Replacing powertap hub battery on the indoortrainer Pro 300PT

I emailed cycleops the question how I should replace the battery in the hub of my Cycleops Pro 300PT. But they didn't answer.

Should I take the flywheel out of the frame? Or is it possible to replace the battery without dismantle the flywheel?

The battery cap is a 2-piece design. It does not require you to take the flywheel out of the frame.

Just note that when you put the cap back on, it is designed to have one side overlap the other. Incorrect assembly will result in the batteries not being held in properly.

Paul, you already need a battery? Yours is newer than mine!

That being said, Robb Zbierski is the Product Manager at Saris (robbz@saris.com); he's been very helpful to me with a variety of issues and questions. One of his current projects is an Owner Maintenance Manual which will describe all such tweaking that we need to do, including tensioning up the chain. Not sure of a timeline on this (it'll probably be awhile), but he is working on it.

Jeff

PS: If there is a way to do it without touching the flywheel, I would certainly go that route.

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'07 S-Works Tarmac SL, Polar CS600+Power
2008 Cervelo P3C, Zipp 900c+808

'07 Specialized Epic Marathon w/Crossmax SLRs
CycleOps Pro 300PT Indoor Cycle Trainer (my winter ride)

Thanks, I will try it.

Fortunately my battery is still alive :-) But I was already looking for a new battery and searching for an option for how to replace it. I don't want to search for it when it happens because it will take too much time and will probably cost me a training day and those training days are rare from monday-friday.

At the moment I train on Saturday and Sunday. And try to train on Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday. This Saturday I will go for my second 60 minute time trial, hopefully I have made some progression with this training regime on the cycleops.

I am finding TTs to be a waste of time in the sense that they are not in the SST range described by Dr Coggan (unless you actually do an hour wow that's tough) and I can tell if I need to move up a notch in power on my 3x20s by checking HR in the last five minutes of the first interval and doing a sprint at half of my max power at the end of my last interval....Man you must be addicted to your 300PT if you are looking for a battery already I think I am bonding with my KK Road as well.

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Romans 5:10 For if, when we were enemies, we were reconciled to God by the death of his Son, much more, being reconciled, we shall be saved by his life. http://www.earnharts.com/html/realau...cific.asp?id=3

Color me stupid , but I can not find the battery or battery cap on the Pro 300PT. The manual gives the battery life for both console and hub batteries, but only explains how to change the console batteries.

It looks to me like the sender unit at the hub is powered via wires from the console.

Is this correct? Is the reference in the manual incorrect?

I had no idea in February, and I still have no idea...

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'07 S-Works Tarmac SL, Polar CS600+Power
2008 Cervelo P3C, Zipp 900c+808

'07 Specialized Epic Marathon w/Crossmax SLRs
CycleOps Pro 300PT Indoor Cycle Trainer (my winter ride)

Take a look at the gray plastic cap on the non-drive side of the hub of the flywheel. There are 2 allen bolts that hold it in place. You may need to rotate the flywheel in order to gain easy access to them. Loosen one of the bolts and replace the battery. Replace that side of the cap, and then repeat on the other half of the cap. Note the polarity of the batteries when you replace them.

You are correct, the receiver is powered by the console via the wires routed through the frame. This is just the receiver though. The hub is powered by batteries that need t be replaced over time.

RZ

I thank you for pointing this out, and let me compliment you on being clever enough to figure it out. I would never have found it on my own.

For you fellow-owners, this might help you:-

These covers are hidden behind the frame of the bike and the allen bolts are only indirectly visible, and only accessible to an allen key when the wheel is rotated to the right position. No hint is given that the gray plastic might hide things of interest to the user. Of course, the console unit battery cover gives no indication either. But if I were to choose to leave one description out of the manual, I'd omit the instructions for the console - it's a lot more obvious (so long as you know there are batteries to be replaced).

I kind of hope that someone at Saris reads this and updates the manual with this information and probably a few photographs as well.

Anyway, thanks RZ, this is a big help. How did you figure this out?

I'm the aforementioned former Product Manager for the CycleOps Indoor Cycles. Thanks for the compliments on my mental prowess though. It's nice to get a compliment on the web.

We designed the distribution of our Indoor Cycles to be handled through our network of independent bicycle dealers that are aware that the bikes should be sold and serviced by them. Did you get a chance to get a hold of the dealer that you bought it from? Also, our CS staff is extensively trained in all aspects of support and troubleshooting. While the phones and email lines can get bogged down, we make every effort to return every phone call and email we receive.

Thanks for your support.

RZ

Aha. I should read more carefully!

The dealer is quite local and has been very supportive in may ways for may cycling products, but I did not expect that something as apparently simple as battery replacement should need to get them involved, so I didn't think to call them.

I generally read the manual before asking for help and when I saw that the manual explained how to replace the console battery, but not the hub battery I just got very confused.

If you have any influence with the current Product Manager, maybe encourage him/her to update the user guide?

Thanks