Sram Upgrade?

alfeng

... and tightly sprial wrap the last couple of inches toward the end of the cable (etc.) ...

rudycyclist

Couldn't you just turn the shifters to friction if you wanted to use Shimano bar end shifters? They should work just fine if you do that, however personally I hate using the friction setting on my TT bike. I like the indexed setup much more. It allows me to worry about my time rather than my shifting

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Lemond Tete De Course
-Sram Force
Trek T1

Solanog

What I do is that instead of cutting it with cutters I use the moto tool with a cutting will, the cut is very clean. After that I sharpen the end and it slides very easily into the sleeve.

dgregory57

I know before I even write this that I am going to sound like a jerk, but I will try hard not to, and hope you know I am trying not to be.

While I appreciate not over-consuming, I really wonder why someone upgrading to a full SRAM Red group would tinker to try to save the few dollars by not using new cables. If I were to go through the expense of buying SRAM Red, I would most certainly make sure I had the best cables money could buy as well...

I hope the group is all that you expect it to be.

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Peter Verdesi

When you're right you're right. The new Sram Red Group does deserve new cables and new cables it got. I was just wondering how to save the old cables that are pretty new so that I would not have to throw them away. I just got done putting the finishing touches on the bike in the basement. It's pretty sweet. I just had a quick question if anyone cares to answer; I put the new bar end shifters in and adjusted the derailers and everything works fine with the exception of the small cog on the cassette. It seem to be catching on the tooth that shifts to the next cog. Everything is new so I was wondering if the metal will, eventually, wear and the ticking will stop. I've never had Sram components before so I don't know if this is the norm or not.

alfeng

FWIW. If I understand your problem, one thing you can do is to remove the rear deraileur from the hanger, adjust the 'B'-screw/"knuckle" (NEVER DO THIS WITH THE DERAILLEUR MOUNTED ... which I think can only be accessed on SRAM's rear derailleurs from the backside, anyway) so that the parallelogram is slightly less horizontal thus giving the upper jockey wheel a little more clearance, re-install the derailleur.

kdelong

I have never had to adjust the B-Screw so this is something that I really don't know. What is the reason that you should not adjust it while mounted on the bike ?

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alfeng

Well, first of all, the derailleur's tensioning spring (inside the upper pivot) is actually pretty tightly coiled, so it is difficult to effectively turn the B-screw when the derailleur is attached to the frame (yes, I've tried it, once!) ...

That suggests that only BAD THINGS can subsequently happen ... including, potential damage to the screw's head if it is forced (if you're strong enough to turn the screw) ... and possibly/probably, some damage to the tab on the derailleur hanger, particularly (I presume) if it is alloy, as the tip of the screw attempts to grind into the hanger ...

It's like trying to adjust a front/rear derailleur's stops when the stop is pressing against the adjusting screw ... only a little harder. Of course, IMO, derailleur stops should generally NOT be adjusted when the stop is pressing against the adjusting screw -- it's easy enough to move the derailleur OFF the stop & turn the screw 1/4 turn, test, repeat as necessary ...

And, it's easy enough (if not significantly easier) to remove the derailleur from the hanger, turn the B-screw, re-mount the derailleur & test for clearance EVEN IF multiple repetitions are required.

BUT, if anyone out there wants to try to adjust their B-screw/"knuckle" while the rear derailleur is attached OR adjust their derailleurs' stops while the stop is pressing against the screw, well, I certainly can't stop them from trying ... but, why make the task more difficult than it has to be?