trick to preventing a Park BBT2 from slipping (idea)

OK, You many of you might be doing this already, but I never liked how easy the BBT2 can slip out of
a BB cup during an install or removal. (Esp. with BB's that are being difficult) So, I get a
5/16"x24 bolt about 2.5" long, a 5/16" washer, and bolt the tool to the bb spindle. Then, I slip a 1
1/4" deep-well socket over the tool/BB assembly, attach a 1/2" drive breaker bar or torque wrench
(depending if it's an instal or a removal) and voila.....

Jay

i just use a QR Skewer through the BB spindle and a big crescent wrench.

"jjpsych" <jkjimerson@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:7fcf678f.0312011443.113ae985@posting.google.com...
> OK, You many of you might be doing this already, but I never liked how easy the BBT2 can slip out
> of a BB cup during an install or removal. (Esp. with BB's that are being difficult) So, I get a
> 5/16"x24 bolt about 2.5" long, a 5/16" washer, and bolt the tool to the bb spindle. Then, I slip a
> 1 1/4" deep-well socket over the tool/BB assembly, attach a 1/2" drive breaker bar or torque
> wrench (depending if it's an instal or a removal) and voila.....

I just bolt it on & slap a pipe wrench on it.

"drewski" <usenet-forum@cyclingforums.com> wrote in message news:3fcbe67b$1_3@news.chariot.net.au...
> Jjpsych wrote:
> > OK, You many of you might be doing this already, but I never liked how easy the BBT2 can slip
> > out of a BB cup during an install or removal. (Esp. with BB's that are being difficult) So, I
> > get a
> > 5/16"x24 bolt about 2.5" long, a 5/16" washer, and bolt the tool to
the
> > bb spindle. Then, I slip a 1
> > 6/4" deep-well socket over the tool/BB assembly, attach a 1/2" drive breaker bar or torque
> > wrench (depending if it's an instal or a removal) and voila..... Jay
>
>
>
> i just use a QR Skewer through the BB spindle and a big crescent wrench.
>

Yup. Works great on those pesky pipe billet splined jobs too!

http://www.pbase.com/image/16818276

Mike - love my left-handed-metric-crescent-hammer!!!!

drewski wrote:
> Jjpsych wrote:
> > OK, You many of you might be doing this already, but I never
> liked how > easy the BBT2 can slip out of a BB cup during an install or removal. > (Esp. with
> BB's that are being difficult) So, I get a > 5/16"x24 bolt about 2.5" long, a 5/16" washer, and
> bolt the tool to the > bb spindle. Then, I slip a 1
> > 6/4" deep-well socket over the tool/BB assembly, attach a 1/2"
> drive > breaker bar or torque wrench (depending if it's an instal or a > removal) and voila.....

> i just use a QR Skewer through the BB spindle and a big crescent wrench.

Not all BB spindles are hollow.

~PB

jjpsych wrote:

> OK, You many of you might be doing this already, but I never liked how easy the BBT2 can slip out
> of a BB cup during an install or removal. (Esp. with BB's that are being difficult) So, I get a
> 5/16"x24 bolt about 2.5" long, a 5/16" washer, and bolt the tool to the bb spindle. Then, I slip a
> 1 1/4" deep-well socket over the tool/BB assembly, attach a 1/2" drive breaker bar or torque
> wrench (depending if it's an instal or a removal) and voila.....
>
> Jay
What's with the 5/16x24??

Crank spindles are threaded m8x1.0, which is the thread of a cheap nutted front axle, available free
wherever dead wheels are found.

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

pbiggmellon{remove_fruit}s2000@onetel.net.uk schreef ...
> drewski wrote:
> > Jjpsych wrote:
> > > OK, You many of you might be doing this already, but I never
> > liked how > easy the BBT2 can slip out of a BB cup during an install or removal. > (Esp. with
> > BB's that are being difficult) So, I get a > 5/16"x24 bolt about 2.5" long, a 5/16" washer,
> > and bolt the tool to the > bb spindle. Then, I slip a 1
> > > 6/4" deep-well socket over the tool/BB assembly, attach a 1/2"
> > drive > breaker bar or torque wrench (depending if it's an instal or a > removal) and
> > voila.....
>
> > i just use a QR Skewer through the BB spindle and a big crescent wrench.
>
> Not all BB spindles are hollow.

