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#16 |
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Guest
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Brian Innes <brianinnes81@yahoo.co.uk> of wrote:
>Not sure about going the whole hog with double sided spds, I'd rather have >single sided spds, which will give me the choice of footwear, cycling >shoes or walking boots for very very wet / muddy conditions or a cycling >/ hiking trip. Single sided mean you have to fiddle around finding which side of the pedal you have and doing that annoying flip, whether using your SPDs or not. I find this *very* annoying. Especially if you are cycling on something less smooth than roads - there's never a flat easy bit to coast on while doing the flip. Instead get the M424 combination pedals Paul recommended. Just jump on and ride, whether with SPDs or ordinary shoes. The platform will support an ordinary shoe fine for a while. It bites into the foot a bit eventually; I use mine without SPDs for up to half an hour. You can get boot style shoes with clips. -- A great many people think they are thinking when they are merely rearranging their prejudices. - William James Steph Peters delete invalid from incm@sandbenders.demon.co.uk.invalid Tatting, lace & stitching page <http://www.sandbenders.demon.co.uk/index.htm> |
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#17 |
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In news:35h7mhF4jjnhjU3@individual.net,
Tony Raven <junk@raven-family.com> typed: > My experience, for SPD stick with Shimano. They work whereas some of > the lookalikes don't very well. My mountain bike has some excellent Ritchey ones which are old, but look exactly like these Wellgo WPD801 ones. http://www.wiggle.co.uk/?ProductID=5360006644 I've been a lot happier with these than my Shimano ones on the other bike. But the Shimanos are more of a known quantity, I agree. A |
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#18 |
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"Brian Innes" <brianinnes81@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message news an.2005.01.23.16.35.25.772986@yahoo.co.uk...> Not sure about going the whole hog with double sided spds, I'd rather have > single sided spds, which will give me the choice of footwear, cycling > shoes or walking boots for very very wet / muddy conditions or a cycling > / hiking trip. I've been using double side Shimano spds for over 12 years quite happily, notwithstanding mud clogging on the older versions. I bought a pair of single sided A515's for a road bike, mistake! They're a real ball-ache to flip and engage, far more so than the Looks I've used, just what you don't want when trying to make smart progress from a road junction for instance. I must say I like Jon Seniors idea of creating your own platform. Pete |
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#19 |
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Brian wrote:
> I currently have a pair of Specialized Taho MTB shoes according to the > Specialized website they have a 2 bolt spd cleat pattern so I assume any > spd pedal would work? Should do, but personally I prefer (and suggest) the non-SPD Time ATAC family. The cleats will go in the same shoes as SPuD cleats so that's not a worry. While at the CTCS AGM on Saturday someone looking over the 8 Freight noticed my ATACs and said he used them too as he found them altogether better than SPuDs: they're simpler, no faffing about with tension adjustment, a cleaner design and less susceptible to rattling cleats as they get worn, you can get in to them at any point along the bar, rather than a single spot and they have proper lateral float too (SPuDs only have rotational float, which ATACs still do at least as well). Cost a little more, but IMHO a better product. If you want a pedal you can use in Other Shoes they now do a version with an extended platform, but it still has a mech on both sides. Pete. -- Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net p.j.clinch@dundee.ac.uk http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/ |
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#20 |
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Guest
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Steph Peters wrote:
> Single sided mean you have to fiddle around finding which side of the > pedal you have and doing that annoying flip, whether using your SPDs > or not. I find this *very* annoying. Especially if you are cycling > on something less smooth than roads - there's never a flat easy bit > to coast on while doing the flip. It's actually trivially easy if you have the technique, and you do not have to coast. Firstly, if your cleated foot finds the flat side of the pedal it is not an emergency. You can cycle quite happily like this for as long as you need to - you're just not clipped in. When you're ready to change sides you don't have to flip or fiddle at all. Simply take your foot off the pedal at the bottom of the stroke and put it back on at the top. Do not bother looking down or trying to feel for the clip. The pedal will be the right way round. Click in and ride away. -- Dave... |
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#21 |
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Peter B wrote:
> I've been using double side Shimano spds for over 12 years quite > happily, notwithstanding mud clogging on the older versions. I > bought a pair of single sided A515's for a road bike, mistake! > They're a real ball-ache to flip and engage, far more so than the > Looks I've used, just what you don't want when trying to make smart > progress from a road junction for instance. > They're a piece of cake. See my reply to Stpeh. -- Dave... |
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#22 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 80
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Like a previous poster, I must endorse the M424.
