Hello All,

i have an old (1970s?) road bike by Nishiki that I picked up for $30 US and I would like
to paint it.

But, to have it painted would cost way more than the bike is worth. Can I do it? Will it look like
hell warmed over?

Thoughts?

--
Regards, Joe

"Joe Potter" <none@home.org> wrote in message
news:s3c0b.62576$qg3.3093020@twister.tampabay.rr.com...
> Hello All,
>
> i have an old (1970s?) road bike by Nishiki that I picked up for $30 US
and
> I would like to paint it.
>
> But, to have it painted would cost way more than the bike is worth. Can I
do
> it? Will it look like hell warmed over?
>
> Thoughts?

You might take off the crank and seat post, and look inside the frame for rust. If it has a lot,
then it might not be worth it. But if it's clean, if the frame fits you, and if the frame doesn't
have a million miles on it, a paint job could make for a nice bike. You can go to your LBS to order
stickers for the bike.

A good paint job goes from about $150.00 and up.

M.

"Michael" <mdw3-nospam@cornell.edu> wrote in message
news:8ac0b.102144$o27.2296110@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> "Joe Potter" <none@home.org> wrote in message
> news:s3c0b.62576$qg3.3093020@twister.tampabay.rr.com...
> > Hello All,
> >
> > i have an old (1970s?) road bike by Nishiki that I
picked up for $30 US
> and
> > I would like to paint it.
> >
> > But, to have it painted would cost way more than the
bike is worth. Can I
> do
> > it? Will it look like hell warmed over?
> >
> > Thoughts?
>
>
> You might take off the crank and seat post, and look
inside the frame for
> rust. If it has a lot, then it might not be worth it. But
if it's clean, if
> the frame fits you, and if the frame doesn't have a million miles on
it, a paint job
> could make for a nice bike. You can go to your LBS to order
stickers for the bike.
>
> A good paint job goes from about $150.00 and up.
>
> M.
>
>

It's tough to get a hard finish if you do it yourself - although a car buff friend told me to try
appliance paint

You may be able to do a bit better than $150 for a professional job - a local shop quoted me $110
for powder coating a frame and fork

On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 18:57:59 -0500, Grenouil <grenouil7@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> although a car buff friend told me to try appliance paint

Good idea! Appliance paint goes on smooth, is rather tough, and comes only in a couple ugly colors.
Colors aside, it sounds like the best way to DIY.
--
Rick Onanian

On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 22:11:16 +0000, Michael wrote:

>> i have an old (1970s?) road bike by Nishiki that I picked up for $30 US
> and
>> I would like to paint it.
>>
>> But, to have it painted would cost way more than the bike is worth. Can I
> do
>> it? Will it look like hell warmed over?

If you do it yourself -- and are not experienced and don't have all the equipment -- yeah. But you
can get it powder-coated for less than you think. Friend of mine went to the shop I recommended, and
went with a color they had in stock, and got a real nice finish for $80. Mine, I wanted a particular
color (metalic cobalt blue) and a chromed fork, so mine cost $150.

If you start adding up cost for paint cans, primer, and the effort required to strip the frame, then
powder coating is a bargain. It also lasts a long time, and it very tough.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | This is my religion. There is no need for temples; no need for _`\(,_ | complicated
philosophy. Our own brain, our own heart is our (_)/ (_) | temple. The philosophy is kindness.
--The Dalai Lama

"Joe Potter" <none@home.org> wrote in message
news:s3c0b.62576$qg3.3093020@twister.tampabay.rr.com...
> Hello All,
>
> i have an old (1970s?) road bike by Nishiki that I picked up for $30 US
and
> I would like to paint it.
>
> But, to have it painted would cost way more than the bike is worth. Can I
do
> it? Will it look like hell warmed over?

Yes, you can paint your bike.

I've done it. Spray paint works fine, if you don't mind touching it up now and then - it's not quite
as durable as two-stage auto paint or powdercoating; but it is acceptable. You can remove the old
decals using lighter fluid (and even re-apply them later if they're intact.)

