the chain.

Thanks everyone.

I'll definately take a look at the Wippermann as an option too. A broken chain when you're out just isn't funny.

One important thing about using the Wipperman link that someone pointed out to me over the weekend: you may still need a chain tool to remove a pin and/or broken link.

I suppose if you're doing a repair on the road the type of chain tool won't matter too much since you're only removing a pin and not trying to press a replacement pin through.

So, while you might still need a chain tool, a simple one (the kind you'd have with you in your saddle bag on a ride) should be sufficient when using a replacement link like the Wipperman.

-adm
http://www.imadm.com/

FOR SALE: Felt F1 Frame & Fork. Check it out »

You will always need a chain tool to "cut" your new chains to the correct size.

Good point; the right chain tool will always be needed to shorten a new chain. I had been using SRAM chains because I liked the master link idea, but decided to switch back to Ultegra after an early failure with the last SRAM PC-991.

Installing the Shimano pin was easy with the Park CT-1 tool. Believe I like the Ultegra chain better than SRAM now. Unlike the PC-991, it was smooth and quiet from the very first pedal stroke, and seems to shift just a bit crisper.

The master link isn't a big deal for me since I never remove the chain for cleaning.