Upgrading Trek 1000

I'm starting to get more serious about this. I have a Trek 1000 that I'll be upgrading piece by piece on a modest budget. From reading what you guys say, my main issues are wheels, saddle, and then explore better componentry. I have some wheels eyed up and have done my research there.

Questions are...What is they big deal about the seat outside of comfort then weight? And, from my list above...what am I missing as fas as what can make a big impact on quality?

Thanks-

J

There is no big deal about the seat other than what you mentioned, and the weight is not terribly important. If you like and are comfortable on your current saddle, then leave it alone.

You could explore different handlebars, but again, if you are happy with the ones you have, why change them. You could also look into pedals, but only if you have issues with the ones you have now. The wheels you mentioned really are the first thing to think about when upgrading stuff. And, yes, components can make a difference, if not in performance, but in how the bike feels.

Changing the moving parts will have the greatest impact ...

The common recommendation is to change the tires & tubes, first.

New wheels might be nice, but simply servicing the wheels you have (i.e., ensuring the bearings are properly "lubed" AND the spokes are "evenly" tensioned & the rims are true) is always beneficial & may be almost as good as a new set of wheels unless you are ponying up a lot for a really nice set of wheels.

After that, changing to some Campagnolo Veloce shifters will have be a noticeable change ... to change to OTHER brands of shifters would probably require new derailleurs, too, AND end up costing a lot more.

BTW. Saddle comfort is paramount ... for some people, it is also a fashion statement ...

I just lent one of my San Marco Concor Lite saddles to someone so he can see if it will work for him BECAUSE he had been riding on a Selle Italia Flite saddle for the past half-dozen years and he finally admitted that it wasn't (hasn't been) comfortable for him; but, he thought it looked right on his bike because someone else we know who used to be a CAT-something-or-other racer uses a Selle Italia Flite saddle. My friend may not find the Concor Lite saddle to be comfortable, either.

If he weren't a weight weenie, I would have lent him a leather saddle.

If your saddle/(handlebars/whatever) is/(are) comfortable, then (as Dietmar suggested) there is no need to change it unless you really think the other grass-is-greener ... or, at least, might be ... sometimes seemingly small changes make a big difference, so it's often worth experimenting with components when you have the money-and-time.

Thanks to both of you. I like most of what came with the bike (2006?) but just planned a few major changes to meet my growing interest and involvement.

Stock Trek 1000 comes with standard pedals with cages. If you haven't already replaced these with "clipless" pedals (e.g., Look KeO or Shimano SPD) and bought some cycling shoes, I think you'll find that doing so will get you more of a performance boost than anything else you do to the bike. If buying shoes, be sure the hole pattern on the sole bottom matches the type of cleat (two or three screw) that comes with the pedals.

As for the saddle, if it's comfortable, leave it alone. Presume you've acquired some cycling shorts or bibs with chamois or gel padding. If not, that'd be the first thing on my agenda.

Not trying to offend with above basic info; not sure where you're coming from when you say you're "starting to get serious."

If you're intent on new wheels, be aware that hand-built wheels offer "more for less" than most "manufactured" wheels. Having said that, you might take a look at Williams wheels (williamscycling.com) for high quality, good value and excellent customer service. Your old wheelset (probably Alex AT450's with nondescript hubs), if in good shape, will probably get you about $75-100US if sold on eBay. Would help to offset a bit of the cost of better wheels.

Trek 1000 used to come with Sora componentry and 8-speed rear. Upgrade to 9- or 10-speed Shimano (or 10- or 11-speed Campy) would not be cost effective. Stick with 8-speed and just move your existing cassette from old wheelset to new one. (Disregard this paragraph if you've already got a 9- or 10-speed rear.)