Bike mech wanted to replace cables?

So I have my rear derailer cable that's previously been anchored and a little frayed on the end now.
Since the mech has to thread it back thru the barrel adjuster he claimed that it would be easier to
replace the cable. He also wanted to do the same with the brake cables even though they are already
anchored. My bikes been in storage for the last two years but the cables looked in decent condition
to me. Since I'm paying for a tuneup I guess if they do need replacing then this is the time to do
it but I seriously doubt that they needed replacement.

The bike store in question is a very reputable bike store in the Chicago area.

So, what this mechanic just trying to run up the bill?

I replace my brake and derailer cables almost every year. They're like $1.50 each.

"Robert Nicholson" <robert@elastica.com> wrote in message
news:24a182bd.0305171819.ce8109b@posting.google.com...
> So I have my rear derailer cable that's previously been anchored and a little frayed on the end
> now. Since the mech has to thread it back thru the barrel adjuster he claimed that it would be
> easier to replace the cable. He also wanted to do the same with the brake cables even though they
> are already anchored. My bikes been in storage for the last two years but the cables looked in
> decent condition to me. Since I'm paying for a tuneup I guess if they do need replacing then this
> is the time to do it but I seriously doubt that they needed replacement.
>
> The bike store in question is a very reputable bike store in the Chicago area.
>
> So, what this mechanic just trying to run up the bill?

"Robert Nicholson" <robert@elastica.com> wrote in message
news:24a182bd.0305171819.ce8109b@posting.google.com...
> So I have my rear derailer cable that's previously been anchored and a little frayed on the end
> now. Since the mech has to thread it back thru the barrel adjuster he claimed that it would be
> easier to replace the cable. He also wanted to do the same with the brake cables even though they
> are already anchored. My bikes been in storage for the last two years but the cables looked in
> decent condition to me. Since I'm paying for a tuneup I guess if they do need replacing then this
> is the time to do it but I seriously doubt that they needed replacement.
>
> The bike store in question is a very reputable bike store in the Chicago area.
>
> So, what this mechanic just trying to run up the bill?

If he said all the housings needed to be replaced, maybe. Threading a used cable through
housing or adjusters again is a ***** - usually it ends up with the wire fraying a lot farther
up and a lot more.

If the bike's been sitting, the cables might have corroded enough to make it worthwhile to replace
them. Replacing cables is cheap, having bad brakes can be very expensive at the hospital. Or should
I say breaks?

Jon Bond

I suggest that you try to remove a frayed cable and then reinstall it.

On 17 May 2003 19:19:20 -0700, robert@elastica.com (Robert Nicholson) wrote:

>
>So, what this mechanic just trying to run up the bill?

I usually replace all the cables when I tune up people's bikes. They're cheap (I charge $3.00 for
stainless steel...if someone balks at that, I do have inferior galvanized ones for $1.00); no sense
compromising safety over a few extra dollars, IMO. When I don't, it's when the cables look to be in
nearly new condition. Housing I don't replace unless there was corrosion on the old cable, or there
are cuts, abrasions, or kinks on the old housing. Other wear items I look at carefully are the
tires, brake pads, and handlebar grips.

I always tell customers upfront what I intend to replace during a tune-up. If I am not around to do
the write-up, I have instructed staff to tell customers that approximately $20-30 in small parts
_may_ be used in the repair of their bike.

Robert Nicholson wrote:
> So I have my rear derailer cable that's previously been anchored and a little frayed on the end
> now. Since the mech has to thread it back thru the barrel adjuster he claimed that it would be
> easier to replace the cable.

That's reasonable and is what I usually do with my own cables. It can be awkward/time
consuming/risky/impossible to re-use a frayed cable, especially if it was cut short.

> He also wanted to do the same with the brake cables even though they are already anchored. My
> bikes been in storage for the last two years but the cables looked in decent condition to me.

That's not so reasonable, if cables are still in good condition, and modern stainless steel cables
stay in good condition for quite a while. I suggest asking the store to leave the brakes alone this
time (unless positive they are dangerous) and learing to do more tuning up yourself.

~PB

Robert-<< Since the mech has to thread it back thru the barrel adjuster he claimed that it would be
easier to replace the cable.

I agree, it is easier. But tough to say whether he was saving time or the condition of the inner
wire was good enough to re-use without seeing it. I doubt he was 'running up the bill', not with a
$2-$4 cable.

IOnner wire and hosing replacement is a inexpensive way to get porly working brakes and ders back
into good working order. The cheapest thing to check, change. He would be seen as 'running up the
bill' if he changed the rear der
w/o changing and checking the inner wire first.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Cables are cheap. If they show signs of corrosion, replace them. If they're still shiny, all he has
to do with the frayed one is clip off the frayed portion, if they're is enough sticking out from the
deraileur.

If all he knows is that they are two years old , but not that the bike hasn't been ridden, then he's
just following SOP.

May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear for the hills! Chris

Chris'Z Corner "The Website for the Common Bicyclist": http://www.geocities.com/czcorner

"That's not so reasonable, if cables are still in good condition, and modern stainless steel cables
stay in good condition for quite a while. I suggest asking the store to leave the brakes alone this
time (unless positive they are dangerous) and learning to do more tuning up yourself.

