change triple crankset --> compact double - Page 2

i know how to shift...

What kind of compact cranks do you recommend? Not too expensive

I'd try to match the quality level of the rest of the components on your bike.

I've had an FSA Energy crankset for a couple of years. I paid around $150.00 for it. I bought the octalink version and used my existing (double) bottom bracket and front derailleur so the crankset is the only thing that I had to buy.

I like it fine. In fact, I think that it's the best equipment change I've ever made on my bike.

You didn't ask but I think that how well you like a compact crankset depends on what gears you normally use on a flat road with no wind. My compact puts me in the big ring and right in the middle of my cassette. That gives me several "adjustment" gears in both directions without shifting chainrings. I generally reserve the small ring just for hills. If you find yourself right at the "cusp" of changing chainrings a lot you're going to hate the compact because of to the multiple shifts that are required to find the next gear in sequence.

[QUOTE=dannyyy]i know how to shift...



You may know how to shift but, I don't think you know how to use your gears properly.

Cross chaining from hell only exists when you are on the big ring / big cog or little ring / little cog. This gear combo should not be used. Whether you have a triple or double crank.

Its not JUST is the big ring/big cog, etc. There are plenty of other gears ratios that make that little grinding noise.

I understand where youre coming from, but I just find it a hassle to shift several cogs every timei i want to shift just one ring

Very odd. I have a triple (52 front and 12-25 rear)and couldn't hear grinding noises even on big-big (if I deliberately do that) except for FD rubs, and that's easy corrected with one or two trim clicks with the shifter.

Maybe you need to re-examine your running gear's alignment, adjustments and lub.

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Morphed Bianchi Camaleonte IV 2006, Ridley Damocles 2006, Garmin, Mac

Did you recently get a new chain OR has this "grinding noise" problem always existed?

Regardless, as I noted, get a 42t chainring for your middle chainring, and only use the granny and large/outer ring when you need the extra high OR low gears PARTICULARLY since you don't like to shift.

Dear duhhh,

I don't recommend a compact double at all. Those are for poor *s that can't afford a triple.

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Don't let your meat loaf.

It does seem a lot of hassle just to avoid some grinding. I just double shift (down a front ring and up a little ring).

As per Aleng's suggestion, I'm using a 42 middle ring (with 11-21) and find that a good proportion of the riding can be accomindated between 42-12 and 42-21.

If you do change your change ring, is likely that your bottom bracket will be a little too wide, in the case of my bike the triple bottom bracket is 3mm wider than the double bottome bracket.

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Training Log

It's interesting that the 42 middle ring works so well as the general chainring for users of triple. If that's the case, then the 39 in a regular double would actually give a slightly lower bottom end ie. Quite functional for most. So the final decision is whether one encounters tough hills to require that 30 small ring. For me, I think I would prefer safe than sorry for the geography we have here. I am now see how a regular double with a slightly wider cassette would work for those stronger riders or those who just don't encounter significant hills.

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Morphed Bianchi Camaleonte IV 2006, Ridley Damocles 2006, Garmin, Mac

Any triple can be ridden with less crosschaining than any double


It needn’t happen like that..

I have been riding / racing on a triple (tiagra) for the past 18 months. I am about to change to a double with consideration but its a decision that takes some care.

A triple has both good and bad points.

Good
I run a 52/42/30 with a 11-21 9 speed which is a generally excellent set-up. The 42 allows speeds of 25 - 50 km/hr at good cadence meaning you hardly ever have to change from it (i do get some chain rub at either the top/low or both ends though).
Having a triple allows a nearly straight block at the back which is great for smooth riding at consistent cadence - no searching for gears.
In the low ring you can go very slow with good pedalling - great for social rides with a climb and/or races with steep or long climbs.

Bad
Seems hard to set-up
Changing up to chain rings at top of hill is a bit slow
Need to change to triple ring before bottom of hill rather than half-way up - always a chain dropping chance if you are not careful with small ring.

All in all i recommend a triple as a good investment to any non-racer and i think even racers can use it (i have quite well).

I'm new to a triple and have had huge problems changing to my inside chainring when there's any torque on the crank. I take it this is normal behavior, based on what you say here?