Chain replacement questions

The chain on my all-Ultegra 1999 road bike is likely the original from the previous owner. After a
season on it and a few winter rides, it's starting to shift less precisely, especially getting down
to the 11 cog. It's clean and everything is well adjusted in the drive-train.

Questions:

Should I get the Ultegra level chain or the DuraAce? - seems you can get the DuraAce chain for close
to the same price at Jensons.

How many chains will the cassette out live?

Thanks.

"Donald Specker" <vze2hs6d@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:Cajga.11448$hB5.7959@nwrdny02.gnilink.net...
> The chain on my all-Ultegra 1999 road bike is likely the original from the previous owner. After a
> season on it and a few winter rides, it's
starting
> to shift less precisely, especially getting down to the 11 cog. It's
clean
> and everything is well adjusted in the drive-train.
>
> Questions:
>
> Should I get the Ultegra level chain or the DuraAce? - seems you can get
the
> DuraAce chain for close to the same price at Jensons.
>

Actually, you should think about the Sachs PC89 or -99. Love that quick connector! From what Sheldon
says, the power links fit Shimano chains too if you really HAVE to have Shimano.

> How many chains will the cassette out live?

If you replace the chains in a timely fashion, the cassette will outlive several chains. If you wait
till the chain's worn the teeth on the cassette, and the chain's all stretched out, the cassette and
the chain get replaced at the same time.

The least expensive method to test whether you need a new cassette or not is to buy that new chain,
install it, and see if it starts skipping. No skipping = no new cassette. Make sure you really stand
on it a few times in different gears that you like to ride just to make sure that it won't skip.

Mike

On Wed, 26 Mar 2003 09:16:49 -0800, "Mike S." <mikeshaw2@coxDOTnet> wrote:

>The least expensive method to test whether you need a new cassette or not is to buy that new
>chain, install it, and see if it starts skipping. No skipping = no new cassette. Make sure you
>really stand on it a few times in different gears that you like to ride just to make sure that it
>won't skip.

The cassette is gone when that happens. I use my cassettes for 8-10,000 mi. I don't get slipping but
the snap in the shifts deteriorates slowly. It's only when I mount a new cassette that I really can
tell that the old cassette is worn.

On Wed, 26 Mar 2003 09:54:26 -0500, Donald Specker wrote:

> The chain on my all-Ultegra 1999 road bike is likely the original from the previous owner. After a
> season on it and a few winter rides, it's starting to shift less precisely, especially getting
> down to the 11 cog. It's clean and everything is well adjusted in the drive-train.

I would imagine so. After a season? On a chain that was already used? Too long, unless your season
consists of rides to the ice-cream shop only.

You should at least be checking your chain regularly after it has 2000 miles on it. I regularly
replace mine at about that mileage. If 12 full links measure more than 12 1/16", replace it.

But buying a used bike, I would replace the chain immediately. I'd also replace the cables.

> Should I get the Ultegra level chain or the DuraAce? - seems you can get the DuraAce chain for
> close to the same price at Jensons.

It doesn't matter. Fancier chains are prettier, not more durable.

>
> How many chains will the cassette out live?

Depends on how worn the chain is. As the chain wears, it accelerates wear on the cassette itself --
and the chainrings. If you try to get 4000 miles on a chain, your cassettes will also need replacing
that often, and the cahinrings will not fare much better. If you cut chain replacement to 2000
miles, cassettes should last for several chains.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | The trouble with the rat race is that even if you win you're _`\(,_ | still a rat. --Lilly
Tomlin (_)/ (_) |

vze-<< Questions:

Should I get the Ultegra level chain or the DuraAce? - seems you can get the DuraAce chain for close
to the same price at Jensons.

Get the least expensive compatible chain, like the HG-72 or a Sram PC-59-

<< How many chains will the cassette out live?