In that case, find a long enough bolt that fits the crankbolt's threads and use this to keep the
tool in place.

--
Regards, Marten

jipsych-<< but I never liked how easy the BBT2 can slip out of a BB cup during an install or
removal. (Esp. with BB's that are being difficult) So, I get a 5/16"x24 bolt about 2.5" long, a
5/16" washer, and bolt the tool to the bb spindle. Then, I slip a 1 1/4" deep-well socket over the
tool/BB assembly, attach a 1/2" drive breaker bar or torque wrench (depending if it's an instal or a
removal) and voila.....
>><BR><BR>

Otherwise known as a Stein Tool...

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

A Muzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote in message
> What's with the 5/16x24??
>
> Crank spindles are threaded m8x1.0, which is the thread of a cheap nutted front axle, available
> free wherever dead wheels are found.

also available in various convenient sizes from home depot type places (50cents or so a pop), and
some older stem wedge bolts.

anthony

Marten Hoffmann wrote:

>> Not all BB spindles are hollow.
>
> In that case, find a long enough bolt that fits the crankbolt's threads and use this to keep the
> tool in place.

Good idea (for when I can't use my Tacx tool which has a built-in bolt).

Can you remind me of the bolt diameter/thread for Shimano UN73? Mwhat?

Thanks.

~PB

Pete Biggs wrote:
> Can you remind me of the bolt diameter/thread for Shimano UN73? Mwhat?

Actually I'd need the bolt for a different BB (the non-hollow one I'm replacing with the UN73) - but
I guess it's a standard thread used in most/all BBs.

~PB

A Muzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:

> What's with the 5/16x24??
>
> Crank spindles are threaded m8x1.0, which is the thread of a cheap nutted front axle, available
> free wherever dead wheels are found.

Ditto your sentiments about bodging a UNF 5/16" screw into a metric fine 8mm thread. However, I
havent seen an axle that skinny on a front wheel less than one million years old. And I think the
skinny old axles I've come across were 5/16"!

is M8x1.0 a kidbike axle size or what?

Chalo Colina

> A Muzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
>>What's with the 5/16x24?? Crank spindles are threaded m8x1.0, which is the thread of a cheap
>>nutted front axle, available free wherever dead wheels are found.

Chalo wrote:
> Ditto your sentiments about bodging a UNF 5/16" screw into a metric fine 8mm thread. However, I
> havent seen an axle that skinny on a front wheel less than one million years old. And I think the
> skinny old axles I've come across were 5/16"!
>
> is M8x1.0 a kidbike axle size or what?

That was traditionally the standard nutted front axle.

When we say "standard' there are lots of exceptions- mountain bikes have moved to a larger size, USA
Huffys used both m8x1 and American coarse thread axles and of course British Raleighs were a finer
Whitworth thread.

But we still stock and sell plenty of m8x1 axle sets and that'e the axle supplied in replacement
wheels for 27x1-1/4 and 26x1-3/8 even now.

BTW your intuition is pretty good on "kids's bikes". I just looked and 20" bikes for 5 year olds are
m8x1 fronts. Anything intended for jumping is 10mm or 14mm.
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

A Muzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote in message news:<vsohdlr0q6qt98@corp.supernews.com>...
> jjpsych wrote:
>
> > OK, You many of you might be doing this already, but I never liked how easy the BBT2 can slip
> > out of a BB cup during an install or removal. (Esp. with BB's that are being difficult) So, I
> > get a 5/16"x24 bolt about 2.5" long, a 5/16" washer, and bolt the tool to the bb spindle. Then,
> > I slip a 1 1/4" deep-well socket over the tool/BB assembly, attach a 1/2" drive breaker bar or
> > torque wrench (depending if it's an instal or a removal) and voila.....
> >
> > Jay
> What's with the 5/16x24??
>
> Crank spindles are threaded m8x1.0, which is the thread of a cheap nutted front axle, available
> free wherever dead wheels are found.

My apologies, and you are correct, I was using a metric bolt, (for this, feel free to flame me )

Jay