| Cycling Equipment Need some advice on cycling equipment? Do you have a buckled wheel? Problems with your gears? Need help truing a wheel? |
| |
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
#1
| |||
| |||
|
#2
| |||
| |||
WD40 is a great rust preventative but is too thin to lubricate a chain. Motor oil is better. Put a drop on each roller and wipe off all the excess. The purpose behind the bike shop teflon is that it is a drier formulation and grit won't stick to it so easily. It won't abrade the chain or stain your pant leg so readily. |
|
#3
| |||
| |||
Quote:
. I personally use 3-in-1 machine oil. It is thin without being too thin and does not collect grit as quickly. After cleaning chain (off the bike), I apply to the "inside" of the chain (relative to the gears) work in, wipe off excess put back on bike, spin through cogs to get a little lube on them as well. If you don't desire to clean your drive train with any regularity, if at all, I would stick with a teflon based lubricant (no pun intended ). Theoretically, you can go longer between cleanings than other lubricants. Either way, the drive train will need to be cleaned at some point or you will wear your cogs prematurely.Hope this helps |
|
#4
| |||
| |||
|
#5
| ||||
| ||||
ProLink. I apply one drop to each roller every 100-150 miles. Turn the cranks, and go up and down the cassette. Then I wipe the excess off Chain washing? Only if I have mud splattered everywhere or have ridden through a lot of blowing sand/dust. Otherwise, ProLink keeps the chain clean enough.
__________________ Sex is horrid Pain is Fun I cut my fingers off One by one |
|
#6
| ||||
| ||||
Quote:
__________________ One life, one chance. Don't waste it! |
|
#7
| |||
| |||
I just switched to Chain-L No. 5, and I'm pretty happy with it. A bit more work putting it on the chain, but it does seem to last a long time , and makes for a nice quiet drivetrain. Once you thoroughly wipe off the chain after applying it, it's not any more messy than other lubricants, and maybe less so. You might want to give this stuff a try. They're sending out samples for 4 bucks including shipping... |
|
#8
| |||
| |||
WD-40 is a solvent, not a lubricant. Find some ProLink, as has been mentioned. Apply ala directions, little goes a long way. |
|
#9
| |||
| |||
Quote:
|
|
#10
| |||
| |||
Quote:
I am, of course, not affiliated in any way to the company. |
|
#11
| |||
| |||
Applied the way Alienator recommended, a bottle of Prolink lasted for almost 10K miles over two years. Sure, $8.99 is a lot to pay for 4 oz of lube, but on a per mile basis it's much less than tires,chains, and cassettes. Even those costs are small compared to my fuel outlay: today on the club ride I spent $4 on rest stop food and drink....Gatorade, crackers and bananas can really add up |
|
#12
| |||
| |||
Pro-Link is good. So is Finish Line. Use bicycle-specific lube. As mentioned, it won't gunk up, or conversely, act as a solvent. |
|
#13
| |||
| |||
The best lube is the one you get around to using regularly, that's far more important than which product you're using. (although I too stay away from WD-40) I've gone from boutique lubes to engine oil and I'm currently using something called white, or paraffin oil, medical grade. The white oil is nicer to handle and chains seems to last about as long as they always have. |
|
#14
| |||
| |||
|
#15
| |||
| |||
I used some ProLink, and my chain was quiet and smooth as silk afterwards. Much better than when I'd applied WD-40. ProLink it is, for now. I also put some on my wheels and gear shifters, hoping to protect them somewhat from rusting and corrosion since it's been raining a lot lately (and I ride in the rain). |
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Tags |
| chain, gear, oil |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:12 AM.
Powered by: vBulletin Copyright © 2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.3.0
Copyright © 2001 - 2009 cyclingforums.com
Powered by: vBulletin Copyright © 2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.3.0
Copyright © 2001 - 2009 cyclingforums.com









. I personally use 3-in-1 machine oil. It is thin without being too thin and does not collect grit as quickly. After cleaning chain (off the bike), I apply to the "inside" of the chain (relative to the gears) work in, wipe off excess put back on bike, spin through cogs to get a little lube on them as well.
). Theoretically, you can go longer between cleanings than other lubricants. Either way, the drive train will need to be cleaned at some point or you will wear your cogs prematurely.





Linear Mode

















