radial wheel trueing?? - Page 2

"g.daniels" <datakoll@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:41b0dda1.0304120748.42b2638e@posting.google.com...
> ok. radial wheel trueing a guild secret!!! ach du!!! i forgot an important step. ouch. after
> twisting the unbent rim nipples to the point where the untwisted bent nipples gained enough torque
> to allow the mech to consider riding on the rim and then untwisting the previously untwisted
> depressed area nipples(amuzi heads to the field?-this is a korean translation-I could do it
> backwards?) to give the rim a generally round character, the mech then marked the opposite side to
> that bent area and looosened those nipples a 1/2 turn then a full turn giving the depressed
> area-bent rim nipples/spokes yet more leeway to relax and unbend with out ever tightening
> them-just allowing for the entire congruent torsion structure to head toward the max design area.
> the untightening of the opposite side may be heresy? as unscrewing those nipple/spokes may give an
> elliptical/eggshape-maybe giving the seemingly(actually more minor dents)random mutation to
> numerous depressed areas rather than the Big One the mech started out to eliminate but unscrewing
> the opposite side does get it on the road again.

At the risk of implying things which you didn't actually write and presuming to understand your
post, I think you are saying that you were having difficulty getting your wheel round.

And it appears you asked someone else to have a go at it. And I think you got the impression that he
improved the roundness of your wheel by slacking spokes where the rim was too close to the hub and
tensioning the spokes at a point opposite.

In my opinion, that may have some effect but it only approximates the correct response which is to
tension _all_ the spokes outside the zone where the rim is too close to the hub and/or slack the
area that's too close.

As Jobst mentioned last week, it may be necessary to actually bend a section of the rim out away
from the hub if the technique above isn't sufficient. Where a rim has been dropped before building,
or where a wheel has been smacked such that there's a flat spot, and where normal variance of spoke
tension isn't enough to get the rim round, I use a rim puller:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...st/RIMTRUE.JPG

Anyway, the idea is to get more tension in the wheel except where there's a flat spot. If the flat
spot spans, say, six spokes, I would tighten 26 or at least 24 spokes ( 32h wheel), not just a few
opposite the problem area.

--
Andrew Muzi http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971