Chain Link Removal Tool

I've never done this before. I purchased the chain link tool and tried it on an old chain today. They also sold me a fresh link which comes in 2 tiny parts.
Anyway, I used the tool and found I could push the pin almost all the way out of any particular link and then the chain would come undone.
However, I didn't see a way to remove this connecting pin right out of the to the point it would come right out and drop in my hand.
What I did find was it was possible to simply reconnect the chain again. I simply joined the chain back together where I had broken the link, squeezed with pliars and found the pin (3 quarters of the way out) went 90 per cent back into its former position, thus joining the chain.
However, I had to tap the pin end with a hammer to get it all the way back in. It seemed good as new.
Anyway is this wrong? I think the shop intended for me to use this link they sold me but I'm not sure how it's done. Possibly the way I did it is O.K. regardless? I just tapped the former link back in and that was that.

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"Everybody has a philosophy. However, what philosophy you have is a matter of choice, and most people don't make a conscious choice with regard to what philosophy they accept."

NO! You can't reuse the pin that way. The ends are peened to retain the pin and you've removed the peening. The pin will work its way out and you'd better hope that a broken chain is the only damage.

The chain tool should be able to push the pin all the way out (does it have an adjustable anvil - the part that the back link rests on?). If it won't then you can use the pliers to work it the rest of the way out.

I suspect the LBS gave you a quick-link. It replaces one outer link: two pins, two link pieces. With it you don't need the chain tool to break the chain (and don't need the tool to install the quick link). It's fairly intuitive but ask questions if you need to.

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Don't let your meat loaf.

Actually the Park tools chain tool isn't supposed to push a pin out all the way on a hyperglide chain. On Shimano chains, the pin you push is the black pin, or the pin that looks different. To relink, you would use the new hyperglide pin (wich is longer) by rejoing to chain as you've done, putting the new hyperglide pin in and using the chain tool to push the old one out. Then with a pair of pliers, you would snap the end off the newly inserted hyperglide pin. Two push the pin all the way out on chains such as single speeds or such, you would put the chain in the nearest position allowing you to push the pin all the way out. Of course this all assumes you are using a Park chain tool...
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=25

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'06 Cannondale R700

I tried pliars and there was no way I could get the pin out. That was the problem I had. The tool will only push it 95 per cent out.

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"Everybody has a philosophy. However, what philosophy you have is a matter of choice, and most people don't make a conscious choice with regard to what philosophy they accept."

Maybe I'll have to modify my tool to create more space for screwing inwards. No way will it push the pin right out. Moreover, I'll have to use the chain that's already on my bike due to wear and tear. So maybe I find a way to remove the former pin and then insert a new one.
In the shop they gave me 2 links and that was it.

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"Everybody has a philosophy. However, what philosophy you have is a matter of choice, and most people don't make a conscious choice with regard to what philosophy they accept."

So why not reply to my post?

The reason I asked about the adjustable anvil is that you can move it toward the ram and gain more travel, which should let you push the pin through.

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Don't let your meat loaf.

I am a bit of a bunny as far as maintenance goes...I can do very simple stuff very easily but anything too complicated gets me frustrated and annoyed and I give up and take it to the LBS.
IMHO (in my humble opinion) breaking a chain with the correct tool is one of the easiest jobs, I always get nervous about re-joining it correctly but I have never stuffed it up.
Carrera, I am not sure what tool they sold you, but the pin should pop thru into the open receptacle with no trouble at all. Imperative you get the chainlink to straddle the "saddle" and the pin will line up correctly with the extraction plunger, and with enough turning, the pin will eject thru into the other side...

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"...too old to be riding a bike..." my former workmates used to say. Screw them. I don't judge people for their lack of interest in exercise. So don't judge me.

I'm probably stating the obvious here, but you are aware that a different chain breaker comes for the 6,7,9 speed chains, to get best results use a 9-spd breaker for a 9-spd chain. Just guessing here but the old chain you are practising on could be a wider chain than the tool is designed for and then it defiantly won't push out the link.