You don't have to strip the paint: Just sand it real good - nice and smooth - before painting.
Judicious use of primer and body filler will allow you to build- up gouges and rough spots. Use auto
primer on rust spots (after sanding thoroughly).

If you're going to strip the paint, I recommend "aircraft paint remover". Other strippers will work,
too. It's very messy - you'll want to wear goggles and elbow-length butyl rubber gloves. Chemical
paint stripper is *nasty* stuff! Don't get any of it on your skin, in eyes or mouth. Be extra
careful, and only strip paint outside or in a well-ventilated area. 'Nuf said.

Plain old $2 cheap enamel spray paint dries pretty tough; but you have to let it "cure" for a
week or so before rebuilding the bike (the hot summer sun does a good job of curing). You'll
probably need 2 cans of paint, applied in several light coats. After it has dried for a few days,
you can also spray it with polyurethane clearcoat. Any department store should have what you
need. Surprisingly, I've had the best results with the cheapest generic house-brand spray paint.
Go figure.

If you want something special, there are some great new paints on the market. They even have that
amazing irridescent multi-color paint in spray cans now (you may have seen it on Klein and
Cannondale bikes frames, and on hot rod cars). It's a two-stage paint system, and comes in three
different color schemes. The kit is under $20. It would look very sharp on a bike frame. I have a
couple of frames that might get a irridescent paint job this summer.

Total cost should be under $10. Time spent will vary from under an hour to a full day or more,
depending on how elaborately you disassemble and/or strip/prep the frame.

While you're being creative, why not buy a few bottles of Testors model paint and some small brushes
and paint flames, or little murals on the frame? Get creative! It's a $30 bike; but you could turn
it into your masterpiece (or practice for your masterpiece). If you don't like it, paint over it. No
harm done.

Be sure to snap some before-and-after digital photos and post them for us to see.

Have fun,

Barry

"Rick Onanian" <spamsink@cox.net> wrote in message newsprt4ma4miw8gzvw@news.east.cox.net...
> On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 18:57:59 -0500, Grenouil <grenouil7@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> > although a car buff friend told me to try appliance paint
>
> Good idea! Appliance paint goes on smooth, is rather tough, and comes only in a couple ugly
> colors. Colors aside, it sounds like the best way to DIY.

I have repainted several bikes over the years. Auto touch-up paint in an aerosol can is the worst.
That stuff scratches waaaay too easily. I've had really good luck with Krylon aerosol paint. I think
the best example is an old wrought iron and wood bench I have sitting in the Texas sun for most of
the day (only shaded in the early morning and late evening). The Krylon satin black I shot on it
several years ago shows no signs of fading and has put up with the abuse of playground balls with
nary a nick. The bike I shot with metallic green touch-up paint at about the same time already has
some major scratches.

The most important step in a good finish is a good sanding job. Before you paint, make sure you wash
it thoroughly and don't get your greasy hands on it again. Then shoot it with several light coats of
primer followed by several light coats of paint. Don't spray it on too thick or the paint will run.
Wait for each coat to dry as per manufacturer recommendations. Finally, take your time and it will
turn out nice.

Good luck! Buck

Joe Potter wrote:

> Hello All,
>
> i have an old (1970s?) road bike by Nishiki that I picked up for $30 US and I would like to
> paint it.
>
> But, to have it painted would cost way more than the bike is worth. Can I do it? Will it look like
> hell warmed over?
>
> Thoughts?
>
> --
> Regards, Joe

