| Cycling Equipment Need some advice on cycling equipment? Do you have a buckled wheel? Problems with your gears? Need help truing a wheel? |
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#1
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Hi, I've just recently bought my friends bike: BH L25 C Liberty Seguros 2006 Limited Edition ![]() I gave around 700$ inclusive shipping and 6 new tubes, and 2 Rubino Pro tyres, gloves and a little bag I can mount underneath the seat. So far I've ordered following: [www.chainreactioncycles.com] Shoes [www.chainreactioncycles.com] Shorts [www.chainreactioncycles.com] Shirt [www.chainreactioncycles.com] Shades I need a new helmet, but I can't decide whatever to buy for instance: Giro advantage TT 06 - Giro Advantage Time Trial Helmet 2006 | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com Or: MET Cosmo S MET Cosmo S Helmet | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com AND! I've mounted the tyres, but I can't get the gears functioning properly, and need some advice how to check wether they're right or not, currently my right stick for switching gear lowers the chain, and the right doesn't really respond, any ideas? :-) |
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#2
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#3
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If you're going to ride in some Time Trials or Triathlons, the TT helmet will be a good addition to your kit ... regardless, you'll want the 'regular' road helmet, too. I can't recommend one over another. BTW. Nice bike ... As far as your shifter, if it isn't responding, the cable is probably NOT attached properly OR possibly (but, not necessarily) either binding someplace OR is too slack ... Loosen the rear derailleur cable's anchoring bolt ... Slowly spin the crank once so the chain drops onto the smallest cog ... Push the RIGHT thumb lever several times until it no longer 'clicks' ... Re-attach the rear derailleur cable ... Test. |
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#6
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And it has driven less than 800 KM and only been standing inside, very sweet :-) Though you cannot see it, theres a little bump on the other side of the top bar, though it isnt very noticable, and gave me a further reduction in the already silly price |
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#7
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That sounds like your rear wheel needs to be trued. Given your lack of experience, you should probably take the wheel, or better yet the whole bike, to a local bike store, and have them go over it for you, and true the wheel plus make any other minor adjustments as necessary. That shouldn't cost too much, and it seems you got a good deal on the bike, so you'll still come out ahead. |
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#8
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Although they are heavier, Shimano's quick release skewers are amongst the better ones you can use to ensure that the wheel doesn't slip while in the dropout ... Campagnolo skewers are also good, too ... As well as many of the vintage skewers BECAUSE they are made of-or-with steel, and the steel can 'bite' into the dropout whereas skewers made with alloy can slip if not properly tightened ... and, alloy skewers just don't work with steel frames, in particular. |
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#9
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#10
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#11
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#12
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It's stamped on the cogs and chainrings. Or, you can just count the teeth. But if it's standard, then it'll be fine, for now anyway. |
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#13
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#14
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Many beginners make the mistake of thinking they should be "pushing really hard", but that is not how you will get good performance out of your "body engine". If you want to sustain lots of power output over significant distances, you need to spin your pedals fast, not crunch high gears slowly at a lot of torque. Rule of thumb is that a healthy cadence is around 90rpm, the exact value, of course, being a matter of personal preference, your build, and terrain. |
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#15
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Yea, I'm not gonna do an Ullrich or Riis:P My build is athletic, 180/70 kilos, and 17 years. I'm in very good condition due football, running, tennis and cycling at least 15km a day on my citybike, so I don't expect it to be a problem getting on the bike really. CANT WAIT, you had it like this when you got your bike too? |
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