~PB"

Actually, learning to do your own maintenance is a good idea, period. Not just to save money, nor to
take away from a shop's business. It's just that things have a tendency to go wrong when a bike shop
is not readily available.

May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear for the hills! Chris

Chris'Z Corner "The Website for the Common Bicyclist": http://www.geocities.com/czcorner

These are whatever cables I got when I got my bike with Campy Record 99 and the housing has
Campagnolo printed on it. The housing itself looks new it's just that the end that went through the
barrel adjuster is frayed after I removed the cap that was crimped on there.

I don't think I'll worry about it. I'll let him do what he wants.

vecchio51@aol.com (Qui si parla Campagnolo) wrote in message
news:<20030518090535.19860.00000188@mb-m27.aol.com>...
> Robert-<< Since the mech has to thread it back thru the barrel adjuster he claimed that it would
> be easier to replace the cable.
>
> I agree, it is easier. But tough to say whether he was saving time or the condition of the inner
> wire was good enough to re-use without seeing it. I doubt he was 'running up the bill', not with a
> $2-$4 cable.
>
> IOnner wire and hosing replacement is a inexpensive way to get porly working brakes and ders back
> into good working order. The cheapest thing to check, change. He would be seen as 'running up the
> bill' if he changed the rear der
> w/o changing and checking the inner wire first.
>
>
> Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
> (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

robert@elastica.com (Robert Nicholson) wrote in message
news:<24a182bd.0305171819.ce8109b@posting.google.com>... <cut>
> So, what this mechanic just trying to run up the bill?

I would have thought that the main element in the bill would be labour charges.

It justs sounds like being thorough.

After all, if you paid for a tune up and soon after had difficulty with the cables you would then
question the abilities of the mechanic.

It's really catch-22 for the LBS. If they do work you don't think is needed they are running up the
bill, if there is a problem shortly after the tune up then they should have spotted it while the
bike was with them.

For this reason I have seen the owner of my LBS refuse to take bikes for a general service. Instead
he will look a bike over and agree a list of tasks with the owner before accepting it.

His words were that he wanted to put a campy cable kit on and I don't exactly know what that is
exactly but the cost for this is going to be $25... The housing is in great shape and I believe the
cable itself apart from being frayed is also in good conditon.

He better not lose those little black rubber "UFOs" the stop the cable hitting my top tube.

Also, originally the cables on the downtown were setup to be crossed over instead of parallel with
each other. What's the norm here? I know on mountain bikes it's common to see them crossed but why
would you do that on a road bike?

"Robert Nicholson" <robert@elastica.com> wrote in message
news:24a182bd.0305180823.279c4c38@posting.google.com...

> These are whatever cables I got when I got my bike with Campy Record 99 and the housing has
> Campagnolo printed on it. The housing itself looks new it's just that the end that went through
> the barrel adjuster is frayed after I removed the cap that was crimped on there.

So they're four or five years old? Probably not a bad idea to replace them, especially if they're
frayed. The reason he suggested replacing the brakes at the same time is that Campy does an "ergo
cable set" which is all the cables, so he probably just doesn't want to break that up.

This time, might I suggest having your cables soldered, ala
http://www.suzyj.net/soldered_cable_end.jpg as this will ensure your cables never fray, and are
always easy to insert into housings. Also prevents a lot of punctured thumbs.

Regards,

Suzy

--
---
Suzy Jackson suzyj@bigpond.com http://www.suzyj.net

On 18 May 2003 22:29:07 GMT, skubanut@aol.com (Mike Krueger) wrote:

>Part of the fun and satisfaction of cycling is doing your own basic maintenence and repairs.

Maybe _your_ basic maintenance. Certainly _mine_. But I'd never push anyone else to do theirs, if
they didn't want to. Some people just don't grok spanners (and bike mechanics have to eat too).

"Robert Nicholson" <robert@elastica.com> wrote in message
news:24a182bd.0305181157.42e41ffc@posting.google.com...
> His words were that he wanted to put a campy cable kit on and I don't exactly know what that is
> exactly but the cost for this is going to be $25... The housing is in great shape and I believe
> the cable itself apart from being frayed is also in good conditon.
>
> He better not lose those little black rubber "UFOs" the stop the cable hitting my top tube.
>
> Also, originally the cables on the downtown were setup to be crossed over instead of parallel with
> each other. What's the norm here? I know on mountain bikes it's common to see them crossed but why
> would you do that on a road bike?

I used to think that looked dorky (maybe ten years ago) but now I cross the cables on Ergo bikes
frequently when it yields a better cable route. Mostly on small bikes.

I can't see your bike but a 1999 Campagnolo equipped bike getting $25 worth of cables four years
later is not unreasonable in and of itself. Some mechanics will replace just a wire and trim back
damaged casing, others will use fresh cable sets complete. Nothing weird about that either way,
personal taste in most cases. If it bothered you, you should have discussed it with the service
writer. If you otherwise trust the shop and the work is otherwise of good quality I would take his
word for the cable change.

--
Andrew Muzi http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971