Beauty resides in the usual place. vis: the "eye of the beholder" You can paint your own bike. You
can do the job with a paint brush, spray can, or MegaMart special electric pump paint sprayer. You
can strip to bare metal or paint over decals and all, it is your call. Who but you (and your
in-laws) know how fussy you are? ;-p It is all up to you. If you are willing to strip down to the
frame and hang it up with wire you can do a decent home paint job. I painted an old Norco mtn bike
last winter. Could not hack another ride on the spotty robin's egg blue frame - handlebars
included! Washed it with paint thinner and surface sanded all surfaces with something like 120
grit wet/dry paper. The very tough paint had chips out of it, but no rust in the <not> chromoly
steel frame. I laid down a primer coat over the existing paint with a rust paint primer, followed
by a couple of coats of my favourite bright yellow rust paint. It dried to a tough bright yellow
finish, very easily seen at night and easy to touch up with a brush. I did the entire paint job
with a brush, as I did not have an area that would tolerate overspray from a paint gun or spray
bomb. Some persons reactions were negative, as they thought it was silly to paint a bike with a
brush. I felt a bit negative about my efforts for a while even though I liked the result. Then I
went on my usual rides, shopping, visiting, etc. and naturally chatting now and then with other
cyclists. Reactions to my paint job (from strangers) were mainly unsolicited. One young fella made
me tell him exactly what I had done, as he did not believe a bicycle could be painted with a
brush, and of course wanted to paint his bike too! So I guess the question is, how professional do
YOU want it to look? Brush painting is a simple and not too difficult skill. In the days of Henry
Ford, ALL of his Model T's were painted with paintbrushes. Good news!! Bikes have a much smaller
surface area than a model T Ford. :-} It's not hard, do multi coats, be a bit skimpy re: thickness
of each coat. You will do fine.

Bernie

OK, I know HOW to paint a bike, but should I? I have a 1954 Schwinn Traveler 3-speed (
http://home.thegrid.net/~lllove/travelersmall.JPG ) Front and rear rack, fenders, generator and
headlight work, tail light missing. Rear rim looks like it was run over with a car and
"straightened" with a big ball pen hammer but is still ridable, front rim needs replacement too,
otherwise it is mechanically sound. All I need to restore this to full functionality is new rear
light, new rims, new brake pads, new tires... and a paint job. The original paint is about 40% gone.
It had silk screened logos on the frame, hand painted pin stripes on the fork and a big decal on the
chain guard. No way I can reproduce any of that. I am very hesitant to strip it and give it a plain
jane utilitarian paint job and destroy what ever collectible value it has even with it's current
ratty paint. But I can't leave like it is with bare metal hanging out. What to do, what to do...

Lorenzo L. Love http://home.thegrid.net/~lllove

"Americans are broad-minded people. They'll accept the fact that a person can be an alcoholic, a
dope fiend, a wife beater, and even a newspaperman, but if a man doesn't drive there's something
wrong with him." Art Buchwald

In article <3F41B465.5020901@thegrid.net>, lllove@thegrid.net says...
> OK, I know HOW to paint a bike, but should I? I have a 1954 Schwinn Traveler 3-speed (
> http://home.thegrid.net/~lllove/travelersmall.JPG ) Front and rear rack, fenders, generator and
> headlight work, tail light missing. Rear rim looks like it was run over with a car and
> "straightened" with a big ball pen hammer but is still ridable, front rim needs replacement too,
> otherwise it is mechanically sound. All I need to restore this to full functionality is new rear
> light, new rims, new brake pads, new tires... and a paint job. The original paint is about 40%
> gone. It had silk screened logos on the frame, hand painted pin stripes on the fork and a big
> decal on the chain guard. No way I can reproduce any of that. I am very hesitant to strip it and
> give it a plain jane utilitarian paint job and destroy what ever collectible value it has even
> with it's current ratty paint. But I can't leave like it is with bare metal hanging out. What to
> do, what to do...

You might go to the Schwinn forums on www.schwinn.com and see what the Schwinn fanatics
think about it.

--
David Kerber An optimist says "Good morning, Lord." While a pessimist says "Good Lord,
it's morning".

Remove the ns_ from the address before e-mailing.

"David L. Johnson" <david.johnson@lehigh.edu> wrote in message
news:bhrt67$c00@fidoii.CC.Lehigh.EDU...
> On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 22:11:16 +0000, Michael wrote:

> If you do it yourself -- and are not experienced and don't
have all the
> equipment -- yeah. But you can get it powder-coated for
less than you
> think. Friend of mine went to the shop I recommended, and
went with a
> color they had in stock, and got a real nice finish for
$80. Mine, I
> wanted a particular color (metalic cobalt blue) and a
chromed fork, so
> mine cost $150.
>
> If you start adding up cost for paint cans, primer, and
the effort
> required to strip the frame, then powder coating is a
bargain. It also
> lasts a long time, and it very tough.
>
> David L. Johnson
>
A powder coat is the best bet for a tough finish - the problem for me is finding someone local who
can powder coat at a reasonable price - return shipping cost to have it done non-locally on a low
cost frameset is generally prohibitive.....

