Polar CS600 Power - First on the Block...

Tom Anhalt

Are you getting a "flash" from the cadence trigger? No cadence signal, no power calculation.

iPAQsRock

Tom

Thanks a bunch! I moved the paddle over a fraction of an inch toward the crank and that seemed to do the trick. Seems like that magnet is not very powerful. Thanks again!

goodboyr

You might want to remove all devices, relearn the power module, and make sure Power and cadence are checked on the bike settings on the cs600. Sometimes removing all devices first before relearning helps. Make sure there are no other power sensors or CS600's nearby. Other than that, I'm stumped.

goodboyr

LOL. Replied before reading all posts!!! Duhhhhh.

iPAQsRock

Thanks, appreciate the help goodboyr. Before I moved the power module closer to the crank, I tried just that, I deleted all the pairings and had them all re-learned to no avail.

Tom Anhalt

No problem. Yep...the facts that 1.) it's not very strong and 2.) the mount isn't too secure either are the main reasons I HIGHLY recommend finding a stronger "rare earth" style magnet to replace it.

Something like these "rod" magnets should work pretty well.

http://www.rare-earth-magnets.com/S...egoryID-34.html

You want to get the largest diameter, longest rod that you think will work. Align the magnet so that the N-S axis is parallel to the PM case (i.e. in line with the crank arm). I glue mine in place with simple DAP contact cement, although the ones I use are actually rectangular (a lucky "salvage" of some scrap magnets from my work). That seems to work pretty well on both aluminum and carbon crank arms. Experiment with different mountings and I'm sure you'll find something pretty secure.

eugkimj

I hate to say it, but I may be switching back to my Garmin 305. First, I've never been able to get the HRM strap (wear link) to work. I called customer service, but they felt it was because I never washed the strap after use. Supposedly, the salt from sweat builds up in the contacts, causing problems. However, mine never worked since new. I haven't bothered to wear it after the first 2 times.

Other than the HR, the whole thing was working great. Then, my first drop for about 5 minutes. The next ride, the power wasn't working. I replaced the batteries which helped until the next drop. I disconnected the power cords, and it worked again.

What I discovered was that the pertinent measurements for me were - time and distance. I'm a creature of habit, so I tend to ride the same route (21 miles) almost every time. Therefore, I find that time seems more helpful in tracking my progress. I haven't gotten used to following power, and since the HR isn't working anyway, I don't bother to upload any data to my computer. Plus, I haven't gotten any full readings anyway.

I know it's my own fault for not sending the wear link back, but then I'll have to send the head unit too, and I'll end up reinstalling my Garmin anyway. It's funny how I've been following this thread, and saw the frustration from some of the posters. Now I see how people might just get fed up after a while. I'll probably give it another chance. However, when I cut the zip ties holding the paddle, it'll be gone forever.

Digital P

Well that's what Polar like to call customer satisfaction.

I had more problems with the heart rate monitors from them and they never serviced them and always told me that the failure was by design or that it was due to the use of the product.

I now have a CS600 with power and it fails from time to time. So maybe I try one last time to get it right with them but I'm afraid that I will get the same answers as I had.
So next time for me it will be no more Polar product.........

As a customer I don't want to get the blame all the time for the failures in their products.

Very expensive for the service delivered and the follow up on warranty sucks.........

RHR38

Had couple of rainstorm rides in a row and ran out of teflon spray so I put some motorex wet lube. It made quite impressive grit must admit.. Did not cleaned it away that soon and all units work fine but numbers are too high.

If 5' 8 1/2" person weights 126 and rides 20 min testride (calm day, tableflat route w/ 1 turn back) averaging 24,2 mph with regular road setup (imitating tt-position on top of the handlebars) normal roadie clothing helmets aso and average power is like 371...?? It can't be.

Any ideas or toughts about grit in chain > how much it affects power readings? Must chain be 'dustfree' to get correct readings? Setup is ok I think; chain weighted w/ quality scale w/ quick lock included, chain lenght measured quick lock included, span lenght measured. Unit is lifted so chain is inside 1 inch, gearing is 46/39 and 14-25.

surista

Quick question - I recently picked up the CS600 w/Power W.I.N.D. Installation wasn't as bad as I had feared - but boy, could Polar have possibly made the Power unit red/green lLED any harder to see? I was only able to pick it up after turning all the lights off

Anyway - I'm not quite sure I have everything setup right, but everything seems right. My problem is similar to iPAQsRock - I get one quick red light when plugging in the battery pack. I get a green signal when the cadence magnet passes by the cadence notch. However, I do NOT see any red LED that apparently I'm supposed to see when the chain passes the chain sensor. The power training function completes fine, but the cadence training function does not - i get 'sensor not found' and 'try again?'. At first I thought the cadence magnet was the problem, but I get the green light perfectly as the magnet passes. Already made sure all settings etc. were completed in the CS600.

I'm stumped - any suggestions?

goodboyr

When I got mine, the chain speed sensor was defective. Had to call polar and they sent me a new one.

surista

Txs for the reply - I was wondering that myself, except that the computer unit says the power training was completed...although that does match the 'green light ok, red light doesn't come on' symptom of the chain sensor being DOA. Hmmm...

JohnMcP

If you've 'trained' the CS600 computer to recognise the power unit, then you don't need to train it for cadence. The cadence training is only necessary if you have the optional cadence sensor (i.e. no power unit, just separate speed and cadence sensors). If you have a power unit and the training has worked for this, then the CS600 will pick up both power and cadence signals from this unit.

McP

JohnMcP

My latest CS600 (Oh, I've had all the issues in the book!!) has survived a season on the winter/commute bike with all the water, gunk, dust etc that entails...I don't think additional material on the chain is likely to be affecting your data.

I know you've checked the vertical alignment of your setup but, just in case you haven't done so already, check the horizontal too...I think the power pick-up has an area around 2cm x 2cm just to the rear of the series of raised dots: the chain needs to pass ocer this in all gear combinations to get a strong signal. If the signal is not strong enough the computer will latch onto some other vibration and give you competely meaningless data. (i.e it won't be 'out'...it will be 'wrong').

McP