Hey Carrera, the el cheapo chain tool I use which came with an el cheapo tool kit I bought had the receptical hole only deep enough to allow the pin to be pushed partially out. I believe that some chain manufacturers, including sram?, allow any pin to be reused to rejoin the chain, hence the reason the chain tool doesn't allow the pin to be pushed all the way out.
I drilled the hole deeper to allow my shimano chain pin to be pushed all the way out & always use a new connecting pin. I have used this tool on 8 & 10 speed with no probs to date.

There's no way it adjusts. I also had some trouble getting the pin lined up as the tool has this weird, overly delicate brace thing or holder.
Last night I had a go and the only way I can get the pin right out is by pushing it as far out as it will go. Then, with pliars and brute force, I tried to open up the link and remove the inner ring leaving it empty and the pin still sticking out a bit. Finally, I re-inserted the empty link and was able to push the pin right out. Therefore, it would be a matter of pushing the ring back inside and then inserting a new pin if these are sold separately.
I haven't figured out how those links they sold me fit in. Maybe it would be easier if I could just take the old pin out, rejoin it and push a new pin in. As I said, I originally re-inserted the original pin using pliars and a hammer and that seemed to be a solid joint to me.

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"Everybody has a philosophy. However, what philosophy you have is a matter of choice, and most people don't make a conscious choice with regard to what philosophy they accept."

My chain obviously isn't Shimano but neither is the tool. If they sell the pins separately it shouldn't be a problem. The easy part is getting the pin 95 per cent out. The hard part is then pulling the link apart. Once that's done I can get the pin right out with the tool. All I would need to do after that is insert a new pin and it should be O.K.
I found that Park Tools website a bit too complicated. Really all I need to do is find out if I have the right tool for the right chain rather than spend hours reading up on all the variants, codes and numbers on the Park Tools site.
Actually I may have damamged my tool as the holder gizmo has bent a bit and it's now tricky to line the pin up centrally.

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"Everybody has a philosophy. However, what philosophy you have is a matter of choice, and most people don't make a conscious choice with regard to what philosophy they accept."

What do the links that they gave you look like?

And instead of dancing around the subject, why not break down and tell us what chain and what tool you're talking about?

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Don't let your meat loaf.

Shimano sells pins separately, but they work only on Shimano chains. The replacement pins are slightly larger in diameter than the original pin to compensate for the fact that the holes are stretched out when the original pin is removed. The replacement pins have a smaller diameter guide portion that is pushed through the chain, then broken off once the pin is in place. It is important that the next time you break the chain, you do not remove a replacement pin. Rather, you need to use a different site on the chain to push out a pin.
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=5134
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=5134
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=5134


SRAM does not sell pins separately. Instead, they have a Power Link that replaces a link on the chain (i.e., you remove two pins and the corresponding outer plates and replace with the Power Link). For the 8, and 9 speed chains, the Power Link can be reused indefinitely. For the 10 speed chains, it is recommended that the power link not be reused. Once it has been closed, it should not be opened again. Although neither company recommends it, the SRAM 8 speed Power Link will work on the Shimano 8 speed chain, and the SRAM 9 speed Power Link will work on the Shimano 9 speed chain. Shimano replacement pins, though, willl not work in SRAM chains.
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=5134
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=5134

Wipperman has a Connex connector that works like the SRAM Power Link.
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=5134
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=5134

I have never seen a chain breaking tool that does not push the pin all the way out, although obviously, I have not seen all of the available chain breaking tools. The one I use is from Pedros. On my tool, the point that pushes the pin is replacable. it is not cheap, but it will last forever.
http://www.pedros.com/frame.aspx?url...cast.html?shop

+1 ...........the suspense is killing me & with over 4000 posts from the OP surely they must have some chain knowledge