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#31 |
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"Zog The Undeniable" <hrothgar19@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:41d8362a.0@entanet... > JLB wrote: > >> "There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot >> make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who >> consider price only are this man's lawful prey." - John Ruskin > > Ruskin goes on..."It is unwise to pay too much, but it is also unwise to > pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money, that is > all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything because the > thing you bought is incapable of doing the thing you bought it to do. > Isn't this where the 'Sale of Goods Act' comes in? ;-) I have just ordered a Harlem Nimbus bike, from Bid-Up.TV, for the princely sum of £65.00 + p&p. This is a hardtail bike, with an aluminium frame, and 18 speed Shimano gears. Like others have mentioned, I did not want to spend £300 - £400 on a bike, only to find that I was not going to use it after a couple of weeks. If I do take to cycling, I can always upgrade to a better bike later, having the experience then to make a more informed decision as to my needs, and I could probably sell the Harlem for nearly as much as I paid for it. This to me, seems the most cost effective way to go, but obviously others have different views. I have a friend who has been into cycling for years, (riding quality bikes), and he is going to road test the bike for me when it arrives, so I will report back later and let the group know his comments, good or bad, including the weight of the bike, which they do not state on the website. |
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#32 |
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in message <cr91tl$its$1$8300dec7@news.demon.co.uk>, JLB
('JLB@bigbad.demon.co.uk') wrote: > Not Responding wrote: >> Martin Wilson wrote: >>> As an alternative view to many here. I have to say I bought a cheap >>> bike (no suspension) for £60 and I've been very happy with it. [snip] >>> >>> That isn't a recommendation for a cheap bike I might add but there >>> certainly not as bad as some people make out here. >> >> Good point. Most people here have ridden quality bikes and have seen >> the world of difference that an extra £150 budget makes. We're >> forgetting that even a crap bike is still a bike. > > I'm not disagreeing, since Martin's experience speaks for itself. Yet > it is still the fact that an astonishing number of bikes are bought > each year in the UK, and quite a few obviously get little or no use; > someone who buys a cheap bike and is quickly disillusioned with its > performance and its mechanical inadequacies, to the point where they > abandon it, has not saved money at all. They have wasted every penny > they have spent. I see a lot of truly grotty bikes, and I have two worries about them. The first is that a good few of them are actively unsafe, with components (brakes and frames, chiefly) which will and do fail under load. The second is bikes which are so badly made, so heavy, so unpleasant to use that they will put people off not just riding that particular bike but riding bikes at all. Admittedly the second is more common than the first, but both are bad. -- simon@jasmine.org.uk (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/ ;; I'll have a proper rant later, when I get the time. |
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#33 |
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>Im mechanically minded and prepared to repair/change parts. I >guess whatever I buy it'll be a mistake, a cheap bike that falls apart, >or a good bike unused cos Ive lost the urge to cycle ! > >Hmmm. > I think the main warning above all others with regard cheap bikes is suspension. Cheap suspension doesn't work well or last very long so is best avoided. A more expensive bike tends to be a lighter bike and a lighter bike means you can go faster and further with the same amount of energy therefore making cycling more enjoyable. Many people in this forum believe that the more expensive bikes as well as being lighter are also stronger because the components are of higher quality. Thats not something I believe universally. I don't believe a very low cost aluminium frame is as strong or has the lifespan of a low cost steel frame. One recommendation I would make is consider a Giant brand bike. They tend to be excellent value and very well made with good components for their price. As they are a taiwanese brand you are effectively dealing much more directly with the manufacturer than most other brands. A typical american brand bike has a taiwanese frame which is shipped to america where the bike is assembled with foreign made support components and then shipped over here. This adds massively to costs with extra transport and more than one company getting profit from the sale of the bike. Also american firms spend more on pr/advertising on relatively much lower sales numbers. Its well known that american bike brands use low cost imports to subsidise manufacture of high end american made models. I.e. they make a lot more money from there bottom end imported bikes than those produced in their small scale factories that sell at premium prices. They are basically using top end american made products to create brand desire and respect but selling the vast majority low cost imports with a considerable markup. Here is a web page from idealbike in taiwan and who they make frames for; http://www.idealbike.com.tw/image/logo.html As you can see they make frames for not only the cheap Apollo (halfords) type brands but some fairly respected brands. Notice no Cannondale there. All Cannondales are assembled in america with american made frames. They are the only large scale bike manufacturer in the usa. If you buy a Giant or a Cannondale you can't go far wrong for your money. Its more difficult with other brands to know exactly what your getting. |
