Giant TCR composite 06 frame size S - Page 2

Probably about $575 US-. for frame, fork and headset

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And also, what replacement frame would you suggest in the range $1500-2000 (£800-1200). Am a small woman (5'2, inseam 71.5cm) so it must come in a small size.[/QUOTE]

Cervelo RS

She wants to have more drop from seat to bars, so the Cervelo RS is definitely not what she needs, given its noted feature is its extra long head tube.

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Oooh, cevelo is nice but perhaps not that particular frame?Also, haven't (unfortunately) seen any women's frames from them...
I'll try to get some pics riding the bike with the new bars and stem., then you can all laugh at my ridiculous riding position!

Have now done some research on crank lengths and really can't seem to get any consensus on how to measure this. My LBS reckons shorter ones may be a good idea but that the only way to really know is by trying. According to the debated inseam x 0.21 formula my crank length would land around 160mm, have never ridden cranks that short and moreover, I haven't been able to find any factory cranks that short. My current (and previous) 170s have never bothered me. Any more views on this?

Unfortunately, there is no consensus on sizing crankarms, and there is not likely to ever be one. It's not just a geometry problem: it's a biomechanics issue, one specific to the biomechanics of a given bipedal humanoid. Luckily, it seems that people can work with a range of crank lengths. I wouldn't worry about the crank arm length unless your cadence/pedal stroke don't feel right. Maybe if you get the chance, try a shorter set of crankarms to see what you think, but I wouldn't make it a pressing issue. More often than not, in cycling, what Confucius said holds true: If it feels good, do it.

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You seem keen to buy a new frame (nothing wrong with that, BTW) ...

IMO, if you want a lifetime frame [presuming you don't crash or abuse the bike] in a smaller size, then two frames to consider are a COLNAGO Master X-Lite (steel) or a LITESPEED (Titanium ... if I were buying a Titanium frame, I would probably opt for a HABANERO because they cost much less while having a fairly good reputation) ... both have frames which are available with shorter top tubes, and the only reason you would possibly regret buying either is if you were to stop riding.

If you want a Carbon Fibre frame, then Colnago's non-Italian made CF frame may actually fit your budget (I'm pretty sure it is actually much less expensive than the Master X-Lite frame, and my recollection is that a ready-to-ride bike was in the $2200US range a couple of years ago) & it should be available in the same sizes as their other frames ... the Italian made Colnago CF frame will be at least 2x what you want to spend.

There are other frame builders who undoubtedly have frames whose top tube is close to ~50cm.

IMO, the frame size is more arbitrary than some people would like to think AND the "right size" for a rider has not been constant from era-to-era. Also, how a bike fits may depend on who is doing the fitting -- so, Grant Petersen of RIVENDELL BICYCLES would probably fit you differently than the fitter at your LBS ...

A bazillion years ago, I was sold a 24" GITANE whose top tube was 57cm (the bike had a 90mm stem) -- back then, almost all frames had the same length top tube & the reach was adjusted by installing a different length stem, so a 52cm frame would probably have had a 50mm stem. Both my current regular + "over-priced" frames have ~54cm top tubes + 120mm stems ...



My current choice is for a smaller-than-once-before frame for aesthetic reasons. I still have two (different) frames whose top tubes are 57cm, one with a 56cm top tube, one with a 55cm top tube, etc. & the reach on all have been adjusted to mimic one another by installing different length stems and/or adjusting the location of the brake levers -- larger frame, shorter stem ... smaller frame, longer stem.

Remarkably, despite the years, the starting point (not accounting for the shape of the handlebars or position of the levers) is the same as way-back-when (maybe, it's just the reach I got used to!?!) ... so, as over-sized as that Gitane may be in today's context, it was actually/(accidentally!) the right size despite the indifference of that LBS (maybe the shop owner thought I was going to grow-into-it!?!).

If you can make your GIANT "fit" then you really have to consider changing frames to be a cosmetic issue (nothing wrong with that, either).


FWIW. A similar suggestion could be made with regard to crank arm length -- that is, using a formula is actually an arbitrary method for deteriming the best crank arm length for any particular rider & one probably has to question how ANY of the formulas were determined. While the formulas are interesting, they are too dogmatic because a person's leg is comprised of levers of varying proportions which engage another lever; and, the maximum efficiency for one set of levers may-or-may-not be different for another. So, while a taller rider (than you are) might be using a 165mm crank arm on his/her TRACK bike, the reason is because the pedal MUST clear the banking ... and, if the mathematician who came up with any of the formulas used that paradigm in association with a particular (group of) rider(s) OR any other where the presumption is the higher ultimate speed must mean greater efficiency, then the reasoning is (IMO) flawed ...

Similarly, if a riding style (e.g., "KOPS") is the status quo, then it is probably a miracle that anyone can pedal a recumbent with any efficiency (to use an extreme illustration).

THAT's a really long way of saying that you should probably try to make the current frame fit comfortably, first ... then, consider riding it for a season to ensure it is the right fit for you AND the way you ride ... then, decide if you want a smaller frame (for whatever reason). Having a second frame/bike is not uncommon, particularly if you want to ride through the Winter months or during inclement weather.

BTW. Back to the ORIGINAL question regarding the USED value of your GIANT frame -- if you & the RIGHT buyer cross paths, you might be able to expect to get between £530-to-£600 for the frame/fork/headset PRESUMING that the frame/fork/headset would cost ~£1000 (retail) from you LBS if they could order one for you sans components if the original retail cost for the bike would have been about £2000+ ... but, then again, £530 may be too optimistic OR impossible if you don't find another cycling enthusiast who is looking for a "small" frame. If the bike's retail was less, then (as a rule of thumb) figure on about 1/4th the retail price for the complete bike (i.e., allow half the cost to have been the frame & half the cost the components/wheels).

Cheers again for a comprehensive and interesting answer! Have just got the bike back from my LBS with a shorter (70mm) stem and compact handlebars and actually, it fits quite well. Those changes have managed to shave off almost 4cm in reach. My position is significantly more compact and there's no more excessive stretching to sit on the hoods. I'm thus planning on keeping it this season and riding it for what it's worth.

However, the reason for wanting to get a new frame next season is that I'd like one that fits really well. My ideal riding position is v agressive with a big seat to bar drop and my current frame has a much to tall a head tube to allow this however I tweak the stem. Also, in an ideal world, I'd like to get a bit more compact than I am at the mo.
Crank lengths seem like a nightmare to determine, but seeing as I'm more of a high cadence rider, I'd like to at least try shorter cranks to see if I like it better. However, I've never been that bothered by 170s I currently have and have had in the past.

The frame alone cost new around $2500. I'd hope I'd be able to get 700-800 bucks for the frameset, so best start saving up for the rest!

I read on a bicycling magazine that for checking if the lenght of your frame or frame plus stem plus handlebars was close to good for your size was: when riding on the saddle and with you hands on the hoods the handlebar would be blocking the vision of the front wheel axle. I checked that and it is true for my two road bikes and I feel comfortable on both eventhough they have slightly different geometries. I'm 5'10" and ride 54cm - 56 frames, one with a 172.5mm crank arm and the other with a 175mm, I think I can't tell the difference between those two. My MB has a 175mm one.
Good you save a lot of money with those changes.