These are great. They can be used with ordinary shoes. They are good SPD's and.. You can uncleat for tricky situationa and they still function as oridnary pedals. Plus.. They're not too heavy. and finally and most importantly.. They look good too. |
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#23 |
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On 24 Jan 2005 06:20:03 -0800, "dkahn400" <dkahn400@yahoo.co.uk>
wrote: >> Single sided mean you have to fiddle around finding which side of the >> pedal you have and doing that annoying flip, whether using your SPDs >> or not. >It's actually trivially easy if you have the technique, and you do not >have to coast. Firstly, if your cleated foot finds the flat side of the >pedal it is not an emergency. You can cycle quite happily like this for >as long as you need to - you're just not clipped in. When you're ready >to change sides you don't have to flip or fiddle at all. Simply take >your foot off the pedal at the bottom of the stroke and put it back on >at the top. Do not bother looking down or trying to feel for the clip. >The pedal will be the right way round. Click in and ride away. They *are* a pain in the arse though if you are cycling in regular shoes or boots though, and your "off, and back on again" technique won't work then. The weighting of the pedals means that the cage side hangs under the pedal, so you need to faff about trying to flip them right side up when not wearing cycling shoes. -- Call me "Bob" "More oneness, less categories, Open hearts, no strategies" Email address is spam trapped, to reply directly remove the beverage. |
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#24 |
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Guest
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Thanks for all the replies.
I've just placed an order with chainreaction cycles for the Shimano M520 spds. Should be interesting cycling once I get these fitted! I'm hoping that the shoes that I have (Specialized Taho '05) will be OK with these pedals. Only way to know is to try them. Regards -- Brian |
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#25 |
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Call me Bob wrote:
> They *are* a pain in the arse though if you are cycling in regular > shoes or boots though, and your "off, and back on again" technique > won't work then. > > The weighting of the pedals means that the cage side hangs under the > pedal, so you need to faff about trying to flip them right side up > when not wearing cycling shoes. I don't find them difficult in ordinary shoes either. The same technique works fine for me. -- Dave... |
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#26 |
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In news:1106644312.580904.260600@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com,
dkahn400 <dkahn400@yahoo.co.uk> typed: > Call me Bob wrote: > >> They *are* a pain in the arse though if you are cycling in regular >> shoes or boots though, and your "off, and back on again" technique >> won't work then. >> >> The weighting of the pedals means that the cage side hangs under the >> pedal, so you need to faff about trying to flip them right side up >> when not wearing cycling shoes. > > I don't find them difficult in ordinary shoes either. The same > technique works fine for me. I imagine it depends how stiff the bearings in your pedal spindle are. A |
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#27 |
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Ambrose Nankivell wrote:
> In news:1106644312.580904.260600@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com, > dkahn400 <dkahn400@yahoo.co.uk> typed: > > Call me Bob wrote: > > > >> They *are* a pain in the arse though if you are cycling in regular > >> shoes or boots though, and your "off, and back on again" technique > >> won't work then. > >> > >> The weighting of the pedals means that the cage side hangs under the > >> pedal, so you need to faff about trying to flip them right side up > >> when not wearing cycling shoes. > > > > I don't find them difficult in ordinary shoes either. The same > > technique works fine for me. > > I imagine it depends how stiff the bearings in your pedal spindle are. Possibly, but my pedals spin freely. They are also reasonably well balanced and don't show a bias for hanging either side down. Are we talking the same model? Shimano M324. -- Dave... |
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#28 |
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Guest
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I wrote:
> Possibly, but my pedals spin freely. They are also reasonably well > balanced and don't show a bias for hanging either side down. Are we > talking the same model? Shimano M324. OK, humble pie time. I had an extra close look at the pedals on the way home tonight and tried a few experiments. Only having done about 8,000 miles on them I'm obviously not that familiar with them. Certainly only about 20 miles of that have been with non-cycling shoes. Contrary to what I said earlier the pedals /do/ have a bias. Left to their own devices they hang not quite vertically so that the clippy side is facing to the rear of the bike and the flat side to the front. The reason the foot off / foot on method works well with cleats is not because the pedals are stiff but because centrifugal force causes the heavier part of the pedal to move to the outside of the pedalling circle. The same method sometimes works when trying to get the flat side, but does not work reliably because this time centrifugal force is working against you. Bob the Builder is almost right, but the cage side is not really hanging under the pedal, but to the front. To engage it reliably I've discovered two methods. 1. Stop pedalling for a moment so the pedal finds its rest position, then put your foot toe-down in front of the pedal and flip it back. You don't have to look down or fiddle with it, it falls into place every time. 2. Use the foot on / foot off method, but instead of a normal pedal stroke back-pedal half a revolution with the engaged foot. Centrifugal force will now work in your favour and the pedal will come up with the flat side uppermost. -- Dave... Every time I see an adult on a bicycle, I no longer despair for the future of the human race. - H. G. Wells |
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