If the chain is kept clean and measured regularly, then replaced when the 'stretch' is about 1/16 of
an inch-many-if the chain is really toasted, your cogset probably is too-

about 3000 miles or so-like the oil in yer car-change before the oil is not 'oily' anymore-

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

On Wed, 26 Mar 2003 14:54:26 GMT, "Donald Specker" <vze2hs6d@verizon.net> wrote:

>The chain on my all-Ultegra 1999 road bike is likely the original from the previous owner. After a
>season on it and a few winter rides, it's starting to shift less precisely, especially getting down
>to the 11 cog. It's clean and everything is well adjusted in the drive-train.

There's only one objective way to determine if it's time to replace a chain; measure it. See the
section entitled "Measuring Chain Wear" on:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

>Questions:
>
>Should I get the Ultegra level chain or the DuraAce? - seems you can get the DuraAce chain for
>close to the same price at Jensons.

Your choice. I've been quite happy with Dura Ace chains.

>How many chains will the cassette out live?

This depends upon how long you let a chain go before replacing it. If you keep your cogs clean and
your chain clean and lubricated, and don't let chain wear get out of hand, a cassette will outlast
a number of chains. I have a Dura Ace cassette that's gone over 40K miles and has seen at least
three chains.

>Thanks.

de nada

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3

"Qui si parla Campagnolo" <vecchio51@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030327090313.14675.00000016@mb-fe.aol.com...
> vze-<< Questions:
>
> Should I get the Ultegra level chain or the DuraAce? - seems you can get
the
> DuraAce chain for close to the same price at Jensons.
>
> Get the least expensive compatible chain, like the HG-72 or a Sram PC-59-
>

I just exchanged my worn out Ultegra ( 85% worn according to measurement) chain for a new Dura Ace.
The price difference was only a few bucks but it feels like the DA chain shifts quicker. Maybe
that's cause it's new and the LBS told me it would but it sure felt like it.

--
Perre

Replace the DOTs to reply

Thanks for the input. I went out and measured my chain, and it looked to be spot on 12 inches as
it's supposed to be.

Seems to me that the only problem is shifting down to the smallest 11 tooth cog. That's probably the
toughest challenge.

Does length measurement actually account for side-to-side play? The side-to-side play seems to be
the problem when moving across the cassette.

Thanks.

"John Everett" <jeverett3@earthlink.DEFEAT.UCE.BOTS.net> wrote in message
news:td768vcfavogs1c1dfronjrtgcm0avo0j4@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 26 Mar 2003 14:54:26 GMT, "Donald Specker" <vze2hs6d@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> >The chain on my all-Ultegra 1999 road bike is likely the original from
the
> >previous owner. After a season on it and a few winter rides, it's
starting
> >to shift less precisely, especially getting down to the 11 cog. It's
clean
> >and everything is well adjusted in the drive-train.
>
> There's only one objective way to determine if it's time to replace a chain; measure it. See the
> section entitled "Measuring Chain Wear" on:
>
> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
>
> >Questions:
> >
> >Should I get the Ultegra level chain or the DuraAce? - seems you can get
the
> >DuraAce chain for close to the same price at Jensons.
>
> Your choice. I've been quite happy with Dura Ace chains.
>
> >How many chains will the cassette out live?
>
> This depends upon how long you let a chain go before replacing it. If you keep your cogs clean and
> your chain clean and lubricated, and don't let chain wear get out of hand, a cassette will outlast
> a number of chains. I have a Dura Ace cassette that's gone over 40K miles and has seen at least
> three chains.
>
> >Thanks.
>
> de nada
>
>
> jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3

Donald Specker <vze2hs6d@verizon.net> wrote:
> I went out and measured my chain, and it looked to be spot on 12 inches as it's supposed to be.

> Seems to me that the only problem is shifting down to the smallest 11 tooth cog. That's probably
> the toughest challenge.

That could very well be due to friction between the inner cable and housing, or inner cable and BB
guide. When shifing to the smallest cog, you have minimum tension on the cable.

Art Harris