Cycling Road Shoes. What size? - Page 2

Anyone? :\

If the soles are CF, then you can remove the cleats, plug the holes, tape off the uppers ... AND THEN, use some wet-dry sandpaper to smooth out the scratches ... wipe the dust off (OR, rinse with water & let dry) ... then, spray (the affected area of ...) the bottoms with some automotive clear coat.

REPEAT AS NECESSARY.

If the soles are nylon, you SOL unless you are really MORE patient than you will have to be to remedy a scratched CF sole.

BTW. This is stating what you now probably know to be all too obvious, but if you find yourself walking more often than you had envisioned when you bought your shoes & pedals (or, vice versa), then you may want to buy a pair of MTB shoes.

[QUOTE=alfeng;3912342
Personally, despite what Greg Lemond suggests (no offense, but he probably doesn't buy off-the-rack cycling shoes), I would rather have a pair of shoes which are an incrementally larger size (usually, one size Euro ... a half-size American) larger than a snug pair.[/QUOTE]

My rule for fitting modern road cycling shoes is snug but not painful. There should be no excessive compression at the midfoot (causes Morton's neuroma), and there should be no pressure on the toes (causes bunions), but the fit should be closer than that of a pair of training flats for running.

FWIW, It may surprise you to know, that he actually does wear off the shelf cycling shoes now as he is no longer racing/training thousands of miles a year... I was simply relaying what his (and according to him is what a VAST majority professional cyclists) preferences are regarding form, fit, and function of a cycling shoe in the peloton. YMMV.

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