Triple vs Double?

Hi there, I am looking to buy a new roadbike for myself because I am currently riding one that is older than me. I don't have much money to spend on it so I am looking at the Trek 1000 Triple and The Lemond Etape mostly. I have noticed that some bikes come with a choice of a double or triple...What are some advantages for one or the other? What are the disadvantages? In other words why would I want this or not want this? Thank you-David

My advice has always been: "If you have to ask, get the triple."

The triple crankset will give you an easier hill climb gear and usually requires less front shifting. It's a bit more particular about having the front derailleur adjusted properly.

The double crankset gives you more style points.

You will rarely see a serious rider/racer, on an ultra-light, expensive racing bicycle, with a triple crankset. Simply because they don't need it. They can probably climb any hill, in a front chainring that would be the middle chainring on a triple, but is the small chainring on a double. So the triple crankset would just add unwanted weight to their bikes.

A triple crankset has the advantage of having an additional very small chainring in the front, which will add a few tiny granny/bail-out gears for average riders, or people riding loaded bikes, or long distance riders, or anyone who simply wants the widest range of gears.

A triple is more useful but chain line is not great unless you are in the middle ring. A double shifts better, chain line is good in either ring and it's lighter. IMHO a compact double is more useful than the standard double.

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Romans 5:10 For if, when we were enemies, we were reconciled to God by the death of his Son, much more, being reconciled, we shall be saved by his life. http://www.earnharts.com/html/realau...cific.asp?id=3

Shouldn't you really ask yourself three questions over this issue?

1) What's the terrain you'll be riding in?
2) What's your cycling ability and likely improvement over time?
3) Are you comfortable with changing a cassette?

Triple would be very handy if you live in high mountains but useless if you are on a flat land with no significant hills within 300km radius.

If you are old and weak, then the chance of major improvements would be low, so triple might be the smart thing to do. If you are young and will be planning to put in the hours, then double could be for you.

If you can change a cassette, then use a regular double and change for a low ratio cassette 13-26 or 13-29 etc on those days that you'll be tackling a mountain. There would be no mountain magic with a triple if you have paired it with a 11-21 cassette.

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Morphed Bianchi Camaleonte IV 2006, Ridley Damocles 2006, Garmin, Mac

get a compact crank.

on a tripple 30 teeth is too small on the small chain ring. and the 42 teeth in the middle is too big.

1. What is too small of a gear, charinring, or cog is not some universal truth. It's entirely dependent on the rider.
2. Modern triples shift as well as anything else and have no inherent problems or handicaps.
3. Chainline really isn't an issue, especially since triples require different sized BBs than doubles.

If you're in doubt and can't score a test ride, get a triple. It won't hurt you. You can always sell it later and get a double if you like. If nothing else, it'll allow you to see what gear range you really need.

About my sentiments as well. When I got back on the road a few years back, I got a triple. It was a Campy Chorus group, and I never had trouble with shifting.

Keep in mind, while you lower the effort, you're thrashing away for a lot longer on a climb as you're going a lot slower. So it helps, but not that much.

I just took the triple off. I wasn't using the small chainring much, was getting tired of wisecracks from poseurs, and got a very good deal on a used Record carbon double crankset on ebay. Bling, I'll admit, but it is gorgeous.

Question for you...
When you switched to the double crank did you change the whole setup? If not, how are you making sure that you're triple shifter isnt trying to shift the chain onto your frame. If it was that easy for me i would have switched to a double a long time ago...

You can set the derailler to stop at a certain point by adjusting a screw. I had a triple on my bike that i set the derailler to not go to. I used a downtube shifter that just wouldn't move far enough once i set the stop screw on the front derailler. I set it up so i wouldn't ever shift too far when i was learning the bike. Otherwise i would sometimes shift while not looking and go past the middle ring.

Now i have all the hand positions memorized and i understand why a triple is good even for someone who enjoys hills like me. A triple is not just a bail out.

Nothing to making the change. You will need a crank extraction tool.

Pop the old crank off. Install the new one. Set the derailleur low limit screw to prevent the chain from dropping off on the low end.

Now, that's the cheap way, without replacing the bottom bracket. You will get a less than optimal chain angle in the extreme gears, as the triple axle is a bit too long. But, with care, it's perfectly rideable.

I do plan on replacing the bottom bracket with a 102mm axle before riding season begins.

Going triple to double is simple. Going double to triple is where it gets expensive - new axle, new shifter, new chain, probably new rear der. cage to take up the extra slack.

Modern triples shift fine. Practically every mountain bike on the market uses a triple. I'd recommend getting a triple just because the small chainring will be there for you if you need it, and there's really no negative to having it if you don't need it. The weight and chain line issues are totally negligible.

If you have to emulate the pro riders (as many do), then go ahead and sacrifice the gearing range that a triple offers, shoe-horn yourself into the same lycra shorts and jersey that your favorite pro team wears (butter helps), run sew-ups, carry no tools on your bike (call your spouse using your cell phone if you flat), and when you're passed by a commuter just feign an injury or tell them you're on a recovery ride. And don't worry, you'll fit right in with about 90% of the "serious" cyclists on the road.

Good luck!

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Rebellion with no point or purpose is worse than conformity.

Uh-huh.

I ride tubies and don't have to call when I get a flat. I guess either I'm doing something wrong, or you haven't moved up to the modern times and learned about stuff like PitStop.

I've heard of PitStop. It's just that carrying a $12 can of compressed air and foam polymer so that I can fix one flat tire doesn't really appeal to me. Riding tubulars during anything other than a race is about as practical as buying a Porsche Boxter to take the kids soccer practice and make grocery runs. And even in a race it's arguable that modern clinchers are just as smooth.

Anyway my point was that there are plenty of poseurs out there (even those riding clinchers) that have to call for a ride home when they flat because they don't carry any tools. A seat wedge and pump would spoil the look of their race bike! Lance doesn't carry one so neither will they! Never mind that Lance is being followed by a team car carrying a professional mechanic, every concievable tool, spare wheels, spare bikes...

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Rebellion with no point or purpose is worse than conformity.

Ah, the old "poseur" question, wherein one person labels others "poseurs" by dint of what they ride or what they use, all because that judge superior doesn't approve of what they ride or what they use.

And it's some wonder, ain't it, that other some parts of the population think roadies are assholes. Hmmm. I wonder where they get that from?

We should all bow to what the judges superior think we should all ride. After all, they know best. They must....I mean, they say they do.

So, everyone, let's raise a pint and celebrate those smug buttwipes that really do know what everyone else should be riding, that really do know what everyone else is thinking, and really do know what everyone's motivation is.

Here's to you, ****wads!