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#34 |
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>Isn't this where the 'Sale of Goods Act' comes in? ;-) > >I have just ordered a Harlem Nimbus bike, from Bid-Up.TV, for the princely >sum of £65.00 + p&p. This is a hardtail bike, with an aluminium frame, and >18 speed Shimano gears. Like others have mentioned, I did not want to spend >£300 - £400 on a bike, only to find that I was not going to use it after a >couple of weeks. If I do take to cycling, I can always upgrade to a better >bike later, having the experience then to make a more informed decision as >to my needs, and I could probably sell the Harlem for nearly as much as I >paid for it. This to me, seems the most cost effective way to go, but >obviously others have different views. > >I have a friend who has been into cycling for years, (riding quality bikes), >and he is going to road test the bike for me when it arrives, so I will >report back later and let the group know his comments, good or bad, >including the weight of the bike, which they do not state on the website. > He won't be road testing it when it arrives because you'll be assembling it I suspect. Normally they come about 80% assembled and you might have to put on the front wheel, handlebars, pedals and turn round and tighten a few things. The gears and brakes might need adjustment too. Probably worth taking the chain off the chainset and spinning it to make sure the BB is working ok. Same with the wheels. Spin the front wheel and test for play and smoothness. Then get out the oil can. Allow yourself a couple of hours to assemble, adjust, check and oil. Hope you like it. |
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#35 |
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> >I see a lot of truly grotty bikes, and I have two worries about them. > >The first is that a good few of them are actively unsafe, with >components (brakes and frames, chiefly) which will and do fail under >load. > >The second is bikes which are so badly made, so heavy, so unpleasant to >use that they will put people off not just riding that particular bike >but riding bikes at all. > >Admittedly the second is more common than the first, but both are bad. What would you prefer though, given a choice between a cheap new bike or no bike at all which is the decision many would make. If their looking at this forum their going to see; 1) Buy a more expensive bike which equates to not buying one if you don't have the money. 2) Buy a secondhand bike which equates to not buying one as many people don't want a secondhand bike and wouldn't know how to select a good one. 3) Buy a cheap bike but they won't buy one because their rubbish. Wouldn't it be better to say buy a cheap bike but be warned it won't perform as well as a more expensive model and if your at all interested in cycling upgrade when funds are there. I think their needs to be a usenet group called 'uk.rec.cycling.cheap' then perhaps this one could be called 'uk.rec.cycling.brandsnobs' and it would all be sorted. |
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#36 |
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"Martin Wilson" <ebay1@martin66.screaming.net> wrote in message news:vigjt01mgclivihabbi8e5qf6odc7opu55@4ax.com... > >>Isn't this where the 'Sale of Goods Act' comes in? ;-) >> >>I have just ordered a Harlem Nimbus bike, from Bid-Up.TV, for the princely >>sum of £65.00 + p&p. This is a hardtail bike, with an aluminium frame, and >>18 speed Shimano gears. Like others have mentioned, I did not want to >>spend >>£300 - £400 on a bike, only to find that I was not going to use it after a >>couple of weeks. If I do take to cycling, I can always upgrade to a better >>bike later, having the experience then to make a more informed decision as >>to my needs, and I could probably sell the Harlem for nearly as much as I >>paid for it. This to me, seems the most cost effective way to go, but >>obviously others have different views. >> >>I have a friend who has been into cycling for years, (riding quality >>bikes), >>and he is going to road test the bike for me when it arrives, so I will >>report back later and let the group know his comments, good or bad, >>including the weight of the bike, which they do not state on the website. >> > > He won't be road testing it when it arrives because you'll be > assembling it I suspect. Normally they come about 80% assembled and > you might have to put on the front wheel, handlebars, pedals and turn > round and tighten a few things. The gears and brakes might need > adjustment too. Probably worth taking the chain off the chainset and > spinning it to make sure the BB is working ok. Same with the wheels. > Spin the front wheel and test for play and smoothness. Then get out > the oil can. Allow yourself a couple of hours to assemble, adjust, > check and oil. > > Hope you like it. Thanks Martin, I am pretty competent with mechanics, (after being in the service industry for 40 years), so assembly should not be a problem. The bike will be checked thoroughly after full assembly, and before riding, by both me and my biking friend, if any serious problems are evident, it will be returned. I am not expecting a Rolls Royce bike for £65.00, but I am expecting it to be fit for the purpose it was intended. I have been monitoring the prices that the Nimbus model has fetched in the auctions, and they have sold for as low as £59.00, and as high as £113.00. The £113.00 was the starting bid on one auction, they had 5 bikes for sale, and I thought there is no way they are going to sell at that price, when others have sold for £59.00, but two bidders paid the £113.00. :-) |
