single or double bolt seat post clamp? - Page 2

Unicaw89 wrote:
> kinda pricey for a clamp...But I just dont know what size a koxx frame
> is I remember they are a lil bigger than kh cause you have to shim them
> for the same size post...

But worth it! I had salsa but this one blows it away. You need to use a
caliper and measure the O.D. of the seat tube. Then order accordingly.
Me and lots of local Muni guys use this QR clamp. I'm always changing
the seat height, depending on whether I'm climbing, bombing the DH or
doing tech stuff, and it would be highly inconvenient and time
consuming to have to use an allen wrench each time.


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Prob is all k1 unis are shimed,,,


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Unicaw89

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Spencer Hochberg wrote:
> If the sun came out at night id be nocturnal....
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My Torker LX has two small allen-wrench bolts. We've twisted the seat
on it a few times. I think it's not a matter of two bolts versus one,
it's a matter of well-designed versus poorly designed. (I'd say the LX
ranks so-so on that feature).

A pet peeve here: Why the heck do they make it where the seat can even
rotate in the first place? Is there somebody somewhere that NEEDS the
seat at a 45 degree angle and they felt the need to accommodate them?


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agentQ wrote:
> I feel the opposite. And when you do strip a single bolt it is useless.
> A double bolt clamp, if you do happen to strip one set of threads, you
> still have another.



I agree, a stripped double it more useful than a stripped single bolt.

BUT, my point was that double bolts strip EASIER than single bolts.


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HAhahaha! how would you like them to fix that one. Use the old shwinn
style posts


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Unicaw89

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Spencer Hochberg wrote:
> If the sun came out at night id be nocturnal....
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StephenH wrote:
>
> A pet peeve here: Why the heck do they make it where the seat can even
> rotate in the first place? Is there somebody somewhere that NEEDS the
> seat at a 45 degree angle and they felt the need to accommodate them?



Every try removing a tight or stuck seatpost without twisting it?


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Now what I would love is a frame and seatpost with a line down the
centre, so that I can make sure my seat is on straight!


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any thoughts on the new animal single clamp?
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1206


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jhill wrote:
> Now what I would love is a frame and seatpost with a line down the
> centre, so that I can make sure my seat is on straight!



Get it nice and straight, ride it for awhile to make sure, and them
mark it with a sharpie.


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Real men unicycle with slightly crooked seats.


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Joe "Hodgekins" wrote:
> Oh... they don't kick bricks, do they?
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MuniAddict wrote:
> I'm always changing the seat height, depending on whether I'm climbing,
> bombing the DH or doing tech stuff, and it would be highly
> inconvenient and time consuming to have to use an allen wrench each
> time.

Those look fascinating; I'm tempted to order one...


StephenH wrote:
> Why the heck do they make it where the seat can even rotate in the first
> place? Is there somebody somewhere that NEEDS the seat at a 45 degree
> angle and they felt the need to accommodate them?

No, that's a perfectly reasonable question. On a bike, twisting forces
applied to the seat are minimal compared to what we do to a unicycle.
Maybe a different method would make more sense.

But not the Schwinn/Semcycle method, which only gives you 1" increments
of adjustment. For those of you that didn't "grow up" with one, can you
imagine only 1" adjustments? Also, some older (low-end) unicycles used
a set screw, which would poke into the seat post and hold it in place.
But that's more to do with the use of cheap components than an
inability to hold a seat post straight.

The problem with using a non-tubular post would be when it gets stuck
in there. Most materials have a tendency to bind when they fit tightly
together, so I'd hate to have my 5-sided post be un-moveable and
un-twistable. Better to just use a clamp that works.

But here's an idea. You know how your seat tube has that little slot in
the back? What if there were a little slot in the post as well, and you
had a little insert device that you stuck in there, that would snap on
so it wouldn't fall out, and keep the two slots lined up? Not sure what
having a slot (or hole) in the post would do to strength or tightness,
but it could be a simple method of preventing twist.

Though I think this is less about the clamp and more about the
materials in your frame and post, and how well they fit together in the
first place. Chromed steel posts in steel frames seem to be the most
twist-prone. But the alloy posts in my aluminum Wilder MUni frame seem
to stay in place very nicely, with a lightweight, single-bolt clamp.
Never had a problem there.

I have this beautiful, red Koxx-One seat clamp, brand new, that doesn't
seem to fit any of the unicycles I would use it on. I don't know the
size, but I would guess Koxx size...


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would a koxx-one seat clamp fit on my nimbus isis trials?
if not i will probably just get the animal clamp from dans com because
thats where i am getting my pedals from.


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unikid132

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http://tinyurl.com/33a5jn


Theres the sum of all your problems.

Oh yeah, for all the people that awe and oogle over profile stuff...
there seat post clamps arent that great.


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MuniAddict wrote:
> I'm always changing the seat height, and it would be highly inconvenient
> and time consuming to have to use an allen wrench each time.


I change my seat height with an allen wrench and it takes all of 30
seconds or so. Unless you're paying for your trail use by the minute,
I don't see how this could be such a major issue.

If you keep the wrench easily accessible (mine's stashed in a small
pouch on one of my Camelbak's cross-straps) then it's no pain at all.


johnfoss wrote:
> Chromed steel posts in steel frames seem to be the most twist-prone.


Are you referring to the smooth posts or the knurled ones? I doubt a
knurled post would twist very easily.


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maestro8 wrote:
> I change my seat height with an allen wrench and it takes all of 30
> seconds or so.

It takes me 30 seconds to dig my damn allen tool out of the bottom of my
butt bag. No matter where you put it, the next time you go in there
it's under everything else.



> Are you referring to the smooth posts or the knurled ones? I doubt a
> knurled post would twist very easily.

They have knurled seat posts for unicycles? Most of my twist problems
were from my earlier years of riding, when I was learning lots of
tricks and using bad technique. In those days, all the unicycles tended
to have smooth chrome posts. They even twisted easily in a rusty seat
tube! It didn't help that the clamps that came with the Miyata
unicycles (the high-end stuff of the time), which were welded on, just
weren't that strong. I crushed a few, and finally just cut them off,
extended the slot and lived with a shorter seat tube.


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