Different spoke count front-rear, still OK with hub brakes? - Page 2

See here:
Basically, convert the hole mismatch into a fractional value and enter it in the spreadsheet.

I wouldn't mind one of those myself, but then again I like butted spokes. Can't remember if I've ever seen butted spoke blanks sold anywhere...

Thanks ...

Very interesting!?!

I wonder when Damon Rinard laced that particular wheel ... and, why!?!

... Because I'd need to be EXTREMELY motivated to want to mate a commonly available 36h hub [it's not an expensive-by-comparison Hugi or Chris King hub, and Rinard isn't stranded in a Third World country without access to components] to a 24h rim rather than to choose-and-use an equally common 32h hub for the particular rim & wheel build ... and, thereby have an effortless construction.

But, as an exercise (x2/x0) with the disparate components he chose, I guess/HOPE(!) it was worth Damon Rinard's effort.

It's too bad Rinard didn't indicate the actual spoke lengths that one would NORMALLY use & the ones that his calculation ultimately suggested rather than leave it to the reader to recreate his calculations (from scratch).

AND, subsequently, it would be nice to see the outer edge of the rim where the nipple is seated to see how-much-or-how-little spoke protrudes from the end of the nipple's head ... AND, it would be nice to know whether the spokes he used had a now-typical 1cm of threads, or more ... plus, whether Rinard used long (now used for aero rims) nipples.

Of course, although Rinard says that he's laced a few rear wheels with the particular lacing, he doesn't say how soft/stiff the wheel is compared with a more traditional lacing (i.e., how the wheel actually performs & the weight of the rider using the wheel).

Calculations can be an expedient to illustrate what might be; but, their revelation is incomplete when compared with empirical observation ...

Having said all of that, I do have my suspicion as when/why Rinard did what he did, but the conjectured why (vs. the actual) would depend on the when ...

I got my spoke threader USED, otherwise I'm sure I could not have justified the acquisition ... it's an unnecessary luxury ... but, very convenient ... unfortunately, it does encourage unconventional adventures.

BTW. Double-butted "blanks" are probably not practical because of the variability in length of the alternate gauged middle section of different length spokes ...

Regardless, it really is easier to start with a spoke that is within a centimeter of the desired length because if there are NO existing threads, then (at least with my old, CYCLO threader) you would need to nip the tip of the spoke (an easy enough, added step which would nonetheless become tedious after a while) to assist the rollers begin the threading.

I guess it all depends on the amount of effort a certain undertaking actually will cost you, and the amount of enjoyment it will give you.
I've certainly done equally questionably things mainly because I could, I wanted to and I had the time.
If you want details, ask me about when I swapped out a single-piece crank for a conventional 3-piece...
I agree, it would have been interesting to know how much difference there actually is. I know from experience that 3 mm mismatch can be survivable, so maybe this isn't such a big deal?
As long as the nipple either doesn't bottom out or the spokes protrudes enough to risk puncturing(on a double-walled rim) I could certainly live with a little overshoot.
Maybe that would be an easy way around this, use one spoke length and two kinds of nipples?
Unless he felt compelled to cut back on the spoke tension to avoid overstressing the less-than-ideally loaded flanges the differences between a 24-24 and a 24-36 would surely be minimal? (assuming same spoke patterns, spokes, flange width etc...)
You should see what having vacuum-bagging and laminating gear does to you then, not to mention the lathe and a welder ...
There's been a thread here about how different butted spokes have different lengths from where the threads stops and the thinned-out section begins, which might indicate that the butting is done in fewer and bigger steps than the actual threading and cutting. Might not help you if you alternate between road wheels and MTB wheels, but might certainly be enough to handle left/right and front/rear issues within the same type.