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#16 | |||
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Sweden
Posts: 849
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Do try to aim the replies to whom it concerns please. |
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#17 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Santa Fe, Argentina
Posts: 45
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Hi people,
I´m using an industrial chain lube based on molybdenum disulfide, it is a dry film that works excellent (for me). You can find this product in brands like Loctite or Molykote. Regards. Marcelo
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#18 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 52
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I wash my chain with the park chain tool and isopropyl alcohol. If it's VERY muddy, I use the hose first. The key is that you have to get the water out of the chain, otherwise it rusts. The alcohol displaces the water out of the chain and it dries rapidly. Then I hit it with Extreme Purple in prep for the next outing. This season has been nothing but dust. But it's important to get that out too. |
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#19 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 219
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On the first point... you change engine oil because as the engine runs the oil picks up carbon from combustion. If you don't change it the carbon will start to gunk up the insides of your engine and if left long enough will bring it to a halt. The oil never loses it's ability to lubricate. So in an application where tiny carbon nuggets don't matter because sand particles that are 100,000 times larger are scraping them off (with hunks of metal) faster than they can depost ... it's not a bad application.
I'm in the big ring for two reasons, I'm pretty fast and I live in an area that is basically flat. I don't know if this is just my imagination but for some reason the bike just feels like it rolls better in the big ring. And I generally spin at 90-105 rpm. Lastly, the XTR chainrings are high quality aluminum alloy and it's forged in a machine that stamps about 10 of them out every second. Probably cost after every cost is factored in about $3.00 to make. Let me put this into perspective for you; whats an XTR big ring weigh? 2 ounces? At the going rate for silver the XTR chainring would require about $40.00 in silver. Thats about a nickles worth of aluminum. If you think there is any quality difference different between an XTR big ring and an XT big ring aside from an 'R' and a bolt pattern that makes the two incompatible you're the biggest sucker I've talked with today. Quote:
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#20 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 219
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That is a great tip. I appriciate that. I think I'll grab some of that and try it out.
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#21 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Plymouth MA
Posts: 219
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Household 3-in-one oil, available at most hardware stores, works wonders for me as a chain lube - I have used it for many years with no problems.... Falling short of that, clean, unused motor oil will work just as well if not better, don't use used motor oil - if it splatters onto your skin repeatedly and is left on too long it can cause skin cancer.... |
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#22 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 2
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Hi,
This is my first post. Currently I use finish line teflon plus dry lube, and a finish line degreaser. My question is it best to use dry or wet lubes. I figured dry lubes wouldnt pick up as much dirt? One time when I was out of lube I tried some mobile one synthetic engine oil(new, not used), and that seemed to work pretty good, but I wasnt sure if long term if that was a good idea. It didnt seem to attract alot od dirt though. |
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#23 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 776
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