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#37 |
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Martin Wilson wrote:
> > What would you prefer though, given a choice between a cheap new bike > or no bike at all which is the decision many would make. If their > looking at this forum their going to see; > > 1) Buy a more expensive bike which equates to not buying one if you > don't have the money. > > 2) Buy a secondhand bike which equates to not buying one as many > people don't want a secondhand bike and wouldn't know how to select a > good one. > > 3) Buy a cheap bike but they won't buy one because their rubbish. > > Wouldn't it be better to say buy a cheap bike but be warned it won't > perform as well as a more expensive model and if your at all > interested in cycling upgrade when funds are there. > > I think their needs to be a usenet group called 'uk.rec.cycling.cheap' > then perhaps this one could be called 'uk.rec.cycling.brandsnobs' and > it would all be sorted. What's wrong with a second hand bike? Lots of people happily buy second hand cars to get a better quality car at a price they can afford so why be sniffy about buying a second hand bike? Tony |
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#38 |
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Martin Wilson wrote:
> I think their needs to be a usenet group called 'uk.rec.cycling.cheap' > then perhaps this one could be called 'uk.rec.cycling.brandsnobs' and > it would all be sorted. And perhaps there should also be uk.rec.cycling.newbie-with-a-chip-on-his-shoulder. James -- If I have seen further than others, it is by treading on the toes of giants. http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/ |
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#39 |
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"Tony Raven" <junk@raven-family.com> wrote in message news:33u2etF457epqU1@individual.net... > > What's wrong with a second hand bike? Lots of people happily buy second > hand cars to get a better quality car at a price they can afford so why be > sniffy about buying a second hand bike? > There is nothing wrong with buying a second hand bike, the problem is knowing what to look for when buying one. A newbie is hardly likely to know what to look for, and could end up paying more for a second hand bike than its original cost, just because the person selling it has overstated its build quality etc.. Perhaps there should be a Parkers Guide for bikes, like there is for cars. |
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#40 |
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>Thanks Martin, I am pretty competent with mechanics, (after being in the >service industry for 40 years), so assembly should not be a problem. The >bike will be checked thoroughly after full assembly, and before riding, by >both me and my biking friend, if any serious problems are evident, it will >be returned. I am not expecting a Rolls Royce bike for £65.00, but I am >expecting it to be fit for the purpose it was intended. I have been >monitoring the prices that the Nimbus model has fetched in the auctions, and >they have sold for as low as £59.00, and as high as £113.00. The £113.00 was >the starting bid on one auction, they had 5 bikes for sale, and I thought >there is no way they are going to sell at that price, when others have sold >for £59.00, but two bidders paid the £113.00. :-) > You sound pretty clued up. I doubt if you'll have any real problems. Once you've given the bike an mot remember to spend time adjusting it to fit your body. Best to start with the saddle fairly low while you get the hang of balancing and cornering etc then increase the saddle height as you get more confident. Also handlebar height and tilt might need to be changed to suit you. It'll probably take you weeks to get it just right. |
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#41 |
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GwG wrote:
> "Tony Raven" <junk@raven-family.com> wrote in message > news:33u2etF457epqU1@individual.net... > >>What's wrong with a second hand bike? Lots of people happily buy second >>hand cars to get a better quality car at a price they can afford so why be >>sniffy about buying a second hand bike? >> > > > There is nothing wrong with buying a second hand bike, the problem is > knowing what to look for when buying one. > A newbie is hardly likely to know what to look for, and could end up paying > more for a second hand bike than its original cost, just because the person > selling it has overstated its build quality etc.. Perhaps there should be a > Parkers Guide for bikes, like there is for cars. > > I'm sure you will find folks here more than helpful if you wanted to ask questions about what to look for, price etc. Most of us have had dealings with cheap sub £100 bikes and know the grief they represent which is why the advice was offered on second hand ones. Tony |
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#42 |
