![]() |
View
New Forum Topics Today's Forum Topics Set as homepage |
|
|||||||
Welcome to CyclingForums.com You are currently viewing our website as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions. You will have to register before you can post to this thread. By joining our free online community you will have access to post new topics, communicate privately with other cyclingforums.com members (PM), respond to polls, upload photos and access other special features like product reviews and classifieds. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
|
#17 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Kirksville, Mo.
Posts: 268
|
Getting back to the subject of this thread, I have some questions for anyone EXPERIENCED with vacuum bagging of composite lay-ups.
I have a small diaphragm-type vacuum pump that I plan to use. I selected it over a rotary vane type pump for quiet operation and apparently adequate vacuum draw (22 inHg). The capacity is small, but for small stuff like bike frames I think it will be OK. Questions: 1) does the pump need to run continuously or can it be turned off after the air has been drawn from the bag? 2) do I need to use a vapor/fume trap at the input side of the pump to protect it from epoxy vapors or is it generally not a problem? 3) what other little pneumatic stuff should I accumulate- valves? gauges, regulators, etc.? 4) can a pressure regulator be used in reverse to regulate vacuum? 5) I will try using a blue foam core at least initially. How does that stuff hold up under vacuum, or does it? Finally, I was originally thinking that summer would be a better time to work on this stuff, but then I realized that the epoxy won't cure very quickly in cold temperatures, giving more working time. I plan to make a curing "oven" from either blue foam or cardboard boxes and put a heater inside. I figure once the lay-up is done and the bag pumped down and sealed properly I can then put it into the oven to cure. Is this a reasonable approach or am I missing something? That's all for now... Thanks, TD
__________________
"When I was a child, I spake as a child, I understood as a child, I thought as a child: but when I became a man, I put away childish things." |
|
|
|
|
|
#19 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 128
|
Tyler asked for "EXPERIENCED" help Johnny Nocome... that clearly disqualifies you.
Try these links Tyler: Jim Scozzafava - www.jjscozzi.com/ (Excellent builder's resource) Damon Rinard - http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/ Portland John http://homepage.mac.com/john4bho/ Benoit - http://users.skynet.be/benoit.dery/ Last edited by PaPa : 26-11.-2004 at 09:46 AM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#21 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 2
|
Hi tyler
I not going to say I am an expert,but I have built Quite a few carbon bikes. (The mountain bikes I have made have been in races) All made with molds. The proces is pretty simple, Design your bike make your mold plug, cast reinfoced plaster around to make the mold (reinforced plaster of paris with fiberglass window screen) I can give you more detail If you like. I then bladder mold with bicycle tubes they are cheap and usually you can get old ones at the bike shop for free. Some times I use vacume also my pump pulls about 27" and works well. If you bag over foam crushing wont be a problem as long as you dont have hollow area's, atmosperic pressure on average is 14.7 pounds per square inch at sea level.I use lightweight clear bags from the hardware store. My last recumbent frame I made the mold With a cnc router but not everybody has acces to one. It sure saved me a lot of time. If you would like to see some of my bikes follow this link. http://www.harnettcycles.com/index.html Then click the bike website button on the right |
|
|
|