On Tue, 19 Aug 2003 07:57:45 +0000, Grenouil wrote:

> A powder coat is the best bet for a tough finish - the problem for me is finding someone local who
> can powder coat at a reasonable price - return shipping cost to have it done non-locally on a low
> cost frameset is generally prohibitive.....

So, where's local? Bellsouth.net.... are you near a large city? I'm sure there would be a decent
powder coater in Houston, Atlanta, or whereever the nearest big city is. Bikers -- that is, Harley
riders -- use powder-coating for a lot of their customization.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | You will say Christ saith this and the apostles say this; but _`\(,_ | what canst thou say?
-- George Fox. (_)/ (_) |

"David L. Johnson" <david.johnson@lehigh.edu> wrote in message
news:bht9nj$14je@fidoii.CC.Lehigh.EDU...
> On Tue, 19 Aug 2003 07:57:45 +0000, Grenouil wrote:
>
>
> So, where's local? Bellsouth.net.... are you near a
large city? I'm
> sure there would be a decent powder coater in Houston,
Atlanta, or
> whereever the nearest big city is. Bikers -- that is,
Harley riders --
> use powder-coating for a lot of their customization.
>
> --
>
Nashville - and yeah, I've checked a couple of the Biker custom shops - they mostly do chroming.
There is a powder coater who can do this at $110 - and I'm still looking.....

ack <swhitmer@sumnertariff.com.ns> wrote in message news:<bhtdri$l82$1@sun-news.laserlink.net>...
> I currently bike to the train (MARC http://www.mtamaryland.com/) then ride the train to DC. I
> would like to take my bike with me but it's not allowed. Most of the other transit systems in the
> area carry bikes ex: MetroRail (except rush hour), Metrobus, light rail in Baltimore and most of
> the local bus systems carry bikes now also. I was wondering if anyone has seen a system for
> carrying bikes on a train like Amtrak with no baggage cars. I'm curious if there is a current
> system being used somewhere else that I could use as an example when asking Maryland Transit for
> an option other than buying a folding bicycle and packing it into a carrying case.

CalTrain, running from San Francisco to San Jose (and on to Gilroy on some runs) has space on the
northernmost car of each train for bikes. You wheel your bike in and bungee it to the wall or to
other bikes. There are some trains with a second bike car. Each bike car has a max capacity of 32
bikes. See http://www.caltrain.org/caltrain_bikes2.html . I live across the street from one of the
stations and I can tell you that the bike option is quite popular.

- rick

ack <swhitmer@sumnertariff.com.ns> wrote in message news:<bhtdri$l82$1@sun-news.laserlink.net>...
> I currently bike to the train (MARC http://www.mtamaryland.com/) then ride the train to DC. I
> would like to take my bike with me but it's not allowed. Most of the other transit systems in the
> area carry bikes ex: MetroRail (except rush hour), Metrobus, light rail in Baltimore and most of
> the local bus systems carry bikes now also. I was wondering if anyone has seen a system for
> carrying bikes on a train like Amtrak with no baggage cars. I'm curious if there is a current
> system being used somewhere else that I could use as an example when asking Maryland Transit for
> an option other than buying a folding bicycle and packing it into a carrying case.

CalTrain, running from San Francisco to San Jose (and on to Gilroy on some runs) has space on the
northernmost car of each train for bikes. You wheel your bike in and bungee it to the wall or to
other bikes. There are some trains with a second bike car. Each bike car has a max capacity of 32
bikes. See http://www.caltrain.org/caltrain_bikes2.html . I live across the street from one of the
stations and I can tell you that the bike option is quite popular.

- rick