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"Tony Raven" <junk@raven-family.com> wrote in message news:33v1u9F440iciU1@individual.net... > GwG wrote: >> "Tony Raven" <junk@raven-family.com> wrote in message >> news:33u2etF457epqU1@individual.net... >> >>>What's wrong with a second hand bike? Lots of people happily buy second >>>hand cars to get a better quality car at a price they can afford so why >>>be sniffy about buying a second hand bike? >> >> There is nothing wrong with buying a second hand bike, the problem is >> knowing what to look for when buying one. >> A newbie is hardly likely to know what to look for, and could end up >> paying more for a second hand bike than its original cost, just because >> the person selling it has overstated its build quality etc.. Perhaps >> there should be a Parkers Guide for bikes, like there is for cars. > > I'm sure you will find folks here more than helpful if you wanted to ask > questions about what to look for, price etc. Most of us have had dealings > with cheap sub £100 bikes and know the grief they represent which is why > the advice was offered on second hand ones. > I have already been helped a lot from the comments in this group, so thanks to you all, and I have printed out Simon Brooke's advice earlier in this thread on what to look for when buying second hand, so that it is readily available if the Harlem Nimbus turns out to live up to the expectations ;-) But just to throw a spanner in the spokes with a rhetorical question, will the people who paid £113.00 for the Nimbus, (i.e. paid above £100), get a better bike than those who paid £59.00 for it. ;-) |
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#43 |
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On 4/1/05 9:45 am, in article 33v70hF455ejcU1@individual.net, "GwG"
<nothiswontworkeither@guess.uk.co> wrote: > But just to throw a spanner in the spokes with a rhetorical question, will > the people who paid £113.00 for the Nimbus, (i.e. paid above £100), get a > better bike than those who paid £59.00 for it. ;-) Of course ;-) The more you pay for something, the better it is. Everyone knows that spending lots of money on that superlight component will make the bike so much better.. It's Shiny Toy Syndrome. ...d |
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#44 |
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GwG wrote:
> > I have already been helped a lot from the comments in this group, so thanks > to you all, and I have printed out Simon Brooke's advice earlier in this > thread on what to look for when buying second hand, so that it is readily > available if the Harlem Nimbus turns out to live up to the expectations ;-) > But just to throw a spanner in the spokes with a rhetorical question, will > the people who paid £113.00 for the Nimbus, (i.e. paid above £100), get a > better bike than those who paid £59.00 for it. ;-) > > Nope but I also doubt its worth anything like its £299 "guide price". Whether its true value is £59, £113 or something else I wouldn't care to guess. Tony |
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#45 |
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>What would you prefer though, given a choice between a cheap new bike
>or no bike at all which is the decision many would make. If their >looking at this forum their going to see; The problem with too many *cheap* bikes is that they are indeed total crap, badly made, badly put together and with brakes that hardly work. In this case cheap does not equal good value - indeed they are a positive waste of money, which when financial resources are limited, is a seriously bad thing. The ideal is to shop around for a good value bike. This takes a bit of time on the part of the purchaer. Perhaps it's just me, but before I part with any dosh for something largeish I tend to find out about the thing I hope to buy first.. Then again, I doubt I'm the only one ;-) >1) Buy a more expensive bike which equates to not buying one if you >don't have the money. Well that goes for anything being purchased, not just bikes. You don't have to part with loads of cash if you don't want to/can't but it does mean being prepared to find out about what's on offer to avoid wasting the old hard-earned toonas. >2) Buy a secondhand bike which equates to not buying one as many >people don't want a secondhand bike and wouldn't know how to select a >good one. Guffaw. If they are so put off something second-hand, that's their problem. Get something halfway decent but second-hand or something new that's crap... difficult choice there ;-) >3) Buy a cheap bike but they won't buy one because their rubbish. Well it's saved them wasting their money. >Wouldn't it be better to say buy a cheap bike but be warned it won't >perform as well as a more expensive model and if your at all >interested in cycling upgrade when funds are there. I'd say research what you want a bike for - start reading bike mags to find out what's available - then budget & go for the best sepc you can afford, bearing in mind cheap doesn't always equal good value. >I think their needs to be a usenet group called 'uk.rec.cycling.cheap' >then perhaps this one could be called 'uk.rec.cycling.brandsnobs' and >it would all be sorted. Or would you prefer to be lied to and told that a £69.99 full-sus jobbie from Toys R Us is as good as a more expensive but better put together bike, with examples given or told the truth that in life you don't get something for nothing? You don't have to spend thousands to get a decent bike, but you won't get a decent one for seventy squid from the supermarket either. Cheers, helen s --This is an invalid email address to avoid spam-- to get correct one remove fame & fortune h*$el*$$e*nd**$o$ts**i*$*$m*m$o*n*s@$*a$o*l.c**$om$ --Due to financial crisis the light at the end of the tunnel is switched off-- |
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