Pedal Removal - Page 3

64Paramount · #31 3 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by alienator

So, Cyberlegend's now workin' for the man....

That's Mr. Cyberlegend to us now....

alienator · #32 3 Weeks Ago

Yup. How quickly power corrupts. In another thread, elsewhere on the forum, he made a poster kneel before him and kiss his web boots.

**cyberlegend1994** · #33 3 Weeks Ago

Hmmm... I wonder what this button does...

Uni-Vibe · #34 3 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by dhk2

Some good suggestions here, but my first tool for a stubborn pedal is a machinists' hammer. It may be a scary thought to some, but have found the impact from a modest tap or two on the wrench is usually all it takes to loosen stuck threads. Hold the wrench and crank arm firmly with your other hand while tapping, or get a helper. Use caution of course. If a few reasonable blows doesn't do it, then would try penetrating oil overnight, followed with a repeat with the hammer taps.

Or use an air hammer on the wrench.

**cyberlegend1994** · #35 3 Weeks Ago

Here's how I ended up freeing mine:

1. Place U-lock through frame to brace crank. (Not recommended with CF frames)
2. Heat crank end near pedal with electric heat gun.
3. Use Park Tools Cone Wrench (15/22 mm) to twist pedal in correct direction. Backup was with a hex-head socket and a breaker bar with a 3/8-inch drive. Extra leverage on breaker bar if needed would have been from a piece of 1-inch PVC pipe.
4. Place Anti-Seize compound on threads of replacement pedals before installing. Better than any grease out there for thread protection, won't dry up or evaporate.

Just call me MacGyver...

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